Trundle City

Surprise: another new Tahoe area. Check out the work we did to reveal a four star V7 called "Ice Crushers."



Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Joel's new boulders - North Shore

If a picture is worth a thousand words, a video is worth a million.



Amazing as usual, Joel!!! Nice work!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

An amazing new highball!

Well, I finally roped down, cleaned and climbed a line I had been spying for years! You may recognize it right away from the video, but first Siemay demonstrates the ultra techy/slopey V6 "Siemay's Arete." Check it:



This new line is one of the most enjoyable tall V7 (ish) lines in all of Tahoe. Siemay and other friends were referring to it as "Noah's Arête" while I was working it and cleaning it, and the name stuck. I generally do not like eponymous titles, but my arête there is big and Siemay's arête right there is small and the thought of the two Arêtes just sitting there together for all time seemed kinda rad. Is that corny or what!!? I guess having a son makes you a little sentimental!

It is V7 off the ground, to 12a, to 5.11a to the top which is about 30 feet.



The crux, above. Very cool moves on good rock!


On massive jugs right here, a good rest and then a 5.9 big move to the top and an easy but airy top out!

Siemay's arête, from the video, is about 20 feet away from this roadside monster. There are some other climbs at this "locals spot" that will be included in the upcoming Tahoe guidebooks.

This area is high up in Woodfords, above the curves on Hwy 88, a couple miles west of Momma Cat right off the north side of the road. The big split boulder is just down the road from Sorensen's and Hope Valley Cafe (the cafe is owned by Lisa and has the BEST baked goods in the Tahoe region... There are also sandwiches and local beer on tap for a post epic highball celebration brew!!)

Call me anytime to do this thing! It is mega and I can rally mad pads, set up a proper TR and bring the psych!

...In other news, the Tahoe crew is coming together and doing new FA's all over: Joel Zerr has two new badass lines above white lines; one is tall and burly and one is short and burly.

Also, I added a cool V9 sit start to the "Great White" problem at middle Bliss yesterday.

The snow is melting fast and psych is high for another rad Tahoe spring season! Updates to come.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Motion on Monzonite

Back from Joe's and feeling fit (but a little heavy at 190 lb!) I decided to cruise down to Bishop to hook up with my buddy Jon Thompson who has been living there. Jon has been capturing some super crushers doing there thing.

Here are some of them in a preview to Jon's new film, "Motion on Monzonite."


Nice work Jake! Such a cool line. I need to get on this thing.

Jon and I had a blast. We had the Buttermilks all to ourselves. Although it was a little warm in the sun, the shade offered nice temps. After a nice warm up session the night before, we headed up to Matt Wilder's epic line: "This Side Of Paradise" V10 Highball. Really highball.

This line is so good. I rapped down it and rehearsed the 5.7 top several times for a warm up. Then I did the long move at the transition. The climb favors a taller frame and I worked out the moves fairly quickly. I tried the rig from the ground several times, but mostly jumped off. We only had two pads, and now that I have a son, blah blah blah, yeah, I pussed out.
Mad props to Matt for his SOLO (ie. by himself send, and practical free solo) first ascent of this amazing world class line.

Here's Nalle crushing:


After TSOP, I went to try my hand at "A Maze of Death" V12. I had tried this beautiful line a couple times in the past, but I could never find beta that worked for me. I finally feel I made some progress and have a method that will work for me that involves long reaches bypassing the small sharp razors. I felt the session on it was productive. I was inspired to get back on it after Tahoe legend, Jesse Bonin sent the rig a few years back after posting up there and dedicating days to this amazing Dave Graham line.

Here is a bunch of dudes making it look doable nay easy:



Finally, the last day, Jon and I were beat and decided to do some moderates. The best of the lot was a newish V7 that Matt Birch apparently added to the Peabody boulder, although something tells me that the "Go Granny Ho" variation has been done many times before. It's kind of obvious and right there.

Here is Local Lisa and Jon demonstrating:


Nice.

I did this problem as well, but did the long man first move instead of messing with the shouldery underlings.

Check it:







Etc.

Doing this line made me want to piece together "The Mystery" which I have tried before. It was magical to have the Buttermilks all to ourselves and a nice way to end the Bishop season and get ready for the Tahoe spring season.

Now who wants to rally a crew to finish off "This Side of Paradise?!"

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Joe's Valley 2012

This was a really fun trip this year! Although somewhat of a rehabilitation trip for most of us, we met bunch of interesting new people and got to climb on some really cool new climbs:

Joe's 2012:



After coming out to Joe's in March this year we met up with our good friends Matt & Sandy Wilder and David Outcalt.

It was also very cool to see Matt and Sandy's boy Bayes play with our boy Zun!

Climbing highlights of the trip included a couple really cool v9s for Siemay, a bunch of cool new v10 problems such as death scream and lactation station for the boys, and a few really nice new climbs; fear factor V9 and how the West was won also v9 & highball (and four stars.) All are highly recommended.

Also very cool was meeting up with the Salt Lake City crew: Scott, Chad, Joe, Blake, Griffen and Duffy. Our good friend Kyle O'Meara and his friend Lisa also showed up later in the trip. Kyle made short work of the amazing new v10 on left fork called "superman" for the 2nd. He also basically did Black Dahlia in a couple tries, but I dabbed him accidentally on a concerned spot. ...Don't you hate that?

Here is the young and strong Griffen making the first ascent of this rad problem found and cleaned by an old friend and legend, Steven Jeffery:

Superman V10

The Salt Lake crew is hilarious and taught us how to "Tatonka" something and also validated my suspicion that other climbers independtently implemented the "Lookback" technique (although I may still have the lockdown on "the pump.")

To wit:

Beyond Life V10

And...

Bunny Crushers V9

Lol, anyway...

It's nice to be back in shape, and it looks like Tahoe may have an early spring season! The locals are getting excited! It's a bummer that the Mandala broke in other news, but there're so many other classics to climb that it's hard to complain too much.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Winter Doldrums

Well, it seems like it happens every year about this time... I get into a rut. I climb on plastic once a week and am generally less motivated. Of course I want to road trip and see new things, but Tahoe is mostly socked in and with Siemay working and little Zun around the options are just not amazing.

I could be hitting Bishop, but I'm just not into the bleeding anymore. Everything that I have left to do there costs blood, sweat and tears and most of all pain.

So enjoy a couple random photos! I should be training for Joes in a couple weeks, but I can't force myself... check it:

Siemay rockin' down in B-town!



Siemay tribute day.




David O EVO




May may some v8




Siemay crushing Beefcake, V10




Wha, Wha, Whoa...




Back in the day:




Smooth J. Heal well, buddy!




Me on Iron Resolution





If you like this type of random photo media post, let me know in the comments and I can post more of these content poor posts!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Fresh Tips V8

This is another sweet little filler line at the amazing Soda Springs area. along with Soul Glow V10, White Stallion V10, Pre Season V9 & Tears of Tammy Faye Baker V9, Fresh Tips V8 is a must do Tahoe neo-classic.

Here is some video from Jon Thompson, the artist formerly known as "Red."



Jake Novotny climbs in style!

Thanks to Paul Otis for reinvigorating this forgotten area which is filled with new gems!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Kraft Rocks Visit

Well, we went to Red Rocks.

Tired of sharp litttle Bishop crimps, ridiculous crowds and nothing but really hard projects left to do; we passed through B town just long enough to visit with some old friends.

Then, it was off to Red Rocks and sandstone boulders! although we have bouldered there many times before, this trip opened our eyes to some new school gems, and lines to go back for.

Here is our friend, Alex Johnson, on a super classic, huecoey problem called "Bitch Slap 5" V9:



What a fun line! It is about a hundred feet back and directly above Monkey Bars. Classic resistance. HIGHLY RECOMMEND!

We met up with Kenny B. and Mike Doyle along with the Alex's (Johnson and Honnold.). You will not be surprised to learn that crushing ensued. AJ actually did a cool V12 and seemed to be in good form. She and Honnold both did the classic Ethan line "Stand And Deliver" V11 in just a few goes. There were many other proud sends, that we did not witness.

For my part, I repeated a seldom done Moulin dyno called "Taurine" above the Tsunami block at Red Springs. It really fit me and felt about V9, as it is graded, but I did it in a few tries. I did have to Try Hard!

Another highlight of the trip was seeing our old friend from medical school, Ed Kwon. Ed is strong as always despite being in "route shape" and finishing up his fellowship in Trauma Surgery. He was telling us about his cool V12 GSW surgeries where he beat the clock and saved lives and limbs. So cool. Additionally, We got to stay with Leanna, who we know as a climber form Ohio. Her and her husband, Adam, have a real nice spot out in Blue Diamond.

Siemay did some great problems too. Names and grades, unknown, but I can tell that after six months, she has gotten back her strength and is excited to work some tougher lines again.

Zun is Zun. smiley, happy, and now fond of the taste of earthy sandstone!

Vegas is a strange place indeed, but I really like the bouldering, and its a nice break from the Bishop scene that we are so used to.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

The Voodoo Stones: January in Tahoe

Dave Hatchett found an excellent new zone that climbers have mostly overlooked for decades. These blocks, behind Fallen Leaf Lake, have seen some traffic and some of the easier lines and moderates were likely done, but many of the boulders remained undeveloped.

check out some classic FA's we put up on flawless stone:



There were about 3 great sessions out there before the snows finally came. we have a couple mega lines left that will most likely get done next summer or fall depending on when the snow melts.

Even baby Zun made the arduous hike to bask in the warm January Tahoe sun. Great video by John Thompson.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

January 19th Dyno

Well, it's over. The epic season that will go down in the history books. It happens once every 20 years or so I have heard, but this year there was literally NO snow in Tahoe until today.

The last day of the season was a fun jaunt up to the Zephyrs, a vast area given to us by the legendary Jay Sell. Jay keeps contributing to the Tahoe scene and is basically one of the main players who has made Tahoe what it is today. when you see him, thank him!

Anyway, here is a sweet dyno that I put up in the V7-V9 range. Horrible pasty feet and a really cool one-pad hand and a half edge to generate from. TRICKY! I called this one "January 19th" to commemorate the last blustery climbing day in the Tahoe 2012 season.

Check out the problem:



I also added an really cool morpho technical v6 with an amazing start hold that I called "The Entrepeneur."

Additionally, I put up the sit to "Titty grabber" V8. I did not name this problem, but the line is sick and is solid V8 slopey compression. You do have to use a heel-n-toe cam with another boulder that is unavoidable... Despite this fact, and based on movement alone, this climb is three stars! (Well, maybe 2+ for the snobs out there. You know who you are.)

...Near term climbing plans include Joe's, Bishop, Vegas and Doyle.

Won't you join us?

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

The Mountain Beavers

Local Brad Perry just tweaked his ankle at the new climbing gym and had some time on his hands so he put up this awesome edit of the

Check it:

http://vimeo.com/35352687

Included is the 4 star V10 "Integrity" by first ascensionist, Jarrad Wycoff.

The Mtn Beavers are quite secluded and beautiful and home to some really stellar Tahoe stone.

sorry about your ankle, Brad! But it looks like the snow came today anyway. January 19th. I named a new problem after today's date in commemoration! I'll have a video up soon. it's a V7 dyno on the East shore.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Location:Christmas Valley, Tahoe

An amazing season

The Ronin Project. V13? When will it go?


Vaporized V11. amazing new addition! South Bliss


One of the amazing Fallen Leaf Boulders


A Perfect local boulder near Sawmill Pond


John Sitting beneath "Pure Gold" V7 stand, project sit (V10, almost done!)


January 14th and the season is finally almost over. Sadly, there are big storms forecast for next week.

Hopefully, it barely snows and the spring season is Mega. There are so many projects to do, it's kind of ridiculous.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Voodoo Birthday V7

Here is a new 3 star moderate sloper compression line on perfect granite:

First Asent Dave Hatchett & Jimmy Hayden. Sick Bawse!

















Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Location:Tahoe

New 4 star project

Tahoe, January 12th. the best season EVER!




Wow.



V10 sit, V8 stand. HIGHBALL


New lines going up everyday... Two new areas, so much great stone! A little cold sometimes, but look at Jon above in his t shirt. Tahoe in January!

WTF?

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Location:Fallen Leaf Lake

Team Asana in Yosemite

Here is an awesome video from Team Asana. This must be the product testing crew since the pads get some abuse from some tall Yosemite falls!



Big hat tip to Joel Zerr for another fine, palm-sweating good time.

Classic tall and clean, there is no other place like Yosemite.

Climbers are Joel, Kyle, Hannah, and Charles. Sicky!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Freakish Weather

January 1st: no snow in Tahoe. Perfect conditions, t-shirts. Siemay, little Zun and I spent New Years day climbing with good friends at the FREAKS. Here; check it out:



These problems were fun to revisit, and this was Joel, Jon and Zun's first time there. I am sad to report that Zun has made little progress in the way of climbing... Maybe he will have to learn to crawl first after all.

Anyway, after a sick day, and an amazing baller twilight flash of the classic "Yeti" V9 by Mr. Zerr, the crew hit up Kirkwood in for a rustic meal that warmed the soul. There was rib eye, salmon and tortellini along with seared ahi and good stout beer. Laughter and merriment abounded in the establishment.

Hell yeah! This is what life is all about...

Happy new year everyone! Hopefully the snow stays away forever. What a sick sick season.

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

(the sunrise from outside my work yesterday!)

Deja Vu V9

This amazing boulder has been climbed on by all the legendary climbers of the Tahoe region. Visiting climbers and locals alike are psyched on the rock quality and sublime granite movement...

There are now 21 boulder problems on the classic roadside Momma Cat boulder. Can you do them all?



Team Asana Ninja Kyle O'Meara demos... There are several updated lines on the momma cat:

1. Blue Star V7: start as for classic west face v2, work up and left on delicate slab moves, gain small right hand crimp in seam and dyno to top. Fun.

2. Headband V7: same start as last prob, but turn arête to join with finish of Dano's line. Really cool movement getting around the arête!

3. Sour Diesel V6: start as for classic v5 sit on north face (same as in video above) work up and right to join Dano's finish.

4. Deja Vu Half V9: see video above!

5. Deja Vu V10: start on right arête, same as Dano's start, climb up a couple moves, work straight left into Deja Vu Half, same finish.

...Yeah, I know it's a traverse. It's flippin' rad. Shut up and go try it, it's awesome!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Rocklands from LT11

Our friends at Louder Than 11's excellent blog bring you this sick piece of motivation.

Straight Out Of Africa - FEATURE LENGTH from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

I have been to Rocklands twice and have personally done some of these exquisite lines. This place is insane fun. My favorite personal sends were Black Velvet, Gliding and the 5 star Shosholoza, potential contender for the best problem in the world.

My recommendation is to get into amazing shape (best if you can climb v12) and go sample true 4 star climbing at its best.

Wow, my hands are sweating and I can't wait to get back to Mother Africa!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Team Asana in B-town

Truly great editing from Jon Thompson.

Check it out:



Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Avoid The Wart V8

This is a problem Jarrad Wycof and I Put up a little ways back. It's at a sick Jesse Bonin area called the Beavers in south lake. Ultra accessible, this classic little area is a couple minutes from the car down at an obvious pullout/river cross on the left at the end of south upper truckee rd in Myers.

Many classic lines at all grades, and, we discovered, cleaned and did some new problems on a new boulder left untouched by the original development spree.

It's mid December and we are cranking in Tahoe with no snow! Awesome. I hope it never snows, though all my snowboard/ski buddies are all butthurt right about now.

Here's a cute pic of little Zun in his favorite Bruce lee outfit...

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.