Tahoe Bouldering Competition

September 15th @ 9 am. Be there!

Sign up on line: http://www.tahoebouldering.com/

Visit & like the Facebook page:
http://www.facebook.com/events/188008207993797/

Come see new "secret" areas and badass problems! Drink beer! Eat and be merry!

Strong Tahoe locals and developers will likely not compete, so the field is wide open and the prizes are insane (crash pads, shoes, hang boards, money, etc. in all categories!)

See you there!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

One Eyed Willie V7

Many of you have heard about the beavers, South Shore's best new climbing area. There's also the mountain beavers which is a big hike, but the beavers is a fairly convenient two minutes from the car!

These areas are basically out south upper Truckee River road on the left, across the river.

Here is one of our friends completing one eyed Willie, a super classic granite problem.



By the way, there are many more projects to be done there, and we are excited about cleaning and putting up
New lines! This day, I put up a low right exit to OEW @ v6, and figured out the moves to a low left start to OEW at about v9. We also did a cool new steep v6 called "cricket" on the untouched death block boulder. There is a mega project to the right of this new line that starts on cool underlings...

Although Tahoe keeps giving, it is getting hot and buggy. Siemay, Zun & I will be packing up the truck camper soon and heading to Goldbar and Squamish for the summer!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Trundle City

Surprise: another new Tahoe area. Check out the work we did to reveal a four star V7 called "Ice Crushers."



Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Joel's new boulders - North Shore

If a picture is worth a thousand words, a video is worth a million.



Amazing as usual, Joel!!! Nice work!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

An amazing new highball!

Well, I finally roped down, cleaned and climbed a line I had been spying for years! You may recognize it right away from the video, but first Siemay demonstrates the ultra techy/slopey V6 "Siemay's Arete." Check it:



This new line is one of the most enjoyable tall V7 (ish) lines in all of Tahoe. Siemay and other friends were referring to it as "Noah's Arête" while I was working it and cleaning it, and the name stuck. I generally do not like eponymous titles, but my arête there is big and Siemay's arête right there is small and the thought of the two Arêtes just sitting there together for all time seemed kinda rad. Is that corny or what!!? I guess having a son makes you a little sentimental!

It is V7 off the ground, to 12a, to 5.11a to the top which is about 30 feet.



The crux, above. Very cool moves on good rock!


On massive jugs right here, a good rest and then a 5.9 big move to the top and an easy but airy top out!

Siemay's arête, from the video, is about 20 feet away from this roadside monster. There are some other climbs at this "locals spot" that will be included in the upcoming Tahoe guidebooks.

This area is high up in Woodfords, above the curves on Hwy 88, a couple miles west of Momma Cat right off the north side of the road. The big split boulder is just down the road from Sorensen's and Hope Valley Cafe (the cafe is owned by Lisa and has the BEST baked goods in the Tahoe region... There are also sandwiches and local beer on tap for a post epic highball celebration brew!!)

Call me anytime to do this thing! It is mega and I can rally mad pads, set up a proper TR and bring the psych!

...In other news, the Tahoe crew is coming together and doing new FA's all over: Joel Zerr has two new badass lines above white lines; one is tall and burly and one is short and burly.

Also, I added a cool V9 sit start to the "Great White" problem at middle Bliss yesterday.

The snow is melting fast and psych is high for another rad Tahoe spring season! Updates to come.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Motion on Monzonite

Back from Joe's and feeling fit (but a little heavy at 190 lb!) I decided to cruise down to Bishop to hook up with my buddy Jon Thompson who has been living there. Jon has been capturing some super crushers doing there thing.

Here are some of them in a preview to Jon's new film, "Motion on Monzonite."


Nice work Jake! Such a cool line. I need to get on this thing.

Jon and I had a blast. We had the Buttermilks all to ourselves. Although it was a little warm in the sun, the shade offered nice temps. After a nice warm up session the night before, we headed up to Matt Wilder's epic line: "This Side Of Paradise" V10 Highball. Really highball.

This line is so good. I rapped down it and rehearsed the 5.7 top several times for a warm up. Then I did the long move at the transition. The climb favors a taller frame and I worked out the moves fairly quickly. I tried the rig from the ground several times, but mostly jumped off. We only had two pads, and now that I have a son, blah blah blah, yeah, I pussed out.
Mad props to Matt for his SOLO (ie. by himself send, and practical free solo) first ascent of this amazing world class line.

Here's Nalle crushing:


After TSOP, I went to try my hand at "A Maze of Death" V12. I had tried this beautiful line a couple times in the past, but I could never find beta that worked for me. I finally feel I made some progress and have a method that will work for me that involves long reaches bypassing the small sharp razors. I felt the session on it was productive. I was inspired to get back on it after Tahoe legend, Jesse Bonin sent the rig a few years back after posting up there and dedicating days to this amazing Dave Graham line.

Here is a bunch of dudes making it look doable nay easy:



Finally, the last day, Jon and I were beat and decided to do some moderates. The best of the lot was a newish V7 that Matt Birch apparently added to the Peabody boulder, although something tells me that the "Go Granny Ho" variation has been done many times before. It's kind of obvious and right there.

Here is Local Lisa and Jon demonstrating:


Nice.

I did this problem as well, but did the long man first move instead of messing with the shouldery underlings.

Check it:







Etc.

Doing this line made me want to piece together "The Mystery" which I have tried before. It was magical to have the Buttermilks all to ourselves and a nice way to end the Bishop season and get ready for the Tahoe spring season.

Now who wants to rally a crew to finish off "This Side of Paradise?!"

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Joe's Valley 2012

This was a really fun trip this year! Although somewhat of a rehabilitation trip for most of us, we met bunch of interesting new people and got to climb on some really cool new climbs:

Joe's 2012:



After coming out to Joe's in March this year we met up with our good friends Matt & Sandy Wilder and David Outcalt.

It was also very cool to see Matt and Sandy's boy Bayes play with our boy Zun!

Climbing highlights of the trip included a couple really cool v9s for Siemay, a bunch of cool new v10 problems such as death scream and lactation station for the boys, and a few really nice new climbs; fear factor V9 and how the West was won also v9 & highball (and four stars.) All are highly recommended.

Also very cool was meeting up with the Salt Lake City crew: Scott, Chad, Joe, Blake, Griffen and Duffy. Our good friend Kyle O'Meara and his friend Lisa also showed up later in the trip. Kyle made short work of the amazing new v10 on left fork called "superman" for the 2nd. He also basically did Black Dahlia in a couple tries, but I dabbed him accidentally on a concerned spot. ...Don't you hate that?

Here is the young and strong Griffen making the first ascent of this rad problem found and cleaned by an old friend and legend, Steven Jeffery:

Superman V10

The Salt Lake crew is hilarious and taught us how to "Tatonka" something and also validated my suspicion that other climbers independtently implemented the "Lookback" technique (although I may still have the lockdown on "the pump.")

To wit:

Beyond Life V10

And...

Bunny Crushers V9

Lol, anyway...

It's nice to be back in shape, and it looks like Tahoe may have an early spring season! The locals are getting excited! It's a bummer that the Mandala broke in other news, but there're so many other classics to climb that it's hard to complain too much.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Winter Doldrums

Well, it seems like it happens every year about this time... I get into a rut. I climb on plastic once a week and am generally less motivated. Of course I want to road trip and see new things, but Tahoe is mostly socked in and with Siemay working and little Zun around the options are just not amazing.

I could be hitting Bishop, but I'm just not into the bleeding anymore. Everything that I have left to do there costs blood, sweat and tears and most of all pain.

So enjoy a couple random photos! I should be training for Joes in a couple weeks, but I can't force myself... check it:

Siemay rockin' down in B-town!



Siemay tribute day.




David O EVO




May may some v8




Siemay crushing Beefcake, V10




Wha, Wha, Whoa...




Back in the day:




Smooth J. Heal well, buddy!




Me on Iron Resolution





If you like this type of random photo media post, let me know in the comments and I can post more of these content poor posts!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Fresh Tips V8

This is another sweet little filler line at the amazing Soda Springs area. along with Soul Glow V10, White Stallion V10, Pre Season V9 & Tears of Tammy Faye Baker V9, Fresh Tips V8 is a must do Tahoe neo-classic.

Here is some video from Jon Thompson, the artist formerly known as "Red."



Jake Novotny climbs in style!

Thanks to Paul Otis for reinvigorating this forgotten area which is filled with new gems!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Kraft Rocks Visit

Well, we went to Red Rocks.

Tired of sharp litttle Bishop crimps, ridiculous crowds and nothing but really hard projects left to do; we passed through B town just long enough to visit with some old friends.

Then, it was off to Red Rocks and sandstone boulders! although we have bouldered there many times before, this trip opened our eyes to some new school gems, and lines to go back for.

Here is our friend, Alex Johnson, on a super classic, huecoey problem called "Bitch Slap 5" V9:



What a fun line! It is about a hundred feet back and directly above Monkey Bars. Classic resistance. HIGHLY RECOMMEND!

We met up with Kenny B. and Mike Doyle along with the Alex's (Johnson and Honnold.). You will not be surprised to learn that crushing ensued. AJ actually did a cool V12 and seemed to be in good form. She and Honnold both did the classic Ethan line "Stand And Deliver" V11 in just a few goes. There were many other proud sends, that we did not witness.

For my part, I repeated a seldom done Moulin dyno called "Taurine" above the Tsunami block at Red Springs. It really fit me and felt about V9, as it is graded, but I did it in a few tries. I did have to Try Hard!

Another highlight of the trip was seeing our old friend from medical school, Ed Kwon. Ed is strong as always despite being in "route shape" and finishing up his fellowship in Trauma Surgery. He was telling us about his cool V12 GSW surgeries where he beat the clock and saved lives and limbs. So cool. Additionally, We got to stay with Leanna, who we know as a climber form Ohio. Her and her husband, Adam, have a real nice spot out in Blue Diamond.

Siemay did some great problems too. Names and grades, unknown, but I can tell that after six months, she has gotten back her strength and is excited to work some tougher lines again.

Zun is Zun. smiley, happy, and now fond of the taste of earthy sandstone!

Vegas is a strange place indeed, but I really like the bouldering, and its a nice break from the Bishop scene that we are so used to.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

The Voodoo Stones: January in Tahoe

Dave Hatchett found an excellent new zone that climbers have mostly overlooked for decades. These blocks, behind Fallen Leaf Lake, have seen some traffic and some of the easier lines and moderates were likely done, but many of the boulders remained undeveloped.

check out some classic FA's we put up on flawless stone:



There were about 3 great sessions out there before the snows finally came. we have a couple mega lines left that will most likely get done next summer or fall depending on when the snow melts.

Even baby Zun made the arduous hike to bask in the warm January Tahoe sun. Great video by John Thompson.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

January 19th Dyno

Well, it's over. The epic season that will go down in the history books. It happens once every 20 years or so I have heard, but this year there was literally NO snow in Tahoe until today.

The last day of the season was a fun jaunt up to the Zephyrs, a vast area given to us by the legendary Jay Sell. Jay keeps contributing to the Tahoe scene and is basically one of the main players who has made Tahoe what it is today. when you see him, thank him!

Anyway, here is a sweet dyno that I put up in the V7-V9 range. Horrible pasty feet and a really cool one-pad hand and a half edge to generate from. TRICKY! I called this one "January 19th" to commemorate the last blustery climbing day in the Tahoe 2012 season.

Check out the problem:



I also added an really cool morpho technical v6 with an amazing start hold that I called "The Entrepeneur."

Additionally, I put up the sit to "Titty grabber" V8. I did not name this problem, but the line is sick and is solid V8 slopey compression. You do have to use a heel-n-toe cam with another boulder that is unavoidable... Despite this fact, and based on movement alone, this climb is three stars! (Well, maybe 2+ for the snobs out there. You know who you are.)

...Near term climbing plans include Joe's, Bishop, Vegas and Doyle.

Won't you join us?

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

The Mountain Beavers

Local Brad Perry just tweaked his ankle at the new climbing gym and had some time on his hands so he put up this awesome edit of the

Check it:

http://vimeo.com/35352687

Included is the 4 star V10 "Integrity" by first ascensionist, Jarrad Wycoff.

The Mtn Beavers are quite secluded and beautiful and home to some really stellar Tahoe stone.

sorry about your ankle, Brad! But it looks like the snow came today anyway. January 19th. I named a new problem after today's date in commemoration! I'll have a video up soon. it's a V7 dyno on the East shore.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Location:Christmas Valley, Tahoe

An amazing season

The Ronin Project. V13? When will it go?


Vaporized V11. amazing new addition! South Bliss


One of the amazing Fallen Leaf Boulders


A Perfect local boulder near Sawmill Pond


John Sitting beneath "Pure Gold" V7 stand, project sit (V10, almost done!)


January 14th and the season is finally almost over. Sadly, there are big storms forecast for next week.

Hopefully, it barely snows and the spring season is Mega. There are so many projects to do, it's kind of ridiculous.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Voodoo Birthday V7

Here is a new 3 star moderate sloper compression line on perfect granite:

First Asent Dave Hatchett & Jimmy Hayden. Sick Bawse!

















Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Location:Tahoe

New 4 star project

Tahoe, January 12th. the best season EVER!




Wow.



V10 sit, V8 stand. HIGHBALL


New lines going up everyday... Two new areas, so much great stone! A little cold sometimes, but look at Jon above in his t shirt. Tahoe in January!

WTF?

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Location:Fallen Leaf Lake

Team Asana in Yosemite

Here is an awesome video from Team Asana. This must be the product testing crew since the pads get some abuse from some tall Yosemite falls!



Big hat tip to Joel Zerr for another fine, palm-sweating good time.

Classic tall and clean, there is no other place like Yosemite.

Climbers are Joel, Kyle, Hannah, and Charles. Sicky!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Freakish Weather

January 1st: no snow in Tahoe. Perfect conditions, t-shirts. Siemay, little Zun and I spent New Years day climbing with good friends at the FREAKS. Here; check it out:



These problems were fun to revisit, and this was Joel, Jon and Zun's first time there. I am sad to report that Zun has made little progress in the way of climbing... Maybe he will have to learn to crawl first after all.

Anyway, after a sick day, and an amazing baller twilight flash of the classic "Yeti" V9 by Mr. Zerr, the crew hit up Kirkwood in for a rustic meal that warmed the soul. There was rib eye, salmon and tortellini along with seared ahi and good stout beer. Laughter and merriment abounded in the establishment.

Hell yeah! This is what life is all about...

Happy new year everyone! Hopefully the snow stays away forever. What a sick sick season.

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

(the sunrise from outside my work yesterday!)

Deja Vu V9

This amazing boulder has been climbed on by all the legendary climbers of the Tahoe region. Visiting climbers and locals alike are psyched on the rock quality and sublime granite movement...

There are now 21 boulder problems on the classic roadside Momma Cat boulder. Can you do them all?



Team Asana Ninja Kyle O'Meara demos... There are several updated lines on the momma cat:

1. Blue Star V7: start as for classic west face v2, work up and left on delicate slab moves, gain small right hand crimp in seam and dyno to top. Fun.

2. Headband V7: same start as last prob, but turn arête to join with finish of Dano's line. Really cool movement getting around the arête!

3. Sour Diesel V6: start as for classic v5 sit on north face (same as in video above) work up and right to join Dano's finish.

4. Deja Vu Half V9: see video above!

5. Deja Vu V10: start on right arête, same as Dano's start, climb up a couple moves, work straight left into Deja Vu Half, same finish.

...Yeah, I know it's a traverse. It's flippin' rad. Shut up and go try it, it's awesome!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Rocklands from LT11

Our friends at Louder Than 11's excellent blog bring you this sick piece of motivation.

Straight Out Of Africa - FEATURE LENGTH from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

I have been to Rocklands twice and have personally done some of these exquisite lines. This place is insane fun. My favorite personal sends were Black Velvet, Gliding and the 5 star Shosholoza, potential contender for the best problem in the world.

My recommendation is to get into amazing shape (best if you can climb v12) and go sample true 4 star climbing at its best.

Wow, my hands are sweating and I can't wait to get back to Mother Africa!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Team Asana in B-town

Truly great editing from Jon Thompson.

Check it out:



Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Avoid The Wart V8

This is a problem Jarrad Wycof and I Put up a little ways back. It's at a sick Jesse Bonin area called the Beavers in south lake. Ultra accessible, this classic little area is a couple minutes from the car down at an obvious pullout/river cross on the left at the end of south upper truckee rd in Myers.

Many classic lines at all grades, and, we discovered, cleaned and did some new problems on a new boulder left untouched by the original development spree.

It's mid December and we are cranking in Tahoe with no snow! Awesome. I hope it never snows, though all my snowboard/ski buddies are all butthurt right about now.

Here's a cute pic of little Zun in his favorite Bruce lee outfit...

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

My best Spotting Send

My best spot ever:



Here's a classic! I've been dredging up some old footage, and this is James Litz climbing Fuc Yo, a sweet V9 at Hounds Ears.

It was wet that day and James fell off the last move, although this was an easy problem for him.

Luckily, I was there to catch him!

I would grade this spot at V9 onsight.

Unfortunately, it broke my nose... But James Lived!

I believe spotting is a skill, just like climbing or falling. Remember to train your spotting! focus on the climbers movement and center body-mass, not there hands, etc.

Try Hard to catch them at their center body-mass or at least take weight off their descent.


...I did send this climb as well and it is amazing!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Vaporized V11

You gotta see this amazing new line:


Vaporized from Joel Zerr on Vimeo.

An amazing new line in Lake Tahoe. Jon Thompson and Dave Ficter found this mega gem the same day they found pure bliss. I later cleaned this line up, and Red (Jon) and I started to work on it in the summer heat. Charlie B even tried a little in summer, and despite being his steeze, the sweltering conditions kept this project in plum-state until early this fall when Joel and Kyle went into attack mode. Sadly, Red had broken his hand, I had torqued my shoulder (or wait no... Maybe this is when Zun was born...), and Charles... Well, Charles went to Utah to climb cracks. So we will all have to go back to do this Tahoe test piece!

Amazing edit by Zerr Productions as usual.

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

The Ronin Project

This is the awesome Ronin power project in South Lake that is likely V13 or more.


The Ronin Project is the sit start moves into a really nice V7 stand problem called the Last Samurai. It is an open project and super cool. Think you can do it?



Here's a little video of the project and another sweet V9 on the same boulder called "Double Dragon."

This boulder is South of Markleeville, CA off Hwy 4, a couple miles past monitor pass take off.  it is on the East side of the Rd. in a drainage just before a bridge and a chossy sport climbing area.  The sport climbs are mostly good and the crag has about 20 routes.  It is called the "True Value" crag.  The
Ronin is about 2 minutes from the car park.  Steep & Fun!  Get some!



Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Holy $#!?, Kyle

Kyle O'Meara is (still) on fire. Lord have mercy, when will it end? See the vid and read the comments.

Midnight Lightning - flash v9
Thriller - flash v10 (holy crap!)
The Force - flash v9
Wall to Wall Carpet - flash v9
No Holds Bard - flash v7
Spanish Fly - flash v8
Moffat Start - flash v9
Don't Make Me kick your ass - flash v9
The Diamond - flash v8
Once Upon a Time - flash v3
Woodyard Arete - flash v6
Bruce Lee v8
Bates' Problem v5
Heart of Darkness v9
Good Vibrations v10
Across the Tracks v10
Cocaine Corner v6
6 Degrees v9
Pride v9
Diesel Power v10


Solo in the Valley from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.


and...


Two days in Yosemite from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.


...This is all over a couple weeks. I have been climbing in the valley for a long time and have never heard of anything like this. I saw Daniel Woods wrestle with Thriller all day in good temps. I am psyched for Kyle, this may indeed only be the beginning!

This is what happens when strength and expert technique come together.

Kyle has also told me he feels the grades are right on with respect to his Tahoe experience.

Incidentally, I spent last weekend with Kyle in Bishop. Besides splitting a tip after almost doing the Mandala second go; with tape, he flashed Fall Guy v9 and did stained glass sit v10 in a couple goes...

Bow down!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Kyle @ Soda Springs

Cool video about a solo mission that Kyle took to Soda Springs. More great Tahoe stone that is so much fun to climb!


Donner Summit Boulders from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.

By the way, it's December and there is no snow in Tahoe! We went bouldering today at a rad new Jay Sell area and it was perfect conditions. I hope it never snows!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Psyched!

Tell me this doesn't make you want to climb in Tahoe...



Hat tip to Red for another fine contribution. Most of the Tahoe crew is elsewhere this week because of snow. A Bunch of us are headed back to Bishop to hit the gold stone and grow the much needed super-leather. More to come.

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Baby Zun & Siemay

From our most recent sojourn to Bishop!



Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Sneak Attack V9

The boyz are at it again!



I've gotta get out there and do this thing! ...Looks so cool.

Sicky edit, Red!

There are now over 1000 problems at Sugar Pine, the guide is 95% done and should be ready for next season. Go buy a mountain bike!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Army of Darkness V9

This is an awesome new problem that Joel Zerr and I put up this summer. It's really amazing and super fun with a spectacular move to a horrible hold. This problem was a new addition at Jesse Bonin's camouflage forest and is on the Bruce Campbell boulder; A mega V5 also showcased in Joel's video. Joel has a real talent for video editing and I can't wait to see what else he "throws together!". ...I highly recommend checking out his other vids.

We are in Bishop for the week with a Frenchy, D.O., Zerr & O'meara the assassin. I am healing a tweaked shoulder but Siemay is back at it. She sent a three-star V7 yesterday at the beavers called "one eyed Willy." I hope to go back and film her on this rad line.

I plan on posting a bunch of smaller posts with media and pics over the meat of the season to keep us PSYCHED!

The weather is good, people are motivated, Zun is growing like a weed and work is on the back burner as the season kicks into high gear!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Welcome To The Future

Well, Red done broke his hand. Mtn bike mishap leaving sugar 3... But, like the trooper he is, he's still rallying with the crew and has turned his focus on filming and editing.

Here's our session on Jesse Bonin's awesome "Welcome to the Future"



A true Tahoe test piece of slopey compression.

Get some!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Sugar season in full swing

From Red:



Curtain call is a new rad V11 jump start that Kyle O'Meara put up at sugar 2. Kyle has really hit his stride! After an impressive 2nd try ascent of The Ashtray V11 and Blast Off V10 and Sneak Attack Low V9 and 3rd go second ascent of Focal Point V10 last weekend, this weekend he did Ground Control V11 in a session, Welcome to the Future V11 in a session, Pure Bliss V9, he flashed Integrity sit V9, flashed Pimp Juice V9 and flashed the technical American Hero V9 in the sun! He also did all the moves to the stand start of the Creekbed proj at South Bliss which he could not quite finish off but felt to be V12. The first move has still not gone, but the whole shebang will likely weigh in at V13. Great climbing Kyle! (try to hear Cartman's voice when reading about Kyle's achievements and you'll be psyched.)

Joel and I made great progress on Welcome to the future, Joel fell off the last move from the start several times and will polish it off soon. we both did the stand (V9 called "The Future Present") and I linked into the stand. I can't wait to do this thing... I can't believe I haven't done this one yet either as it is right there near the road and only 25 mins from the homestead. Great line, Jesse! A Four star climb indeed; one of the best in Tahoe.

Here's an Ian Cotter-Brown vid of Welcome to the Future et Alia:



Just a comment on grades: I'm not sure what consensus is for many of these things... I know on 8a, many climbers take Welcome to the Future as a 12. I think it's 12 in Ian's video, too. If I compare it to a Font climb, or dirty south climb it feels like 8a to me in good conditions. Like the Egg in Squamish, but not as hard as Dominator or other 12s I've worked on/done. Who knows? Also, it's in the range of +\- 1 grade, so who cares... Just hope not to offend anyone who took 12 on this rig, maybe it is! Doesn't really matter though since it's a 4 star classic. I think that should be the main emphasis anyhow. I'd love to hear thoughts on this in the comment section if you care to opine. I also thought Focal Point was a 9 banger since I FA'd the thing in the sun. Who knows. With Yosemite so close, where grades are generally stout, many a Bay area strongman has felt some Tahoe grades to be soft, although I think they are on par with most other areas in the world, actually.

Anyhow, The Season is in full swing. Apparently, Jesse sent his V11/12 project up at the Triads (upper Mtn beavers) and there is a whole lot of new rock being developed way up there! ...The hike is over an hour though, so motivation is a must.

Personally, I did some cool 10's at rock creek: Osama eliminate and the campground arête. I have been doing cool FA's at Sugarpine with Hatchett and crew including "The Anniversary" V9 dyno, "Deadbeat Dad" V8, "Shaft Adapter" V8 (flash), and the super mega "such great heights" V8 (flash.) I am super close on Welcome to the future and really want to go check out the Ashtray, Blast Off, Curtain Call, Sneak Attack Low and the Hercules proj. If I get around to it. This week we are headed down to check out Hartley near Mammoth. Siemay is getting back in shape and moving well on the rock for someone who recently gave birth to a little ninja.

speaking of which, Zun is 9 weeks old and working on grip strength. He is smiling and crying, shitting and sleeping and has already made it out to 5 different climbing spots including a couple with long approaches.

Get psyched, get out there and CRANK!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

The Ashtray

This amazing line is classic. Chris Sharma opened this line many years ago in the Josh Lowell movie "Rampage." Here Kyle O'Meara sends it second try! I spoke with Chris about this line at a recent trade show. He had fond memories of it and asked me if it had seen repeats and how hard it was felt to be. Somehow, I have not done this line yet. After seeing this video, it is back at the top of my list. Film and edit by Joel Zerr who has also done the line several times.

The Ashtray



In other sad news, Steve Jobs has finally lost his life to pancreatic cancer. This amazing human being gave us wonderful gifts, and he changed the world in profound ways. The irony is not lost on me as I write this post from my iPad. Something tells me Steve would have appreciated Kyle's mellifluous movement on this gymnastic Sharma Tahoe classic.


Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Sugarpine Goodness

From Red:




Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Evolv Shoes: Why I use them exclusively

Evolv shoes are the best shoes on the market. This is an opinion. I have been climbing for 20 years now and used just about every kind of shoes along the way.  From beginner to expert, Evolv provides the best climbing shoe experience period.

 FULL DISCLOSURE: I get free Evolv gear/shoes. However, as a physician, the cost of these items is insignificant and I would only climb in/use the best gear possible. I have been a Pontas man for several years now; they are the only shoes I would wear. Now however, there are several other options that I employ in my climbing that I shall review in detail. I am very loyal to my sponsors, but I actually had to switch to Evolv from MadRock since I felt I could not ethically endorse MadRock's products since they did not work well for me and my climbing style.

Here are some of the amazing, amazing shoes that Evolv offers:

From left to right these are: 1. "Ollie" flip-flop 2. Shaman 3. Bandit SC 4. Pontas. Here is another view:

What makes Evolv shoes the best on the market?

 1. Wearability. These shoes perform right out of the box and only get better. They exhibit the shortest break-in period of any shoe I have ever worn. They fit like a glove and are by far the best balance between sensitivity and strength of any shoe I have ever tried.

2. Durability. These shoes last. Unlike 5.10's (Which I also love) which break down easily and last a month or less, Evolv products last until the rubber is climbed off, and then through the re-sole, too. Because of their lifespan, the cost of the shoe represents a better value in a money to longevity perspective. These shoes also smell less than other shoes I have used, for what it's worth.

 3. Comfort. This seems to be a foot shape issue and therefore a personal attribute, however, I have noted that people don't take their Evolvs off at the crag. This can actually reduce the life of the shoe, but it is great for the gym and is evidence of the glove-like feel of Evolv shoes.

 4. Customer Service. Have you tried to talk to some shoe companies about returns, sizing, advice, etc? I have heard overwhelmingly that Evolv rocks in this dept. and can attest to it from personal experience. I switched shoe sponsors several years ago partially for this reason, and partially because Madrock climbs horribly on granite.

 5. Philosophy. Evolv is not about climbing hard and being the best. Sure they have Chris and other bad-ass role-models on the team, but Evolv is about fun and adventure and fulfilment in the climbing lifestyle. This philosophy makes them focus on quality above anything else. Like Apple's iPad, iPhone, etc. Evolv has made products that have brand appeal.

Specifics of the Evolv shoes I wear:

 The new Shaman is Sick, as is the Bandit SC. These shoes solve the sole (no pun intended) problem that I used to have as a Pontas guy: The heelhooking was lackluster. Now, with the Shaman's I feel like I finally have THE PERFECT SHOE. No real gimmicks, just the most solid shoe I have ever worn. I use Shaman's for steep and hard projects/routes, Bandits for techy and thin with heeling, Pontas for all around/warm-up/climbing up to V8, flops for easy approach/post-approach/easy warm-up between burn lounging.

The Ollie flop is great, I will admit that through the years, I have always loved the La Sportiva flop. In fact, I still think it is a better flop than Evolv's, however, I believe it has been discontinued. The Evolv flops are a little too soft for performance, although I have still done up to v6 in them comfortably. I also am a size 14, so I wear the 13's and this could contribute to my thoughts. The Ollie is growing on me.

 Here is a video of Evolv shoes doing what they do best on Tahoe's epic 4 star "Ground Control" V11:

 

BOTTOM LINE: Evolvs are the best shoes in the world for rock climbing. They excel on granite, the rubber is the best by far: hard enough to grab a penny-edge jib, supple enough to push into a techy smedge or sandstone smear. If you are trying to improve at rockclimbing, even as a beginner, Evolv shoes will take your climbing to the next level.

 Peruse products and order here. Tell them Noah sent you!

 Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Focal Point V10

Here's a new video from Red detailing a sick day of slaughter at sugar 1. This symphony of sending was performed by transplant and local by proxy, Kyle O'Meara. Boom.




Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Location:Sugga

Meyers Climbing Festival

Should be fun!




















Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Tahoe Photos

Brian Arnold on Global Warming, V9 @ Eratica




















Jesse Bonin on the FA of Milk Money, V12 @ Crater Lake, Tahoe










Crater lake boulder...

























Brian Arnold on Smooth Boy Slim, V9 @ Burnside























Me on Sisyphus, V8 @ Sugarpine




















Siemay Lee on Skull Fucker, V9 @ Sugarpine




















David Outcalt on Alcatraz, V10 @ Prison Hill






















All or Nothing, V10 (tentative) @ The Mountain Beavers. photo Brad Perry



















Welcome to The Future, V11 (photos Doug Ayers)
























Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Getting Psyched

Well, the season is just around the corner. My little man, Zun is growing and crying and keeping us up at nights, but that hasn't stopped the climbing from happening. Siemay has even gotten out for a session! So much has gone down, so many new things. Joel Zerr and I went to May Lake in Tuolumne and did some amazing high alpine climbing on quartzite. We also visited the Camouflage Forest and added one of Tahoe's best new V9's: Army of Darkness. Joel is putting together a sick video and I will post it here soon. Yesterday we hit Sugarpine 2 and did some FA's and repeated some amazing new classics: Here's the FA by Kyle O'meara and some other classics with Red and Jimmy Haden: also, here is a sick new one move power problem that I did called the Anniversary, probably a 9 or a 10... we'll need some repeats to tell for sure:

There are new amazing lines going up everywhere. Also, I just heard from Jesse Bonin that he is working on a 55 ft. V12 roof in Tuolumne!!! Life is good, go out and get some! Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Mountain Beavers Video

From Red:



For a change of scenery, I went back to the Mtn. Beavers with Joel and Red to do some new stuff. Joel repeated the sit to Jarrad's amazing "Integrity" problem and Red did the stand. I mostly spectated and toured all morning as baby duty has me fairly sleep-deprived and ragged. I did "sack up" for the first descent of a sick highball proud widow-maker (see video.) Clay and Laura showed up for a minute and did some moderate lines. Clay also tried and looked great on Integrity. Joel also hiked and found a futuristic squeeze line that needs cleaning.

By afternoon, however, it was a different story for me; psych was high and I was ready to do some new things.

The first new line I did I named "varigation" after the multi-colored, spotted wall that it's on just to the left of Integrity. It's a fun v5 move to a cool top-out. It's hard for V5, but it can't be harder, can it?! None of us flashed it, and Red didn't even do it. Anyway, You tell me.

The second new line I did was super rad. "Cat Reflexic" V7. This line opens with double left hand campusing out an overhang buldge with a bad right crimp and a huge left jug. There are no feet. The landing is not good and might necessitate ninja-ing the landing... You have to land like a cat. That being said, I did not feel the actual climbing was that hard, maybe hard V7. It would be good to get consensus on both these lines, as usual.

Both these new lines are in Red's video above. I tried to imagine the grades as they would feel in good conditions, though they both felt 2 grades harder in 80 degree weather on slopers.

I look forward to Jarrad, Jesse and David O returning from their May Lake trip for a report and to open some new lines at this stellar new area.

BTW, here is some beta on the Future Boulder (near the saddle) from our close friends at BETABASE.

Zun is doing well adjusting to home-life, he is nursing well and he actually let us sleep for 4 hours straight this morning!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Pool Service V5 & a new South shore zone...

Here's a sweet new Jesse Bonin video detailing some spring/summer fun on classic Tahoe moderates:

Tahoe Moderates from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.

The first problem showcased is a sweet line I put up a couple seasons ago at Eratica. Called "Pool Service" in honor of Big Dave Nunley, God Dammit. dave found it and got me psyched on it. I called it V5, but it may be harder actually. It's all about sloper control, and it's a great line, indeed.

The other problems are also sweet and should be done if you are here for a while or are looking for sweet lines in the more moderate range.

In other news, there is a sick new area in south lake that Jarrad Wycoff discovered. He and Jesse have been picking plums and doing trail work while I've been up doing new stuff on the North Shore. It's hot everywhere and the skeeters are horrible this year. that being said, everyone is PSYCHED and the crew is in the best summer-shape ever. Fall should be epic. special mention about Jarrad Wycoff: Jarrad done got STRONG! He also just put up a 5 star line at his new area, the Moutain Beavers. This new line, called "Integrity" V7 stand, 9 sit, is the best compression line I have seen since Pine Box, V11 in Yosemite. Great job, Jarrad! ...Animal.

This new area reminds me of Sugarpine area 1. supposedly there are 4 areas though, and I've only seen one. I'll try to get some pics and video ASAP. Jesse, David O, Jarrad and others are going down to Yosemite to May Lake to check out some Matt Arnold goodness this weekend. Jesse and D.O. are gearing up for an extended 10 month road trip, and they are super stoked.

Zun is home now and has much to learn. His ninja training has begun though!

Get out there and destroy!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Zun Lee Kaufman

Boom.

Welcome little man! Time to work on crimp strength...

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Sky

My friend Ethan has done "Sky" V14, This is the image above that is the background for the title of this blog. Here is the video and then some background:

Sky V14 from Ethan Pringle on Vimeo.

...The first year we went to Rocklands, Our friends Cody Roth and his friend Bernie ran me around the newly developed "Austrian Sector" currently known as Klienfontaine. He showed me the uber projects that their crew had been getting close on, namely, "Sky" (As Bernie named it,) and the cracked egg project, an amazing V11 that I opened the following season and named "The Hatchling."

These problems are two of the finest in the world. Period. We originally tried Sky as a straight up massive dyno, and Bernie and I independently felt it was V12 from the stand and we both tried the huge dyno method as depicted on the main intro photo on this blogsite. We got close, but no cigar.

The next season I came back stronger and took Daniel and Paul there right away. The race was on! Those guys did the stand after some effort, Paul after a few days, Daniel did they FA of the stand 3rd go and then the sit a few days later. I kept trying the long dyno method since I felt that would fit me better and since I did not feel strong enough to gymnastically grab the left open hand hold as Ethan does in this video.

After Sky went down, Paul and I happened to be at the Hatchling proj giving it goes. Paul was 4th day on with terrible skin and I somehow snaked the FA from him.
...Like that'll ever happen again! Look at this beautiful line:

Noah Kaufman's The Hatchling (V11). Photo by Zlu Haller / www.chalkjunkie.at

Congratulations to Ethan for strong work on one of the best problems in the world. I will train diligently to do it when I return to South Africa, however, the sad truth is that Sky may exceed my personal limit.

...But maybe if I try hard enough...

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Isaac Palatt

I'd like to share a great blog about Black Mountian bouldering and more from a friend I met in Squamish in 2006, Isaac Palatt. I really get psyched reading his blog, and it affords ample material for serious motivation! Check it out: Isaac's Blog

In Tahoe news, We had a fun day in hot temps up at the "Hole in the Ground" area. Joel put up another sweet line on the "Joelder" at the Danger Zone area. About V8ish. I warmed up on "Soul Glow stand and re-opened my split tip. together with warm temps, White Stallion did not go, though I did the moves for Joel's new FLIP video recorder (a sweet gift from Chris Schulte and Jackie Hueftle!)

Visiting climbers Chris Schulte and Jackie Hueftle joined the crew for the day, but sadly, had to deal with gnar temps. Eventually, we had to go to the Saddle. Joel, Chris, Red and David O and I all seshed down on the HUGE dyno. An amazing amazing dyno that I think Sharma did first(?) I have done this throw like 10 times, but have never walked up and done it first try. Today was no exception, however, after 3-4 tries, Joel and I had repeated the massive move. Chris, new to the line, threw himself again and again, tenaciously and finally stuck the jug. We all think it's about V9.

Jackie took some video, so I'll link it when she edits...

Waiting for the baby and the split tip to heal. I think we will be setting up some rad water slacklines at some secret coves up at the lake. I can't wait to walk a big water line up there in this heat!

...Carry on.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Soul Glow V10

It's not every day that "The best problem in Tahoe" goes up, so I am psyched to report that it recently happened (again.) This Joel Zerr problem is MEGA. The stand at V5 is Proud a hell and 4 stars. The sit, that Joel and I have done, is V10 and is one of the coolest lines I have ever done. It's basically like "White Lines" on steroids. I thought it was a bit easier, perhaps V9 for tall climbers as I was able to skip a hard move. The climb is sustained though, and climbs brilliantly. Here is Red's video of the line:



There is also a left variation that is just as cool and hard, but slightly less aesthetic. It is called "White Stallion" V10 and I will do it tomorrow. It shares the first 2 moves and then busts into a v9 power sequence with an amazing exit!

GOOD JOB JOEL! ...Such a rad contribution.

This climbing is at a rediscovered old area at the Soda Springs exit past Boreal on Hwy 80. Mucho Kudos to Paul Otis for bringing new life to this area and opening some radical lines. Paul has a keen eye and cleaned "White Stallion" V10. Solo and without pads though, Paul left the line a project. Paul was nice enough to share his findings, some of the best rock/lines in Tahoe with the rest of us and we went and repeated/opened some great great problems!

Red (Jon Thompson) took an incredible fall in this video. It's hard to really tell how genuinely sketchy it was. I was spotting him and I may have saved his life, a send for me that was just as cool as the amazing problem from which Red fell (Soul Glow.)

Jimmy Haden put up an incredible V6 called "The Green Machine" that is techy as hell. Dave Ficter and I got bouted in the sun, though we did all the moves easily enough. ...The same thing happened on an unrepeated T.O.M. Fern face V8 just to the Right of Joel's immaculate "Soul Glow."

There is plenty more to do at this newold area. Tai and Fern walked us a 1/2 mile into desolation, bushwhacking, to see an amazing tall and proud line that will likely be v11.

So much good rock!

Siemay is 38 weeks, so our little man is coming any day now. We have a little tent for him so the skeeters and sun don't get him while mom & dad climb.

This will be a whole new boulder problem, one that I look forward too immensely!

...Wish us luck...

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

High Priority & Focal Point

Despite the heat and mosquitos in Tahoe, the scene is bumping. Sugarpine has been seeing a lot of action lately. Here is another video from Jon "Red" Thompson (who I just sewed up in my kitchen... RECKLESS.) It details some Sugar classics High Priority V7 and Focal Point V9 (or 8 and 10 depending on who you ask.) Here it is:



New problems:

I did "Focal Point," formerly the "Beastiality" project. This is the amazing "epic project" compression line in Jon's video above. The line is so rad, hat-tip to Matt, Sandy and Bayes Wilder for the psych to get me up the thing in the heat and sun (This is why I'm hesitant to grade it V10, although it bouted many a suitor and it was my 3rd day on it... Consensus is needed!) Special shout to Red for the vision, the heart, the cleaning and the sharing of this extraordinary line.

Matt Wilder finished off the long-standing "Beast" seam project 2nd try. The Beast weighs in at a tentative V8.

I added the direct to "Fortress" bumping the grade to V7, it's called "superfly."

Charlie Barret added "Sneak Attack" V8 (also in the vid, new beta post hold break.)

I added a problem to the Fortress boulder start on fortress underclings and went left = V7, it's called "Butthurt" to commemorate a summer of misery and pain.

Jimmy Hayden added "First Go" an amazing dihedral dyno (or static as Jimmy did it) at Sugar 2.

Also, there is a sick new area up North! Really cool, kind of a rediscovered old area near Castle Peaks. Kudos to Paul Otis for putting up some of Tahoe's best problems here. Joel Zerr just put up THE BEST Highball V5 IN TAHOE, and is about to double the difficulty and number of moves by adding a totally classic sit start. This Line is AMAZING. Joel, Ficter and myself have done all the moves on this instant classic.

Also worth noting is Vitaly's new lines in South Lake. An amazing new V11 highball across from Blitzen! Sick!

I'm feeling strong now. Just in time for our little baby boy!!! He's due any day now and Siemay and I are Psyched!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Red

We got a new playuh on da scene!

Jon "Red" Thompson is only two years into his climbing career, but he is CRUSHING!

He's a good guy to have on the team and has re-invigorated the scene!!! here's a dope video he made chronicling his recent climbing endeavors, and first V8 ascents... Enjoy!



See you out at the boulders!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual