Sweden Baby and more
10 years ago
Thursday, September 8, 2011
Getting Psyched
Well, the season is just around the corner. My little man, Zun is growing and crying and keeping us up at nights, but that hasn't stopped the climbing from happening. Siemay has even gotten out for a session!
So much has gone down, so many new things. Joel Zerr and I went to May Lake in Tuolumne and did some amazing high alpine climbing on quartzite. We also visited the Camouflage Forest and added one of Tahoe's best new V9's: Army of Darkness. Joel is putting together a sick video and I will post it here soon.
Yesterday we hit Sugarpine 2 and did some FA's and repeated some amazing new classics:
Here's the FA by Kyle O'meara and some other classics with Red and Jimmy Haden:
also, here is a sick new one move power problem that I did called the Anniversary, probably a 9 or a 10... we'll need some repeats to tell for sure:
There are new amazing lines going up everywhere. Also, I just heard from Jesse Bonin that he is working on a 55 ft. V12 roof in Tuolumne!!!
Life is good, go out and get some!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard.
Noah as usual
Sunday, August 7, 2011
Mountain Beavers Video
From Red:
For a change of scenery, I went back to the Mtn. Beavers with Joel and Red to do some new stuff. Joel repeated the sit to Jarrad's amazing "Integrity" problem and Red did the stand. I mostly spectated and toured all morning as baby duty has me fairly sleep-deprived and ragged. I did "sack up" for the first descent of a sick highball proud widow-maker (see video.) Clay and Laura showed up for a minute and did some moderate lines. Clay also tried and looked great on Integrity. Joel also hiked and found a futuristic squeeze line that needs cleaning.
By afternoon, however, it was a different story for me; psych was high and I was ready to do some new things.
The first new line I did I named "varigation" after the multi-colored, spotted wall that it's on just to the left of Integrity. It's a fun v5 move to a cool top-out. It's hard for V5, but it can't be harder, can it?! None of us flashed it, and Red didn't even do it. Anyway, You tell me.
The second new line I did was super rad. "Cat Reflexic" V7. This line opens with double left hand campusing out an overhang buldge with a bad right crimp and a huge left jug. There are no feet. The landing is not good and might necessitate ninja-ing the landing... You have to land like a cat. That being said, I did not feel the actual climbing was that hard, maybe hard V7. It would be good to get consensus on both these lines, as usual.
Both these new lines are in Red's video above. I tried to imagine the grades as they would feel in good conditions, though they both felt 2 grades harder in 80 degree weather on slopers.
I look forward to Jarrad, Jesse and David O returning from their May Lake trip for a report and to open some new lines at this stellar new area.
BTW, here is some beta on the Future Boulder (near the saddle) from our close friends at BETABASE.
Zun is doing well adjusting to home-life, he is nursing well and he actually let us sleep for 4 hours straight this morning!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
For a change of scenery, I went back to the Mtn. Beavers with Joel and Red to do some new stuff. Joel repeated the sit to Jarrad's amazing "Integrity" problem and Red did the stand. I mostly spectated and toured all morning as baby duty has me fairly sleep-deprived and ragged. I did "sack up" for the first descent of a sick highball proud widow-maker (see video.) Clay and Laura showed up for a minute and did some moderate lines. Clay also tried and looked great on Integrity. Joel also hiked and found a futuristic squeeze line that needs cleaning.
By afternoon, however, it was a different story for me; psych was high and I was ready to do some new things.
The first new line I did I named "varigation" after the multi-colored, spotted wall that it's on just to the left of Integrity. It's a fun v5 move to a cool top-out. It's hard for V5, but it can't be harder, can it?! None of us flashed it, and Red didn't even do it. Anyway, You tell me.
The second new line I did was super rad. "Cat Reflexic" V7. This line opens with double left hand campusing out an overhang buldge with a bad right crimp and a huge left jug. There are no feet. The landing is not good and might necessitate ninja-ing the landing... You have to land like a cat. That being said, I did not feel the actual climbing was that hard, maybe hard V7. It would be good to get consensus on both these lines, as usual.
Both these new lines are in Red's video above. I tried to imagine the grades as they would feel in good conditions, though they both felt 2 grades harder in 80 degree weather on slopers.
I look forward to Jarrad, Jesse and David O returning from their May Lake trip for a report and to open some new lines at this stellar new area.
BTW, here is some beta on the Future Boulder (near the saddle) from our close friends at BETABASE.
Zun is doing well adjusting to home-life, he is nursing well and he actually let us sleep for 4 hours straight this morning!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Friday, August 5, 2011
Pool Service V5 & a new South shore zone...
Here's a sweet new Jesse Bonin video detailing some spring/summer fun on classic Tahoe moderates:
The first problem showcased is a sweet line I put up a couple seasons ago at Eratica. Called "Pool Service" in honor of Big Dave Nunley, God Dammit. dave found it and got me psyched on it. I called it V5, but it may be harder actually. It's all about sloper control, and it's a great line, indeed.
The other problems are also sweet and should be done if you are here for a while or are looking for sweet lines in the more moderate range.
In other news, there is a sick new area in south lake that Jarrad Wycoff discovered. He and Jesse have been picking plums and doing trail work while I've been up doing new stuff on the North Shore. It's hot everywhere and the skeeters are horrible this year. that being said, everyone is PSYCHED and the crew is in the best summer-shape ever. Fall should be epic. special mention about Jarrad Wycoff: Jarrad done got STRONG! He also just put up a 5 star line at his new area, the Moutain Beavers. This new line, called "Integrity" V7 stand, 9 sit, is the best compression line I have seen since Pine Box, V11 in Yosemite. Great job, Jarrad! ...Animal.
This new area reminds me of Sugarpine area 1. supposedly there are 4 areas though, and I've only seen one. I'll try to get some pics and video ASAP. Jesse, David O, Jarrad and others are going down to Yosemite to May Lake to check out some Matt Arnold goodness this weekend. Jesse and D.O. are gearing up for an extended 10 month road trip, and they are super stoked.
Zun is home now and has much to learn. His ninja training has begun though!
Get out there and destroy!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Tahoe Moderates from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.
The first problem showcased is a sweet line I put up a couple seasons ago at Eratica. Called "Pool Service" in honor of Big Dave Nunley, God Dammit. dave found it and got me psyched on it. I called it V5, but it may be harder actually. It's all about sloper control, and it's a great line, indeed.
The other problems are also sweet and should be done if you are here for a while or are looking for sweet lines in the more moderate range.
In other news, there is a sick new area in south lake that Jarrad Wycoff discovered. He and Jesse have been picking plums and doing trail work while I've been up doing new stuff on the North Shore. It's hot everywhere and the skeeters are horrible this year. that being said, everyone is PSYCHED and the crew is in the best summer-shape ever. Fall should be epic. special mention about Jarrad Wycoff: Jarrad done got STRONG! He also just put up a 5 star line at his new area, the Moutain Beavers. This new line, called "Integrity" V7 stand, 9 sit, is the best compression line I have seen since Pine Box, V11 in Yosemite. Great job, Jarrad! ...Animal.
This new area reminds me of Sugarpine area 1. supposedly there are 4 areas though, and I've only seen one. I'll try to get some pics and video ASAP. Jesse, David O, Jarrad and others are going down to Yosemite to May Lake to check out some Matt Arnold goodness this weekend. Jesse and D.O. are gearing up for an extended 10 month road trip, and they are super stoked.
Zun is home now and has much to learn. His ninja training has begun though!
Get out there and destroy!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Wednesday, August 3, 2011
Zun Lee Kaufman
Boom.
Welcome little man! Time to work on crimp strength...
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Welcome little man! Time to work on crimp strength...
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Monday, August 1, 2011
Sky
My friend Ethan has done "Sky" V14, This is the image above that is the background for the title of this blog. Here is the video and then some background:
...The first year we went to Rocklands, Our friends Cody Roth and his friend Bernie ran me around the newly developed "Austrian Sector" currently known as Klienfontaine. He showed me the uber projects that their crew had been getting close on, namely, "Sky" (As Bernie named it,) and the cracked egg project, an amazing V11 that I opened the following season and named "The Hatchling."
These problems are two of the finest in the world. Period. We originally tried Sky as a straight up massive dyno, and Bernie and I independently felt it was V12 from the stand and we both tried the huge dyno method as depicted on the main intro photo on this blogsite. We got close, but no cigar.
The next season I came back stronger and took Daniel and Paul there right away. The race was on! Those guys did the stand after some effort, Paul after a few days, Daniel did they FA of the stand 3rd go and then the sit a few days later. I kept trying the long dyno method since I felt that would fit me better and since I did not feel strong enough to gymnastically grab the left open hand hold as Ethan does in this video.
After Sky went down, Paul and I happened to be at the Hatchling proj giving it goes. Paul was 4th day on with terrible skin and I somehow snaked the FA from him.
...Like that'll ever happen again! Look at this beautiful line:
Noah Kaufman's The Hatchling (V11). Photo by Zlu Haller / www.chalkjunkie.at
Congratulations to Ethan for strong work on one of the best problems in the world. I will train diligently to do it when I return to South Africa, however, the sad truth is that Sky may exceed my personal limit.
...But maybe if I try hard enough...
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Sky V14 from Ethan Pringle on Vimeo.
...The first year we went to Rocklands, Our friends Cody Roth and his friend Bernie ran me around the newly developed "Austrian Sector" currently known as Klienfontaine. He showed me the uber projects that their crew had been getting close on, namely, "Sky" (As Bernie named it,) and the cracked egg project, an amazing V11 that I opened the following season and named "The Hatchling."
These problems are two of the finest in the world. Period. We originally tried Sky as a straight up massive dyno, and Bernie and I independently felt it was V12 from the stand and we both tried the huge dyno method as depicted on the main intro photo on this blogsite. We got close, but no cigar.
The next season I came back stronger and took Daniel and Paul there right away. The race was on! Those guys did the stand after some effort, Paul after a few days, Daniel did they FA of the stand 3rd go and then the sit a few days later. I kept trying the long dyno method since I felt that would fit me better and since I did not feel strong enough to gymnastically grab the left open hand hold as Ethan does in this video.
After Sky went down, Paul and I happened to be at the Hatchling proj giving it goes. Paul was 4th day on with terrible skin and I somehow snaked the FA from him.
...Like that'll ever happen again! Look at this beautiful line:
Noah Kaufman's The Hatchling (V11). Photo by Zlu Haller / www.chalkjunkie.at
Congratulations to Ethan for strong work on one of the best problems in the world. I will train diligently to do it when I return to South Africa, however, the sad truth is that Sky may exceed my personal limit.
...But maybe if I try hard enough...
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Sunday, July 31, 2011
Isaac Palatt
I'd like to share a great blog about Black Mountian bouldering and more from a friend I met in Squamish in 2006, Isaac Palatt. I really get psyched reading his blog, and it affords ample material for serious motivation! Check it out: Isaac's Blog
In Tahoe news, We had a fun day in hot temps up at the "Hole in the Ground" area. Joel put up another sweet line on the "Joelder" at the Danger Zone area. About V8ish. I warmed up on "Soul Glow stand and re-opened my split tip. together with warm temps, White Stallion did not go, though I did the moves for Joel's new FLIP video recorder (a sweet gift from Chris Schulte and Jackie Hueftle!)
Visiting climbers Chris Schulte and Jackie Hueftle joined the crew for the day, but sadly, had to deal with gnar temps. Eventually, we had to go to the Saddle. Joel, Chris, Red and David O and I all seshed down on the HUGE dyno. An amazing amazing dyno that I think Sharma did first(?) I have done this throw like 10 times, but have never walked up and done it first try. Today was no exception, however, after 3-4 tries, Joel and I had repeated the massive move. Chris, new to the line, threw himself again and again, tenaciously and finally stuck the jug. We all think it's about V9.
Jackie took some video, so I'll link it when she edits...
Waiting for the baby and the split tip to heal. I think we will be setting up some rad water slacklines at some secret coves up at the lake. I can't wait to walk a big water line up there in this heat!
...Carry on.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
In Tahoe news, We had a fun day in hot temps up at the "Hole in the Ground" area. Joel put up another sweet line on the "Joelder" at the Danger Zone area. About V8ish. I warmed up on "Soul Glow stand and re-opened my split tip. together with warm temps, White Stallion did not go, though I did the moves for Joel's new FLIP video recorder (a sweet gift from Chris Schulte and Jackie Hueftle!)
Visiting climbers Chris Schulte and Jackie Hueftle joined the crew for the day, but sadly, had to deal with gnar temps. Eventually, we had to go to the Saddle. Joel, Chris, Red and David O and I all seshed down on the HUGE dyno. An amazing amazing dyno that I think Sharma did first(?) I have done this throw like 10 times, but have never walked up and done it first try. Today was no exception, however, after 3-4 tries, Joel and I had repeated the massive move. Chris, new to the line, threw himself again and again, tenaciously and finally stuck the jug. We all think it's about V9.
Jackie took some video, so I'll link it when she edits...
Waiting for the baby and the split tip to heal. I think we will be setting up some rad water slacklines at some secret coves up at the lake. I can't wait to walk a big water line up there in this heat!
...Carry on.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Saturday, July 30, 2011
Soul Glow V10
It's not every day that "The best problem in Tahoe" goes up, so I am psyched to report that it recently happened (again.) This Joel Zerr problem is MEGA. The stand at V5 is Proud a hell and 4 stars. The sit, that Joel and I have done, is V10 and is one of the coolest lines I have ever done. It's basically like "White Lines" on steroids. I thought it was a bit easier, perhaps V9 for tall climbers as I was able to skip a hard move. The climb is sustained though, and climbs brilliantly. Here is Red's video of the line:
There is also a left variation that is just as cool and hard, but slightly less aesthetic. It is called "White Stallion" V10 and I will do it tomorrow. It shares the first 2 moves and then busts into a v9 power sequence with an amazing exit!
GOOD JOB JOEL! ...Such a rad contribution.
This climbing is at a rediscovered old area at the Soda Springs exit past Boreal on Hwy 80. Mucho Kudos to Paul Otis for bringing new life to this area and opening some radical lines. Paul has a keen eye and cleaned "White Stallion" V10. Solo and without pads though, Paul left the line a project. Paul was nice enough to share his findings, some of the best rock/lines in Tahoe with the rest of us and we went and repeated/opened some great great problems!
Red (Jon Thompson) took an incredible fall in this video. It's hard to really tell how genuinely sketchy it was. I was spotting him and I may have saved his life, a send for me that was just as cool as the amazing problem from which Red fell (Soul Glow.)
Jimmy Haden put up an incredible V6 called "The Green Machine" that is techy as hell. Dave Ficter and I got bouted in the sun, though we did all the moves easily enough. ...The same thing happened on an unrepeated T.O.M. Fern face V8 just to the Right of Joel's immaculate "Soul Glow."
There is plenty more to do at this newold area. Tai and Fern walked us a 1/2 mile into desolation, bushwhacking, to see an amazing tall and proud line that will likely be v11.
So much good rock!
Siemay is 38 weeks, so our little man is coming any day now. We have a little tent for him so the skeeters and sun don't get him while mom & dad climb.
This will be a whole new boulder problem, one that I look forward too immensely!
...Wish us luck...
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
There is also a left variation that is just as cool and hard, but slightly less aesthetic. It is called "White Stallion" V10 and I will do it tomorrow. It shares the first 2 moves and then busts into a v9 power sequence with an amazing exit!
GOOD JOB JOEL! ...Such a rad contribution.
This climbing is at a rediscovered old area at the Soda Springs exit past Boreal on Hwy 80. Mucho Kudos to Paul Otis for bringing new life to this area and opening some radical lines. Paul has a keen eye and cleaned "White Stallion" V10. Solo and without pads though, Paul left the line a project. Paul was nice enough to share his findings, some of the best rock/lines in Tahoe with the rest of us and we went and repeated/opened some great great problems!
Red (Jon Thompson) took an incredible fall in this video. It's hard to really tell how genuinely sketchy it was. I was spotting him and I may have saved his life, a send for me that was just as cool as the amazing problem from which Red fell (Soul Glow.)
Jimmy Haden put up an incredible V6 called "The Green Machine" that is techy as hell. Dave Ficter and I got bouted in the sun, though we did all the moves easily enough. ...The same thing happened on an unrepeated T.O.M. Fern face V8 just to the Right of Joel's immaculate "Soul Glow."
There is plenty more to do at this newold area. Tai and Fern walked us a 1/2 mile into desolation, bushwhacking, to see an amazing tall and proud line that will likely be v11.
So much good rock!
Siemay is 38 weeks, so our little man is coming any day now. We have a little tent for him so the skeeters and sun don't get him while mom & dad climb.
This will be a whole new boulder problem, one that I look forward too immensely!
...Wish us luck...
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Saturday, July 23, 2011
High Priority & Focal Point
Despite the heat and mosquitos in Tahoe, the scene is bumping. Sugarpine has been seeing a lot of action lately. Here is another video from Jon "Red" Thompson (who I just sewed up in my kitchen... RECKLESS.) It details some Sugar classics High Priority V7 and Focal Point V9 (or 8 and 10 depending on who you ask.) Here it is:
New problems:
I did "Focal Point," formerly the "Beastiality" project. This is the amazing "epic project" compression line in Jon's video above. The line is so rad, hat-tip to Matt, Sandy and Bayes Wilder for the psych to get me up the thing in the heat and sun (This is why I'm hesitant to grade it V10, although it bouted many a suitor and it was my 3rd day on it... Consensus is needed!) Special shout to Red for the vision, the heart, the cleaning and the sharing of this extraordinary line.
Matt Wilder finished off the long-standing "Beast" seam project 2nd try. The Beast weighs in at a tentative V8.
I added the direct to "Fortress" bumping the grade to V7, it's called "superfly."
Charlie Barret added "Sneak Attack" V8 (also in the vid, new beta post hold break.)
I added a problem to the Fortress boulder start on fortress underclings and went left = V7, it's called "Butthurt" to commemorate a summer of misery and pain.
Jimmy Hayden added "First Go" an amazing dihedral dyno (or static as Jimmy did it) at Sugar 2.
Also, there is a sick new area up North! Really cool, kind of a rediscovered old area near Castle Peaks. Kudos to Paul Otis for putting up some of Tahoe's best problems here. Joel Zerr just put up THE BEST Highball V5 IN TAHOE, and is about to double the difficulty and number of moves by adding a totally classic sit start. This Line is AMAZING. Joel, Ficter and myself have done all the moves on this instant classic.
Also worth noting is Vitaly's new lines in South Lake. An amazing new V11 highball across from Blitzen! Sick!
I'm feeling strong now. Just in time for our little baby boy!!! He's due any day now and Siemay and I are Psyched!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
New problems:
I did "Focal Point," formerly the "Beastiality" project. This is the amazing "epic project" compression line in Jon's video above. The line is so rad, hat-tip to Matt, Sandy and Bayes Wilder for the psych to get me up the thing in the heat and sun (This is why I'm hesitant to grade it V10, although it bouted many a suitor and it was my 3rd day on it... Consensus is needed!) Special shout to Red for the vision, the heart, the cleaning and the sharing of this extraordinary line.
Matt Wilder finished off the long-standing "Beast" seam project 2nd try. The Beast weighs in at a tentative V8.
I added the direct to "Fortress" bumping the grade to V7, it's called "superfly."
Charlie Barret added "Sneak Attack" V8 (also in the vid, new beta post hold break.)
I added a problem to the Fortress boulder start on fortress underclings and went left = V7, it's called "Butthurt" to commemorate a summer of misery and pain.
Jimmy Hayden added "First Go" an amazing dihedral dyno (or static as Jimmy did it) at Sugar 2.
Also, there is a sick new area up North! Really cool, kind of a rediscovered old area near Castle Peaks. Kudos to Paul Otis for putting up some of Tahoe's best problems here. Joel Zerr just put up THE BEST Highball V5 IN TAHOE, and is about to double the difficulty and number of moves by adding a totally classic sit start. This Line is AMAZING. Joel, Ficter and myself have done all the moves on this instant classic.
Also worth noting is Vitaly's new lines in South Lake. An amazing new V11 highball across from Blitzen! Sick!
I'm feeling strong now. Just in time for our little baby boy!!! He's due any day now and Siemay and I are Psyched!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Friday, July 8, 2011
Red
We got a new playuh on da scene!
Jon "Red" Thompson is only two years into his climbing career, but he is CRUSHING!
He's a good guy to have on the team and has re-invigorated the scene!!! here's a dope video he made chronicling his recent climbing endeavors, and first V8 ascents... Enjoy!
See you out at the boulders!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Jon "Red" Thompson is only two years into his climbing career, but he is CRUSHING!
He's a good guy to have on the team and has re-invigorated the scene!!! here's a dope video he made chronicling his recent climbing endeavors, and first V8 ascents... Enjoy!
See you out at the boulders!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Thursday, June 16, 2011
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Motivation Photos - an addendum to the last post.
A big Crew at South Bliss attacks "Pure Bliss" V9, an Amazing, amazing compression arete. One of the true South Lake Tahoe Classics! After numerous days of effort by many strong local climbers, and with the beta super subtle and elusive, I roped down the thing, sussed it and bagged the FA. Jimmy Haden used the discovered beta later the same day to get the Second Ascent of this tall fun line. If you visit Tahoe to climb, you should put this one on the list.
Right next to "Pure Bliss" is an amazing tall and proud 5.12 (V4) near-solo called "Ignorance is Bliss." D Grif put this line up after top-rope rehersal. Jimmy Haden and I did quick ascents shortly after. We all agreed that it is also a perfect line on bullet stone.
Julie Otis enters the crux of "Pure Bliss."
Joel Zerr makes the first Flash of David Outcalt's fun compression line, "Foxy Lady" V8.
Siemay and lil Bruce going big on an easy line at a cool new Jay Sell spot in Nevada.
Noah Kaufman on a sweet super-hard project at the new spot. Development is underway at this cool area.
Videos to come!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
PURE BLISS
It started getting hot in Tahoe.
Ughh. Time to do some routes... Siemay and I will be checking out Mill Creek Cyn in Utah for the first time. I've been hearing great things for years.
Around Tahoe, recent news is mostly around Bliss. Many a new line is going up and there are a few standout lines that are actually amazing 4 star lines! One such line is called "Pure Bliss." I will have a sick video up soon of Jimmy Haden doing the 2nd ascent of this mega line. This line is a Tahoe classic and one of the most aesthetic lines I have seen in a long time. I somehow managed the FA of this bad-boy. Another Sick Line is the "Houdini Roof," a D-griff, Jimmy Haden special. Imagine V8 overhanging crack to dihedral weirdness with recondite beta. I really need to try this thing... It looks amazing.
Video/photos to come.
QUICK HITS:
The assassins from the Bay came to town for a quick day-trip to dispatch:
Paul Barraza: Ground control v11, blitzenator v9, pure bliss v9, ignorance is bliss v4 highball
Lyn Verinsky: ignorance is bliss, getting close on pure bliss and looking strong!
Scott Chandler: blitzenator, pure bliss, ignorance is bliss, GC stand v5
Tim Medina: pure bliss, ignorance is bliss, GC stand
wow.
Joel Zerr and I repeated Higher Ground, an amazing Mike Newton (sp?) problem. Originally called v7 by Mike, out-of-towners thought it was more like v10. Joel and I thought about v7 or 8 after a quick few-go-each send sesh. sooooo good and technical!!!
...Newton and David Outcalt did Nubian Gods V9 on the job's peak boulder.
...2 new lines on the Ronin: "Seven Samurai" V9 dyno, "Eight Samurai" V7 to the right (with a sick potential V10/11 sit.) These lines are between year of the rat and secret weapon stand. My FA's. Joel did the "seven Samurai" right after me. Both of us are working the "Ronin" project which is likely V12 or 13 and is SO F__KING COOL. I will likely take Charlie to it this week. Despite Jesse, mine and Joel's attempts for a combined 8 days, the first move still has not gone down (although we are all close.) It feels like the Shosholoza move, only harder. It's almost exactly like the thunderbird v11 jump move on the peabodies in the b-milks. ...only harder. but it goes!! Just need to try a little harder, I guess.
...Red (John Thomas) of the North did Foxy Lady for his first V8 quickly and is super close to "Secret Weapon" V10 after 5 days of effort!!! Go Red! Skipping V9! He is also close to "Pure Bliss," so he may go in order afterall.
Dave Ficter put up a super proud FA at Bliss called the "Panacea" V7. The sit will be a cool 10. The problem could kill you though. Paul Otis and I have started working the overhang near "Pure Bliss." This will be another v11 or 12 and really cool moves, steep with techy feet.
Jesse Bonin strikes again with a send of "Avoid The Wart" V9 (yes, that's the name) at the Beavers. I did this Jarrad Wycoff problem as an FA last season. It is a really cool line. Jesse's beta, as usual, was insane. Joel also did this line.
Look for the Pure Bliss video in the coming days.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Ughh. Time to do some routes... Siemay and I will be checking out Mill Creek Cyn in Utah for the first time. I've been hearing great things for years.
Around Tahoe, recent news is mostly around Bliss. Many a new line is going up and there are a few standout lines that are actually amazing 4 star lines! One such line is called "Pure Bliss." I will have a sick video up soon of Jimmy Haden doing the 2nd ascent of this mega line. This line is a Tahoe classic and one of the most aesthetic lines I have seen in a long time. I somehow managed the FA of this bad-boy. Another Sick Line is the "Houdini Roof," a D-griff, Jimmy Haden special. Imagine V8 overhanging crack to dihedral weirdness with recondite beta. I really need to try this thing... It looks amazing.
Video/photos to come.
QUICK HITS:
The assassins from the Bay came to town for a quick day-trip to dispatch:
Paul Barraza: Ground control v11, blitzenator v9, pure bliss v9, ignorance is bliss v4 highball
Lyn Verinsky: ignorance is bliss, getting close on pure bliss and looking strong!
Scott Chandler: blitzenator, pure bliss, ignorance is bliss, GC stand v5
Tim Medina: pure bliss, ignorance is bliss, GC stand
wow.
Joel Zerr and I repeated Higher Ground, an amazing Mike Newton (sp?) problem. Originally called v7 by Mike, out-of-towners thought it was more like v10. Joel and I thought about v7 or 8 after a quick few-go-each send sesh. sooooo good and technical!!!
...Newton and David Outcalt did Nubian Gods V9 on the job's peak boulder.
...2 new lines on the Ronin: "Seven Samurai" V9 dyno, "Eight Samurai" V7 to the right (with a sick potential V10/11 sit.) These lines are between year of the rat and secret weapon stand. My FA's. Joel did the "seven Samurai" right after me. Both of us are working the "Ronin" project which is likely V12 or 13 and is SO F__KING COOL. I will likely take Charlie to it this week. Despite Jesse, mine and Joel's attempts for a combined 8 days, the first move still has not gone down (although we are all close.) It feels like the Shosholoza move, only harder. It's almost exactly like the thunderbird v11 jump move on the peabodies in the b-milks. ...only harder. but it goes!! Just need to try a little harder, I guess.
...Red (John Thomas) of the North did Foxy Lady for his first V8 quickly and is super close to "Secret Weapon" V10 after 5 days of effort!!! Go Red! Skipping V9! He is also close to "Pure Bliss," so he may go in order afterall.
Dave Ficter put up a super proud FA at Bliss called the "Panacea" V7. The sit will be a cool 10. The problem could kill you though. Paul Otis and I have started working the overhang near "Pure Bliss." This will be another v11 or 12 and really cool moves, steep with techy feet.
Jesse Bonin strikes again with a send of "Avoid The Wart" V9 (yes, that's the name) at the Beavers. I did this Jarrad Wycoff problem as an FA last season. It is a really cool line. Jesse's beta, as usual, was insane. Joel also did this line.
Look for the Pure Bliss video in the coming days.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
New Joe's Valley Guide
Bouldering in Joe's by Isaac Caldiero is a sweet new guidebook that has been sorely needed. I just bought this guide and it is excellent. Nice photos, accurate descriptions and ratings, and great beta on "how to get there."
I highly reccommend this guidebook! Hat tip to Isaac; nice job, bub!
Shibidaang!
www.joesvalleyguidebook.com
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Tuesday, May 3, 2011
The Secret Weapon...
It has been an inspiring month!
Siemay is busy incubating now. She is 6 months! Our baby boy spent this last weekend floating up (literally) many Owen's River Gorge 5.10's and 11's. FIUA's (First in utero ascents!) Siemay is feeling well and is still letting me climb a bunch.
Since returning to Tahoe, I have started lifting weights. Sore elbows from Font encouraged me to join a gym and get other forms of workout until my elbows healed.
The result? I now weigh 192! But, with like 2 hours of cardio a day, it's mostly muscle.
This has actually translated surprisingly well to my climbing. I am much stronger now than I have been for maybe 10 years. With this new strength, I have been putting old projects to rest with good friends.
The Tahoe scene is bumping. North shore possies are going up to Doyle and gettin' shit done, and the snow is melting quickly in Tahoe... Today I hiked through snow in flip-flops to send Jesse Bonin's world class "Future Present." Perfect compression. I did the moves on the low start, "Welcome to the Future," and I will be back to send ASAP. Jesse did like 4 laps on the low start V11 or 12 depending on who you ask. That is sick either way. I love this problem even though nobody can agreen on the grade. The stand start, originally done as a jump start by Jesse was called V11. But now, most people (who are taller than Jesse) start standing without an epic jump and the grade has come down a bit. The sit is hard for all and is agreed to be a 3 star V11 or 12.
Here's a video of ICB doing "Welcome to the future." (Problem is at 3:06 mins.)
The psych is high around here for sure. In fact, Jesse got a sick new camera and has upped his editing and filming game! Here's his latest:
Congrats to Joel Zerr who completed the 3rd ascent of "Ground Control!" Joel had a sick flash attempt. This problem took me 5 days in less than ideal conditions and I felt solid V11. However, FA's always feel harder, and although neither Zerr nor Savage downrated this problem, I wonder if it will settle in at V10? Doesn't matter much, I guess. Come try and let me know! It's a sick line anyway. The problem that I do in this video is called "Secret Weapon." Jesse did this one last year and it is mega. A total Tahoe classic. Climbs like Hueco! This line is on the Ronin boulder; home to many sick lines of all grades and one undone super project. "Secret Weapon" and "Double Dragon" were both called V11 by Jesse. DD is a more direct exit to SW, but a more powerful move. SW is pumpy with no move really harder than V8. The first day I got on it, I thought it would go down super quick, however, it is PUMPY with many hard consistent moves. Felt like 13d to me.
Anyhow, if you are passing through, you should do this one too!
Soon, many of our dopest spots will be good to go. I have the go ahead to drive up to some amazing boulders in Tahoe on a road unaccessible until now (I finally have the connections!) We have several new areas in the works for this season, and of course, there is Sugar Pine, the truly best spot that we are all looking forward to another season of FA's! Sugar Pine has over 700 problems now on really nice granite. Logistics are tough though... you need a mtn. bike or 4x4 and a full day. many areas with a serious approach.
GET MOTIVATED! TRY HARD! THIS IS THE YEAR TO CRUSH!!!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Siemay is busy incubating now. She is 6 months! Our baby boy spent this last weekend floating up (literally) many Owen's River Gorge 5.10's and 11's. FIUA's (First in utero ascents!) Siemay is feeling well and is still letting me climb a bunch.
Since returning to Tahoe, I have started lifting weights. Sore elbows from Font encouraged me to join a gym and get other forms of workout until my elbows healed.
The result? I now weigh 192! But, with like 2 hours of cardio a day, it's mostly muscle.
This has actually translated surprisingly well to my climbing. I am much stronger now than I have been for maybe 10 years. With this new strength, I have been putting old projects to rest with good friends.
The Tahoe scene is bumping. North shore possies are going up to Doyle and gettin' shit done, and the snow is melting quickly in Tahoe... Today I hiked through snow in flip-flops to send Jesse Bonin's world class "Future Present." Perfect compression. I did the moves on the low start, "Welcome to the Future," and I will be back to send ASAP. Jesse did like 4 laps on the low start V11 or 12 depending on who you ask. That is sick either way. I love this problem even though nobody can agreen on the grade. The stand start, originally done as a jump start by Jesse was called V11. But now, most people (who are taller than Jesse) start standing without an epic jump and the grade has come down a bit. The sit is hard for all and is agreed to be a 3 star V11 or 12.
Here's a video of ICB doing "Welcome to the future." (Problem is at 3:06 mins.)
Winter Visitors from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.
The psych is high around here for sure. In fact, Jesse got a sick new camera and has upped his editing and filming game! Here's his latest:
Early Spring Sending from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.
Congrats to Joel Zerr who completed the 3rd ascent of "Ground Control!" Joel had a sick flash attempt. This problem took me 5 days in less than ideal conditions and I felt solid V11. However, FA's always feel harder, and although neither Zerr nor Savage downrated this problem, I wonder if it will settle in at V10? Doesn't matter much, I guess. Come try and let me know! It's a sick line anyway. The problem that I do in this video is called "Secret Weapon." Jesse did this one last year and it is mega. A total Tahoe classic. Climbs like Hueco! This line is on the Ronin boulder; home to many sick lines of all grades and one undone super project. "Secret Weapon" and "Double Dragon" were both called V11 by Jesse. DD is a more direct exit to SW, but a more powerful move. SW is pumpy with no move really harder than V8. The first day I got on it, I thought it would go down super quick, however, it is PUMPY with many hard consistent moves. Felt like 13d to me.
Anyhow, if you are passing through, you should do this one too!
Soon, many of our dopest spots will be good to go. I have the go ahead to drive up to some amazing boulders in Tahoe on a road unaccessible until now (I finally have the connections!) We have several new areas in the works for this season, and of course, there is Sugar Pine, the truly best spot that we are all looking forward to another season of FA's! Sugar Pine has over 700 problems now on really nice granite. Logistics are tough though... you need a mtn. bike or 4x4 and a full day. many areas with a serious approach.
GET MOTIVATED! TRY HARD! THIS IS THE YEAR TO CRUSH!!!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Thursday, March 24, 2011
More Font Media
Here are some more pitures and a video of some of the good times we had this year. 1 month in font is like 1 day at the Louvre. NOT ENOUGH!!!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Tuesday, March 22, 2011
The Boulders of Fontainebleau
Magic.
I guess that's the only way to describe the beautiful forest of France. With arguably the finest bouldering in the world--if not by aesthetic, surely by sheer fun factor--Font is a must-climb-at spot for the modern climbing aficionado.
Here are some videos as evidence!
Your author on a sweet sweet line:
and Kevin, a super cool local on a classic near the Elephant area...
and one of the best problems on the planet; Justin Alarcon enjoys the Misericorde:
I last visited this enchanted bouldering area 9 years ago with my close friend, Forrest King. We had a blast, but I never returned since there were so many other areas to travel to in the world. Additionally, I remember daily rain and inclement weather stymied our climbing ambitions. Despite the obstacles, I managed to do some amazing climbs back then including the archetypal dyno, "Hale Bopp," and "l'aerodynamie."
This trip was a get-back-in-shape for me trip and a scope-it-out trip pour ma femme. Siemay was 16-18 weeks pregnant during the trip and she managed to climb harder and harder throughout the trip! We were with many good friends from the Bay, spending most our time with Scott, Monica and Justin who lived down the street from us. Our close friend, Rich Meredick stayed with us in our gite (small rental home/apt.) in Larchant, a small town Southwest of the city of Font(ainebleau.)
We also hung/climbed with other (North) Americans during our stay: Randy and Beth, Inger and Nora, Tim Doyle and Matt Lucas... Paul Robinson, Chris Schulte & Jackie Hueftle, Rob Guinn, Justin Wood and Pace, Walker Kearny and Lina and friends... Also we climbed and partied with Ethan Pringle and one of my closest friends, Matt Wilder. Quite a crew of rad people!
And how could I forget our French friends... new and old. David Labrosse joined us in our gite until Siemay left for home, and Miki, Pierre, Ben from Lyon also got psyched to join in the fun!
I also had the opportunity to befriend an amazing family. The two sons, Gregoire and Kevin and their legendary father, Allaine. (I am sure I am butchering the spelling of their names.) The Thibaults are such cool people. Extremely motivated and friendly and crazy and hilarious, with super cute girlfriends to boot! Kevin spots me in the first video above and he climbs a fabulous problem called "irreversible" in the next video. Thanks to Scott Chandler for awesome videos and psyche.
I can honestly say that I had so much fun hanging out and climbing with these two brothers and their father that even when we were rained out, we were all psyched, just being together under a boulder roof in the pouring rain sharing good times. ...Verily, life is about who we meet along the way!
Font is amazing. The weather can suck, and the condoms and feces behind some of the blocs of Bas Cuvier are revolting. The thing is, the climbing is unbelievable. Imagine climbing the most perfect problems with inspiring movement and crazy holds. Climbing the impossible happens frequently. The holds are ergo and comfy, you probably will not bleed in Font (unlike Hueco, Buttermilks, etc.) Also, like Horse Pens, the volume is staggering. ...Over 20,000 problems in the forest currently spread out over 150 different areas! Every style of climbing is represented in a fairly even distribution, but the slopers, ahhh the slopers!!! Potential as well, there will be twice as many problems some day and every year classics are discovered and opened.
Except for a really cool dyno called "Rainbow Rocket" (I said cool dyno, not cool name) I never went back to a problem more than one day, and no, I did not do the 8a dyno...
Some Notable sends/moments:
Rich Meredick - "Duroxamanie"
Matt Wilder - "Megalithe" Flash
Tim Doyle - "Vague Patatras"
Monica Andrada - "La Marie Rose"
Nora - "Le Egoiste"
Justin Alarcon - "Misericorde," "La Mandarin," "Super Prestat"
Scott Chandler - "Irreversible," "Opium," "La Gaulle," "Cent Pof" "Megawatt" "Noir Desire" etc...
Inger - "L'Etrave" Flash
Me - "Instinct"
Siemay - Many hard climbs with Bruce on board!
Randy and Beth - Volume and bunk toe sending! Randy was SUPER close on several 8a-8b sick hard climbs and Beth was still able to destroy despite a foot injury. Proud.
David Labrosse - "Rataplat"
Paul Robinson - everything he touched.
Nalle - see Paul's and "Tigre et Dragon"
Jackie - "Apartenance"
Chris - "Rainbow Rocket" and sick close to the "Big Island" 8c badness
Kevin - "synapse" "Partage" (first go after weighted moves/beta)
Ughhh... So many more
Rockland's aesthetics, but the movement and rock quality, accessibility and fun factor make for the ultimate area.
Did I mention the Bread, the wine, and the daily scrumptious pastries???
Basically, you have to go.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
I guess that's the only way to describe the beautiful forest of France. With arguably the finest bouldering in the world--if not by aesthetic, surely by sheer fun factor--Font is a must-climb-at spot for the modern climbing aficionado.
Here are some videos as evidence!
Your author on a sweet sweet line:
Instinct from scott chandler on Vimeo.
and Kevin, a super cool local on a classic near the Elephant area...
Irreversible from scott chandler on Vimeo.
and one of the best problems on the planet; Justin Alarcon enjoys the Misericorde:
Misericorde from scott chandler on Vimeo.
I last visited this enchanted bouldering area 9 years ago with my close friend, Forrest King. We had a blast, but I never returned since there were so many other areas to travel to in the world. Additionally, I remember daily rain and inclement weather stymied our climbing ambitions. Despite the obstacles, I managed to do some amazing climbs back then including the archetypal dyno, "Hale Bopp," and "l'aerodynamie."
This trip was a get-back-in-shape for me trip and a scope-it-out trip pour ma femme. Siemay was 16-18 weeks pregnant during the trip and she managed to climb harder and harder throughout the trip! We were with many good friends from the Bay, spending most our time with Scott, Monica and Justin who lived down the street from us. Our close friend, Rich Meredick stayed with us in our gite (small rental home/apt.) in Larchant, a small town Southwest of the city of Font(ainebleau.)
We also hung/climbed with other (North) Americans during our stay: Randy and Beth, Inger and Nora, Tim Doyle and Matt Lucas... Paul Robinson, Chris Schulte & Jackie Hueftle, Rob Guinn, Justin Wood and Pace, Walker Kearny and Lina and friends... Also we climbed and partied with Ethan Pringle and one of my closest friends, Matt Wilder. Quite a crew of rad people!
And how could I forget our French friends... new and old. David Labrosse joined us in our gite until Siemay left for home, and Miki, Pierre, Ben from Lyon also got psyched to join in the fun!
I also had the opportunity to befriend an amazing family. The two sons, Gregoire and Kevin and their legendary father, Allaine. (I am sure I am butchering the spelling of their names.) The Thibaults are such cool people. Extremely motivated and friendly and crazy and hilarious, with super cute girlfriends to boot! Kevin spots me in the first video above and he climbs a fabulous problem called "irreversible" in the next video. Thanks to Scott Chandler for awesome videos and psyche.
I can honestly say that I had so much fun hanging out and climbing with these two brothers and their father that even when we were rained out, we were all psyched, just being together under a boulder roof in the pouring rain sharing good times. ...Verily, life is about who we meet along the way!
Font is amazing. The weather can suck, and the condoms and feces behind some of the blocs of Bas Cuvier are revolting. The thing is, the climbing is unbelievable. Imagine climbing the most perfect problems with inspiring movement and crazy holds. Climbing the impossible happens frequently. The holds are ergo and comfy, you probably will not bleed in Font (unlike Hueco, Buttermilks, etc.) Also, like Horse Pens, the volume is staggering. ...Over 20,000 problems in the forest currently spread out over 150 different areas! Every style of climbing is represented in a fairly even distribution, but the slopers, ahhh the slopers!!! Potential as well, there will be twice as many problems some day and every year classics are discovered and opened.
Except for a really cool dyno called "Rainbow Rocket" (I said cool dyno, not cool name) I never went back to a problem more than one day, and no, I did not do the 8a dyno...
Some Notable sends/moments:
Rich Meredick - "Duroxamanie"
Matt Wilder - "Megalithe" Flash
Tim Doyle - "Vague Patatras"
Monica Andrada - "La Marie Rose"
Nora - "Le Egoiste"
Justin Alarcon - "Misericorde," "La Mandarin," "Super Prestat"
Scott Chandler - "Irreversible," "Opium," "La Gaulle," "Cent Pof" "Megawatt" "Noir Desire" etc...
Inger - "L'Etrave" Flash
Me - "Instinct"
Siemay - Many hard climbs with Bruce on board!
Randy and Beth - Volume and bunk toe sending! Randy was SUPER close on several 8a-8b sick hard climbs and Beth was still able to destroy despite a foot injury. Proud.
David Labrosse - "Rataplat"
Paul Robinson - everything he touched.
Nalle - see Paul's and "Tigre et Dragon"
Jackie - "Apartenance"
Chris - "Rainbow Rocket" and sick close to the "Big Island" 8c badness
Kevin - "synapse" "Partage" (first go after weighted moves/beta)
Ughhh... So many more
Rockland's aesthetics, but the movement and rock quality, accessibility and fun factor make for the ultimate area.
Did I mention the Bread, the wine, and the daily scrumptious pastries???
Basically, you have to go.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Thursday, January 20, 2011
Roast Beef Toilet Bowl
Here is my friend Tom Ellis doing the FA of "Roast Beef Toilet Bowl" a hard roof in New Mexico:
Roast beef toilet bowl from thomas ellis on Vimeo.
...I hurt my wrist in Roy this fall (not climbing actually... Spotting!) I have not been climbing so I can heal it for our trip to Font. We will be going to France for a month in Feb/March.
Are you jealous? Why not plan a trip somewhere?
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Roast beef toilet bowl from thomas ellis on Vimeo.
...I hurt my wrist in Roy this fall (not climbing actually... Spotting!) I have not been climbing so I can heal it for our trip to Font. We will be going to France for a month in Feb/March.
Are you jealous? Why not plan a trip somewhere?
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Tuesday, January 11, 2011
Roy: Another Sojourn
Ok. Had to go back. We found a huge new zone that will need a bunch of work. Took Brian Arnold, Brian Capps and Jason Kehl again. Did some new stuff. Here are pics and video. Check it.
"Icarus" V7 highball and projects/classics (bits and pieces)
"Paver Tom" V8 at Jumbles
"Carpet Bombers" V10 at the World Wide Wall
here are some photos to further encourage you:
Scarpa Team member Brian Arnold on an amazing project, still undone. Brian was super close. The first move is the crux and then it is about V7 to finish. Maybe a V11.
Brian Capps gets the third ascent of "Carpet Bombers" V10 highball. This is bandering at it's absolute finest. FA Tom Ellis (and John Kuphal)
Brian Capps on the rad dynamic crux move of the sublime "Icarus" V7. What a line.
Capps on the project. We were all shut down, but close. There is an amazing V9 to the right that Tom Ellis put up. Arnold and I tried it in the sun one day and were unable to do it.
Enjoy the season, climbers!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
"Icarus" V7 highball and projects/classics (bits and pieces)
"Paver Tom" V8 at Jumbles
"Carpet Bombers" V10 at the World Wide Wall
here are some photos to further encourage you:
Enjoy the season, climbers!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Monday, December 20, 2010
Southern Nevada Bouldering Review
It is not often that I am amazed by a climbing guidebook. I have long felt that Matt Wilder's Hueco Tanks guide is the best guidebook ever assembled for lovers of our craft. My wife Siemay and i recently traveled to the sandstone boulders around Red Rocks for some friendly bouldering with our long time friends Brian Capps and Christian Tartaglia. On the sojourn, we met and climbed with Pete Lowe, Brandon from LA, Alex Savage, and Tom Moulin. We also had a chance to see and use Tom's new guide to this vast area. I bought a personal copy immediately.
So, It is with great pleasure that I review Southern Nevada Bouldering, a guidebook.
Southern Nevada Bouldering by Tom Moulin is a work of art. This guide, also recently reviewed on Climbing Narc, is everything a guidebook should be. I recommend seeing that review as well, since Brian is an adroit reviewer.
FULL DISCLOSURE: I bought this book and was not asked to review it; I have no incentive for doing so.
Here's a bullet summary of my findings:
Pros:
Amazing color photos, tons of images
Accurate descriptions and photos of boulders with people climbing often for scale
Ample history and narrative
Topographical maps of boulder locations
Bouldering area is spread out, but on par with Joe's for quantity and quality
Extremely well organized
It's right outside Vegas
updated route section online (http://www.snellpress.com/snb/board/)
Numerous projects listed for visiting crushers
Few people at the newer areas
Cons:
$40. - worth every penny though
Heavy, more of a coffee table book - tough to carry to the crag
So beautiful/expensive, you won't want to bring it to the crag! I am already planning to xerox pages before I go out again, or buy 2 copies (if you have money to burn.)
Many of the areas described do not have proper trails and are super dog unfriendly (cholla-mania). The hikes can be long for mega quality problems but low concentration.
Some of the rock is silty and not as grippy as other sandstone Meccas (dirty south, joes.) The rock is oftern similar to Moe's valley in St. George.
It's right outside Vegas
Crowded at the well established areas
All in all, Vegas bouldering areas are amazing with some really standout lines. The guidebook is totally worth the money: go to Vegas bouldering to get a copy. I have already spent hours reading through it, starring at the photos and planning my next outing. Holding this book is holding a piece of art. The amount of time it must have taken to create this is staggering! My hands are sweating just thinking about the problems I left undone.
On my short trip, we never returned to the same boulder twice. I managed to complete a few problems though, the best of which was "Wet Dream" from the obvious stand (I worked out the moves on the V11 sit and need to go back!) I also did "Fountainhead" V9 (I started the stand as high as I could, one move higher than most people start, although the first move was very easy for me) and worked on the sit, and amazing V12 called "Atlas Shrugged" (of course.) I was unable to climb the "Lion Share" an sweet V9, but watched PeteLowe come super close to sending the low start at V12. I tried "Ambacamba" which was a difficult V9 that I could not do, so I did a first ascent just to its right that I called "Bad Cocoa" V8 which shares the same finish. Siemay did the classic "Mr. Moran" V7 in a few goes. Capps basically sent everything. Tartaglia and I went to "Stand and Deliver" V11 which was an epic hike, but so worth it, the problem is 3 stars and dreamy. I did the crux several times, but stopped trying since my elbow began to complain. Too many days on in a row! Christian pulled it out of the bag with a last minute send that was epic.
Alex Savage was also on fire sending most everything he tried in a few goes, making difficult lines look quite easy. Younger, newer model was the joke du jour. Super nice guy with amazing psych and video skillz...
Speaking of videos, here's a tasty video of Ethan Pringle's "Wet Dream," candidate for top 10% of V12s in the world:
Ethan Pringle climbs Wet Dream, Black Velvet Canyon from SNB on Vimeo.
The Amazing "Stand & Deliver" V11
First Ascent of Stand and Deliver, Red Rocks Bouldering from SNB on Vimeo.
See many more Vegas bouldering videos to get you psyched: http://vimeo.com/user4734779/videos
Okay people, Get out there and destroy!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
So, It is with great pleasure that I review Southern Nevada Bouldering, a guidebook.
Southern Nevada Bouldering by Tom Moulin is a work of art. This guide, also recently reviewed on Climbing Narc, is everything a guidebook should be. I recommend seeing that review as well, since Brian is an adroit reviewer.
FULL DISCLOSURE: I bought this book and was not asked to review it; I have no incentive for doing so.
Here's a bullet summary of my findings:
Pros:
Amazing color photos, tons of images
Accurate descriptions and photos of boulders with people climbing often for scale
Ample history and narrative
Topographical maps of boulder locations
Bouldering area is spread out, but on par with Joe's for quantity and quality
Extremely well organized
It's right outside Vegas
updated route section online (http://www.snellpress.com/snb/board/)
Numerous projects listed for visiting crushers
Few people at the newer areas
Cons:
$40. - worth every penny though
Heavy, more of a coffee table book - tough to carry to the crag
So beautiful/expensive, you won't want to bring it to the crag! I am already planning to xerox pages before I go out again, or buy 2 copies (if you have money to burn.)
Many of the areas described do not have proper trails and are super dog unfriendly (cholla-mania). The hikes can be long for mega quality problems but low concentration.
Some of the rock is silty and not as grippy as other sandstone Meccas (dirty south, joes.) The rock is oftern similar to Moe's valley in St. George.
It's right outside Vegas
Crowded at the well established areas
All in all, Vegas bouldering areas are amazing with some really standout lines. The guidebook is totally worth the money: go to Vegas bouldering to get a copy. I have already spent hours reading through it, starring at the photos and planning my next outing. Holding this book is holding a piece of art. The amount of time it must have taken to create this is staggering! My hands are sweating just thinking about the problems I left undone.
On my short trip, we never returned to the same boulder twice. I managed to complete a few problems though, the best of which was "Wet Dream" from the obvious stand (I worked out the moves on the V11 sit and need to go back!) I also did "Fountainhead" V9 (I started the stand as high as I could, one move higher than most people start, although the first move was very easy for me) and worked on the sit, and amazing V12 called "Atlas Shrugged" (of course.) I was unable to climb the "Lion Share" an sweet V9, but watched PeteLowe come super close to sending the low start at V12. I tried "Ambacamba" which was a difficult V9 that I could not do, so I did a first ascent just to its right that I called "Bad Cocoa" V8 which shares the same finish. Siemay did the classic "Mr. Moran" V7 in a few goes. Capps basically sent everything. Tartaglia and I went to "Stand and Deliver" V11 which was an epic hike, but so worth it, the problem is 3 stars and dreamy. I did the crux several times, but stopped trying since my elbow began to complain. Too many days on in a row! Christian pulled it out of the bag with a last minute send that was epic.
Alex Savage was also on fire sending most everything he tried in a few goes, making difficult lines look quite easy. Younger, newer model was the joke du jour. Super nice guy with amazing psych and video skillz...
Speaking of videos, here's a tasty video of Ethan Pringle's "Wet Dream," candidate for top 10% of V12s in the world:
Ethan Pringle climbs Wet Dream, Black Velvet Canyon from SNB on Vimeo.
The Amazing "Stand & Deliver" V11
First Ascent of Stand and Deliver, Red Rocks Bouldering from SNB on Vimeo.
See many more Vegas bouldering videos to get you psyched: http://vimeo.com/user4734779/videos
Okay people, Get out there and destroy!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Tuesday, December 7, 2010
Economics 102 and some climbing news
First, the climbing News:
Congrats to Joel Zerr on the 2nd ascent of Jesse Bonin's "Secret Weapon" V11. I love this climb, but it got snowed out. I am very close as well. I May shovel it out soon. Joel is also super close to the 2nd ascent of "Alcatraz sit" V12 (FA stand: Kaufman, Sit: Bonin) I will be filming joel on this awesome climb in Carson City, NV for "Try Harder."
Congrats also to Jesse Bonin on his new V11 in Korea! http://www.jessebonin.blogspot.com/ for pics and video... Also, Jesse did an old Kim Lee project at around V10 and called it "Sandpaper Handjob." Great name! Here's a video of some South Korea climbing antics by our very own J. Bonin:
First Ascents in South Korea from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.
Congrats to Brian Capps on making short work on "Stained Glass" V10 in Bishop. This is one of the best climbs ever. Also, Christian Tartaglia has fallen off the last move of the "Mandala" possibly V13 now after the key right hand credit-card crimp has broken and is worse (could it get worse?)
Economics commentary:
As many of you know, I have an interest in investing/trading the stock market and a basic understanding of what's going on in the world is definitely helpful for the agile trader. Try this on for size:
"Mary is the proprietor of a bar in Dublin . She realizes that virtually all of her customers are unemployed alcoholics and, as such, can no longer afford to patronize her bar. To solve this problem, she comes up with new marketing plan that allows her customers to drink now, but pay later. She keeps track of the drinks consumed on a ledger (thereby granting the customers loans).
Word gets around about Mary’s "drink now, pay later" marketing strategy and, as a result, increasing numbers of customers flood into Mary’s bar. Soon she has the largest sales volume for any bar in Dublin.
By providing her customers' freedom from immediate payment demands, Mary gets no resistance when, at regular intervals, she substantially increases her prices for wine and beer, the most consumed beverages. Consequently, Mary's gross sales volume increases massively. A young and dynamic vice-president at the local bank recognizes that these customer debts constitute valuable future assets and increases Mary's borrowing limit. He sees no reason for any undue concern, since he has the debts of the unemployed alcoholics as collateral.
At the bank's corporate headquarters, expert traders figure a way to make huge commissions, and transform these customer loans into DRINKBONDS, ALCHOBONDS and PUKEBONDS. These securities are then bundled and traded on international security markets. Naive investors don't really understand that the securities being sold to them as AAA secured bonds are really the debts of unemployed alcoholics. Nevertheless, the bond prices continuously climb, and the securities soon become the hottest-selling items for some of the nation's leading brokerage houses.
One day, even though the bond prices are still climbing, a risk manager at the original local bank decides that the time has come to demand payment on the debts incurred by the drinkers at Mary’s bar. He so informs Mary.
Mary then demands payment from her alcoholic patrons, but being unemployed alcoholics they cannot pay back their drinking debts.Since, Mary cannot fulfil her loan obligations she is forced into bankruptcy. The bar closes and the eleven employees lose their jobs.
Overnight, DRINKBONDS, ALCHOBONDS and PUKEBONDS drop in price by 90%. The collapsed bond asset value destroys the banks liquidity and prevents it from issuing new loans, thus freezing credit and economic activity in the community.
The suppliers of Mary’s bar had granted her generous payment extensions and had invested their firms' pension funds in the various BOND securities. They find they are now faced with having to write off her bad debt and with losing over 90% of the presumed value of the bonds. Her wine supplier also claims bankruptcy, closing the doors on a family business that had endured for three generations, her beer supplier is taken over by a competitor, who immediately closes the local plant and lays off 150 workers.
Fortunately though, the bank, the brokerage houses and their respective executives are saved and bailed out by a multi-billion euro no-strings attached cash infusion from their cronies in Government. The funds required for this bailout are obtained by new taxes levied on employed, middle-class, non-drinkers who have never been in Mary’s bar."
Now, do you understand economics in 2010?
In the US, it was our housing market instead of Mary's bar. We lent a lot of money to people who in no way could afford the loans they were getting.
The cool thing is that the astute investor/trader can take advantage of this to exponentiate her capital! Some now famous traders saw this coming and shorted the hell out of the "DRINKBOND" (CDO, etc.) market making a fortune. Sad but true. Common sense is not as prevalent as one might wish, and we all owe big time for the irresponsibility of a few knuckle-heads.
Looking to the future, this type of bubble is bound to be inflated at some point again. Look for it, be ready, and pounce and perhaps you can make a ton of cash (off other's misfortunes and stupidity.)
Thanks to my brother, Asher and his friends for this awesome analogy.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Congrats to Joel Zerr on the 2nd ascent of Jesse Bonin's "Secret Weapon" V11. I love this climb, but it got snowed out. I am very close as well. I May shovel it out soon. Joel is also super close to the 2nd ascent of "Alcatraz sit" V12 (FA stand: Kaufman, Sit: Bonin) I will be filming joel on this awesome climb in Carson City, NV for "Try Harder."
Congrats also to Jesse Bonin on his new V11 in Korea! http://www.jessebonin.blogspot.com/ for pics and video... Also, Jesse did an old Kim Lee project at around V10 and called it "Sandpaper Handjob." Great name! Here's a video of some South Korea climbing antics by our very own J. Bonin:
First Ascents in South Korea from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.
Congrats to Brian Capps on making short work on "Stained Glass" V10 in Bishop. This is one of the best climbs ever. Also, Christian Tartaglia has fallen off the last move of the "Mandala" possibly V13 now after the key right hand credit-card crimp has broken and is worse (could it get worse?)
Economics commentary:
As many of you know, I have an interest in investing/trading the stock market and a basic understanding of what's going on in the world is definitely helpful for the agile trader. Try this on for size:
"Mary is the proprietor of a bar in Dublin . She realizes that virtually all of her customers are unemployed alcoholics and, as such, can no longer afford to patronize her bar. To solve this problem, she comes up with new marketing plan that allows her customers to drink now, but pay later. She keeps track of the drinks consumed on a ledger (thereby granting the customers loans).
Word gets around about Mary’s "drink now, pay later" marketing strategy and, as a result, increasing numbers of customers flood into Mary’s bar. Soon she has the largest sales volume for any bar in Dublin.
By providing her customers' freedom from immediate payment demands, Mary gets no resistance when, at regular intervals, she substantially increases her prices for wine and beer, the most consumed beverages. Consequently, Mary's gross sales volume increases massively. A young and dynamic vice-president at the local bank recognizes that these customer debts constitute valuable future assets and increases Mary's borrowing limit. He sees no reason for any undue concern, since he has the debts of the unemployed alcoholics as collateral.
At the bank's corporate headquarters, expert traders figure a way to make huge commissions, and transform these customer loans into DRINKBONDS, ALCHOBONDS and PUKEBONDS. These securities are then bundled and traded on international security markets. Naive investors don't really understand that the securities being sold to them as AAA secured bonds are really the debts of unemployed alcoholics. Nevertheless, the bond prices continuously climb, and the securities soon become the hottest-selling items for some of the nation's leading brokerage houses.
One day, even though the bond prices are still climbing, a risk manager at the original local bank decides that the time has come to demand payment on the debts incurred by the drinkers at Mary’s bar. He so informs Mary.
Mary then demands payment from her alcoholic patrons, but being unemployed alcoholics they cannot pay back their drinking debts.Since, Mary cannot fulfil her loan obligations she is forced into bankruptcy. The bar closes and the eleven employees lose their jobs.
Overnight, DRINKBONDS, ALCHOBONDS and PUKEBONDS drop in price by 90%. The collapsed bond asset value destroys the banks liquidity and prevents it from issuing new loans, thus freezing credit and economic activity in the community.
The suppliers of Mary’s bar had granted her generous payment extensions and had invested their firms' pension funds in the various BOND securities. They find they are now faced with having to write off her bad debt and with losing over 90% of the presumed value of the bonds. Her wine supplier also claims bankruptcy, closing the doors on a family business that had endured for three generations, her beer supplier is taken over by a competitor, who immediately closes the local plant and lays off 150 workers.
Fortunately though, the bank, the brokerage houses and their respective executives are saved and bailed out by a multi-billion euro no-strings attached cash infusion from their cronies in Government. The funds required for this bailout are obtained by new taxes levied on employed, middle-class, non-drinkers who have never been in Mary’s bar."
Now, do you understand economics in 2010?
In the US, it was our housing market instead of Mary's bar. We lent a lot of money to people who in no way could afford the loans they were getting.
The cool thing is that the astute investor/trader can take advantage of this to exponentiate her capital! Some now famous traders saw this coming and shorted the hell out of the "DRINKBOND" (CDO, etc.) market making a fortune. Sad but true. Common sense is not as prevalent as one might wish, and we all owe big time for the irresponsibility of a few knuckle-heads.
Looking to the future, this type of bubble is bound to be inflated at some point again. Look for it, be ready, and pounce and perhaps you can make a ton of cash (off other's misfortunes and stupidity.)
Thanks to my brother, Asher and his friends for this awesome analogy.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Wednesday, December 1, 2010
Rocktober in Yosemite
Here's another great Scott Chandler video of our time in Yosemite this fall:
Rocktober 2010 from scott chandler on Vimeo.
The last line in the video is not in the guidebook either. it is next to hexentric at cathedral. Charlie told me to go check it out, he thought he had heard it was a V11. This may be true for shorter climbers, but I felt it was V9ish for my body-size. Also of interest is that the "FA" Quasimodo V7 that Scott does in the video apparently had been tried and maybe done several years back! Scott and I re-cleaned this gem but broke a hold or two and found tons of moss... Just goes to show, you never know!
Get psyched!!!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Rocktober 2010 from scott chandler on Vimeo.
The last line in the video is not in the guidebook either. it is next to hexentric at cathedral. Charlie told me to go check it out, he thought he had heard it was a V11. This may be true for shorter climbers, but I felt it was V9ish for my body-size. Also of interest is that the "FA" Quasimodo V7 that Scott does in the video apparently had been tried and maybe done several years back! Scott and I re-cleaned this gem but broke a hold or two and found tons of moss... Just goes to show, you never know!
Get psyched!!!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Saturday, November 27, 2010
Blitzenator V9
Awesome line in Tahoe that deserves attention: See the youtube write up for beta; it's right off the road!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
Roy: A Sojourn
When I first saw this picture on John Kuphal's excellent blog, Zero-friction I knew I had to see the sandstone around Roy, New Mexico:
Here's a video of the best stuff I saw/climbed on:
Roy is not an established, crowded area. It may never be... There is no guidebook, a lot of hiking and adventure, and no real amenities of a close by town. Roy is not Joe's, Hueco or Bishop. In fact, only full-time lifer's and lovers of our craft will appreciate Roy. There is choss and good rock, like anywhere else. This place is good, but no Mecca. There are 4 star lines, occasionally, but Roy is about hanging out and developing a good local area in a pristine and unusual natural setting. Before I get into the trip report and stories/photos/video, let me state the ground rules for Roy and the local ethic:
1. NEVER cross barbwire fences. All areas are accessible by foot although many hikes are extensive. The area around Roy is a mix of public and private land and if you cross a fenced area, you threaten everyone's continued access and your own life. Local landowners can shoot you. Seriously. Furthermore, there is a ranger that has loyalties to the land, the law, and homeowners.
2. All Access rules apply: leave no trace, cut no trails, no chipping. Take photos, leave footprints, etc.
3. Be respectful of others and the environment. Roy is just as much about being "out there" as it is about climbing.
In terms of the rock climbing, Roy is pretty diverse. You will find every type of hold and angle of climbing, from roofs, to bandering, to slabs to everything else. The lines are generally not quite as striking as South Africa, but the rock is generally good and occasionally exceptional bullet hard Dakota Sandstone. If you are a world traveler, you will love Roy. If you mostly make the circuit from Joe's/Bishop/Hueco, you may find that Roy is a waste of your time. There are no truly difficult lines yet. There does seem to be potential for harder lines, but currently grades are up to about V9. There are many sectors to explore, but no guidebook--purposefully. Locals will gladly show newcomers around, but most people begin their adventuring around Mills Canyon Road, North of Roy Proper, and West of Hwy 39 by about 4 miles. Without many trees to obscure boulders, Google Earth is a valuable tool to locate potential areas. Occasionally, these areas yield sub-par rock, but the best areas are super fun for sure. Here are some pics: Click to enlarge.
I am an adventurer. period. I love to travel to new areas and see new things. I also love to meet new people. Developing hundreds of boulders in Tahoe, I have learned the ropes of successful area development. Tahoe is a Mecca, and unlike Roy has high quality granite and hard, hard lines. Even so, there is very little traffic in Tahoe since the areas are so spread out through the basin. Traveling to Roy, I knew I would at least have adventure even if I never found the "Mecca."
So, I took 2 weeks and cruised to New Mexico with my wife, Siemay and close friend, Rich. The first week, I had some leads and found the boulders of the wash in Mills Canyon. The best problem here, by far, is John Kuphal's world class "Giant Prostitutes in Space" V8 Highball.
Here is Jason Kehl doing the 2nd ascent (I did the 3rd (first ground up) right after Jason):
This wash and surrounding areas is a decent "local's" area, but except for this problem and a few others, like Jason Kehl's new V10 thug-fest "Nobody" The area is not really worth traveling to. It is like the Eden area at Joe's. Maybe a little bigger, but many small problems that range from sandy to immaculate stone.
"Nobody" V10 FA Jason Kehl
We also found some new climbs and cleaned and did some new classic first ascents at another zone (the Tahoe zone) "Leaping Tarantula" V9 (pic right, Noah Kaufman, FA) and "Wild Goose Chase" V5 (pic left, Rich Meredick) were standouts. During this exploratory first week, I drove many a dirt road and tracked down many a Google Earth lead mostly without finding anything worthy... I really wanted to see the wall from the Zero-friction photo, and I was determined to find it!
I also went to Roy because of the Climbing Magazine web feature: "No, so don't even ask... This crew of New Mexico climbers has the perfect spot, blah blah blah ...bullet stone, perfect access, etc..." I felt teased. I love sandstone. Why dangle a secret in front of my nose? I'm 35 and my strong days are numbered. I love climbing more than anything, and have for 20 years now. I took the bait.
...So, my old friend Jason Kehl, fresh from an epic bouldering trip to the Himalayas decided to join me on my sans beta adventuring of the canyons of Roy. Jason showed up just as Siemay and Rich were leaving. By this point, I had hiked a lot and found some stuff that was... ehhh... okay... Jason and I talked old times and hung out with Chilly in the truck camper. We climbed in the wash and had a fun time, knowing that we were missing out on the best areas these locals were hiding. We did the best (and tallest lines... with Jason there, you know what you're getting into!)
Jason left for Hueco after a few days and my trip was coming to an end. I took a break from the lonely canyons of Roy to visit Rich and go to Enchanted Tower for a day. During this break Rich sent his first 12a and had an epic fall at the chains: half victory whip half complete forearm failure. it was awesome. Anyhow, I got in touch with another old friend, Nick Duttle who gave me some beta and some contact info for the area's main developer: Tom Ellis. Tom is amazing. He called me right back and was psyched. In fact, if you have climbed with me, you know I yell a lot and that I am psyched. Tom is that and more... Unafraid to "monkey-fuck" his friends, Tom is a total lifer and free spirit. Together with a rowdy crew of fellow developers: William Penner, Masumi Shibata, Grady "Sausageman" Ball, et alia I was given a tour of the gems of Roy canyon.
The best lines I did/tried were "Kin no Kanoke" (The Golden Casket) V9, "Carpet Bagger" (stand) v9 sit v10 highball, "Mammajamma" V6 Highball (see video), "Tear Drops of Cum" V7, "Batman" V7 30 foot roof jug-haul...
"TDC" V7 FA Tom Ellis 4 star
"Kin no Kanoke" (The Golden Casket) V9 Grady Ball working the line. FA Masumi Shibata. 4 star
Noah Kaufman, "Squid Jerky" V7 four star. FA John Kuphal
Tom Ellis "Squid Jerky"
Jeff Sutton on "Mammajamma" V6 5 star?
Jeff Sutton working "Batman" V7
Texture
"Ergonomicon" V7 on the Ergernomic boulder. First Asecnt William Penner. 4-star line. Wow.
Jeff Sutton working this classic. Grady and JC cranked out wicked sends during our trip. Sick. Some of the best rock I saw in Roy and one of the coolest lines established so far.
New V9 project. Hard first move to V4. Jeff Sutton works this pretty line.
uhhh... bolted lines appearing on the cliffbands, Massive "BFRB"s below. Some are perfect.
Left: Tom Ellis, project.
These lines are classics. We also tried many projects.
The adventure and camaraderie was the focus it seemed. In a world of haters, where all my youtube videos have negative comments because of all the cheer-leading, it was nice to be hanging out with a bunch of lovers, a bunch of monkey-fucking yellers.
Roy may not be for everyone. The hikes are long with many spiked objects, there is no guidebook, there are a million pieces of rock, the locale is desolate and lonely. There are no restaurants/hotels/shops and the small town of Roy is dying a sad and lonely death.
That being said, and maybe it's because I'm getting older, I'm going back to Roy.
For solid sandstone, good friends, and adventure.
One last time: If you do go to Roy go to Mills Canyon campground, explore and follow these simple guidelines:
1. NEVER cross barbwire fences. All areas are accessible by foot although many hikes are extensive. The area around Roy is a mix of public and private land and if you cross a fenced area, you threaten everyone's continued access and your own life. Local landowners can shoot you. Seriously. Furthermore, there is a ranger that has loyalties to the land, the law, and homeowners.
2. All Access rules apply: leave no trace, cut no trails, no chipping. Take photos, leave footprints, etc.
3. Be respectful of others and the environment. Roy is just as much about being "out there" as it is about climbing.
*To the best of my knowledge, no monkeys were actually fucked or hurt during my trip to Roy.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
John Kuphal on "Carpet Bagger" V10. FA Tom Ellis. five star line. seriously. I did the second ascent of the stand at v9 and will go back soon for the sit! Amazing line at the World Wide Wall.
Here's a video of the best stuff I saw/climbed on:
Roy is not an established, crowded area. It may never be... There is no guidebook, a lot of hiking and adventure, and no real amenities of a close by town. Roy is not Joe's, Hueco or Bishop. In fact, only full-time lifer's and lovers of our craft will appreciate Roy. There is choss and good rock, like anywhere else. This place is good, but no Mecca. There are 4 star lines, occasionally, but Roy is about hanging out and developing a good local area in a pristine and unusual natural setting. Before I get into the trip report and stories/photos/video, let me state the ground rules for Roy and the local ethic:
1. NEVER cross barbwire fences. All areas are accessible by foot although many hikes are extensive. The area around Roy is a mix of public and private land and if you cross a fenced area, you threaten everyone's continued access and your own life. Local landowners can shoot you. Seriously. Furthermore, there is a ranger that has loyalties to the land, the law, and homeowners.
2. All Access rules apply: leave no trace, cut no trails, no chipping. Take photos, leave footprints, etc.
3. Be respectful of others and the environment. Roy is just as much about being "out there" as it is about climbing.
In terms of the rock climbing, Roy is pretty diverse. You will find every type of hold and angle of climbing, from roofs, to bandering, to slabs to everything else. The lines are generally not quite as striking as South Africa, but the rock is generally good and occasionally exceptional bullet hard Dakota Sandstone. If you are a world traveler, you will love Roy. If you mostly make the circuit from Joe's/Bishop/Hueco, you may find that Roy is a waste of your time. There are no truly difficult lines yet. There does seem to be potential for harder lines, but currently grades are up to about V9. There are many sectors to explore, but no guidebook--purposefully. Locals will gladly show newcomers around, but most people begin their adventuring around Mills Canyon Road, North of Roy Proper, and West of Hwy 39 by about 4 miles. Without many trees to obscure boulders, Google Earth is a valuable tool to locate potential areas. Occasionally, these areas yield sub-par rock, but the best areas are super fun for sure. Here are some pics: Click to enlarge.
I am an adventurer. period. I love to travel to new areas and see new things. I also love to meet new people. Developing hundreds of boulders in Tahoe, I have learned the ropes of successful area development. Tahoe is a Mecca, and unlike Roy has high quality granite and hard, hard lines. Even so, there is very little traffic in Tahoe since the areas are so spread out through the basin. Traveling to Roy, I knew I would at least have adventure even if I never found the "Mecca."
So, I took 2 weeks and cruised to New Mexico with my wife, Siemay and close friend, Rich. The first week, I had some leads and found the boulders of the wash in Mills Canyon. The best problem here, by far, is John Kuphal's world class "Giant Prostitutes in Space" V8 Highball.
Here is Jason Kehl doing the 2nd ascent (I did the 3rd (first ground up) right after Jason):
This wash and surrounding areas is a decent "local's" area, but except for this problem and a few others, like Jason Kehl's new V10 thug-fest "Nobody" The area is not really worth traveling to. It is like the Eden area at Joe's. Maybe a little bigger, but many small problems that range from sandy to immaculate stone.
"Nobody" V10 FA Jason Kehl
We also found some new climbs and cleaned and did some new classic first ascents at another zone (the Tahoe zone) "Leaping Tarantula" V9 (pic right, Noah Kaufman, FA) and "Wild Goose Chase" V5 (pic left, Rich Meredick) were standouts. During this exploratory first week, I drove many a dirt road and tracked down many a Google Earth lead mostly without finding anything worthy... I really wanted to see the wall from the Zero-friction photo, and I was determined to find it!
I also went to Roy because of the Climbing Magazine web feature: "No, so don't even ask... This crew of New Mexico climbers has the perfect spot, blah blah blah ...bullet stone, perfect access, etc..." I felt teased. I love sandstone. Why dangle a secret in front of my nose? I'm 35 and my strong days are numbered. I love climbing more than anything, and have for 20 years now. I took the bait.
...So, my old friend Jason Kehl, fresh from an epic bouldering trip to the Himalayas decided to join me on my sans beta adventuring of the canyons of Roy. Jason showed up just as Siemay and Rich were leaving. By this point, I had hiked a lot and found some stuff that was... ehhh... okay... Jason and I talked old times and hung out with Chilly in the truck camper. We climbed in the wash and had a fun time, knowing that we were missing out on the best areas these locals were hiding. We did the best (and tallest lines... with Jason there, you know what you're getting into!)
Jason left for Hueco after a few days and my trip was coming to an end. I took a break from the lonely canyons of Roy to visit Rich and go to Enchanted Tower for a day. During this break Rich sent his first 12a and had an epic fall at the chains: half victory whip half complete forearm failure. it was awesome. Anyhow, I got in touch with another old friend, Nick Duttle who gave me some beta and some contact info for the area's main developer: Tom Ellis. Tom is amazing. He called me right back and was psyched. In fact, if you have climbed with me, you know I yell a lot and that I am psyched. Tom is that and more... Unafraid to "monkey-fuck" his friends, Tom is a total lifer and free spirit. Together with a rowdy crew of fellow developers: William Penner, Masumi Shibata, Grady "Sausageman" Ball, et alia I was given a tour of the gems of Roy canyon.
The best lines I did/tried were "Kin no Kanoke" (The Golden Casket) V9, "Carpet Bagger" (stand) v9 sit v10 highball, "Mammajamma" V6 Highball (see video), "Tear Drops of Cum" V7, "Batman" V7 30 foot roof jug-haul...
"TDC" V7 FA Tom Ellis 4 star
"Kin no Kanoke" (The Golden Casket) V9 Grady Ball working the line. FA Masumi Shibata. 4 star
These lines are classics. We also tried many projects.
The adventure and camaraderie was the focus it seemed. In a world of haters, where all my youtube videos have negative comments because of all the cheer-leading, it was nice to be hanging out with a bunch of lovers, a bunch of monkey-fucking yellers.
Roy may not be for everyone. The hikes are long with many spiked objects, there is no guidebook, there are a million pieces of rock, the locale is desolate and lonely. There are no restaurants/hotels/shops and the small town of Roy is dying a sad and lonely death.
That being said, and maybe it's because I'm getting older, I'm going back to Roy.
For solid sandstone, good friends, and adventure.
One last time: If you do go to Roy go to Mills Canyon campground, explore and follow these simple guidelines:
1. NEVER cross barbwire fences. All areas are accessible by foot although many hikes are extensive. The area around Roy is a mix of public and private land and if you cross a fenced area, you threaten everyone's continued access and your own life. Local landowners can shoot you. Seriously. Furthermore, there is a ranger that has loyalties to the land, the law, and homeowners.
2. All Access rules apply: leave no trace, cut no trails, no chipping. Take photos, leave footprints, etc.
3. Be respectful of others and the environment. Roy is just as much about being "out there" as it is about climbing.
*To the best of my knowledge, no monkeys were actually fucked or hurt during my trip to Roy.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Thursday, November 18, 2010
Ground Control V11
Congratulations to Alex Savage for the second ascent of "Ground Control." This is perhaps one of the best lines in Tahoe that I found, cleaned and sent earlier this fall. A must do for the advanced climber!
I am putting together my Roy media and will write an essay on my experiences there over the next week or so, so stay tuned!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Ground Control V11 from Savage Climbing on Vimeo.
I am putting together my Roy media and will write an essay on my experiences there over the next week or so, so stay tuned!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
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