Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard.
Noah T. Kaufman, MD
Can You try your hardest without screaming?
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Recently, my brother Jordan and his girlfriend Amanda came to visit us in this little piece of heaven on Earth... Needless to say we golfed and fished just about everyday. The end result was me investing in a fly rod. I had gone really hard at climbing the week before Jordan and Amanda's visit, touring the Mountain hardware team around the Way Lake bouldering area in Mammoth, CA. I split a tip pretty bad almost repeating Wills Young's epic Wavecatcher problem (I have done this climb before.) One of my best friends, Matt, managed to complete the problem; check it out:
Soooo.... A week of fishing and golf were just what the doctor ordered!
The last week, I have been climbing again, trying to shed some fat from the time off and the crazy sushi dinners. I have been to Sugarpine 3 and 5 developing first ascents with the West Shore boyz. Dave Hatchett & Co. are super fun to climb with. Dave is the main developer of Sugarpine, which now has over 150 boulders and 620 boulder problems of every type imaginable. SP1 & 2 are the biggest so far, but it's stacked everywhere. Best area in Tahoe BY FAR...
For the next 2 weeks, we will be living in the Yosemite house behind the medical clinic. Hopefully it's not too hot, but if it is, we'll do classics and climb the Muir tree a bunch. Can't complain about 2 weeks in the valley.
Take care, everyone!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
This is the first ascent of an incredible new line in South Lake Tahoe. "Ground Control" took me 5 days to complete, the crux move alone is about V10 and I think the problem falls in the V10-V12 range (gun-to-head-rating = V11 (until consensus,)) but it is definitely harder for shorter climbers! The first day on it, David O and I sent the stand start with a jump-start for a pretty cool, techy, facey V6 (12d) committing line. The crux move took me several days to send, and skin was an issue as it was warm. The send day was breezey and cool. The problem is in the sun all day, so it should be cold, or before 1pm (shaded till then.) The moves are so cool. First move lurch to the coolest granite sloper than pull-up to a bomber 1/3 pad crimp-match... Then HUGE deadpoint to a precision sloper. Reaaly really neat boulder problem. I found it with Siemay while we were looking for "Space Invaders" wall to sport climb. We got lost and that was a very fortunate thing since this gem was waiting, hidden so close to a classic sport area in South Lake Tahoe.
Ground Control is located near the famous "Space Invaders" route, a total classic 12a sport route and the best I have ever done at that grade. Ground Control is about 500 feet from Space Invaders in the next gully over to the right. (Space Invaders is near Echo View down Sawmill Rd. past the Pie Shop area. There are many other problems and boulders to be explored in this tight gully, some of the rock is exceptional, as with Ground Control, but some is crap. There is a good V7 warm-up on the same boulder that Jesse put up called "Major Tom" (hat tip to Frank Lucido.) Also on this boulder is a rad tall aesthetic V3 highball that I did and called "The Eclipse." There are also several other extremely difficult looking lines to do on this boulder.
On a nearby boulder, Clay and I did a sweet V5 called "Claymation" which is a little sharp but otherwise superb.
Thanks to Metolius for pads and Evolv for shoes!
Special thanks to Siemay for filming and motivating me, Jesse, Joe, Frank, David O and the rest of the Tahoe scene.
Try Hard!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
What a great summer it has been. So much to write about and show in the next couple of weeks!
I just completed one of the best first ascents of my life in Tahoe called "Ground Control" and there will be excellent video coming of this rad and aesthetic hard line. A Tahoe must do, if you can... Jesse B is hard at work on the second ascent, but the problem may be V13 for him. (I thought V10-12 range.) This climb is up near "Space Invaders" 12a Tahoe classic sport route at echo view. The boulder is in the next gully over (to the right of Space Invaders wall.) It is a strong stone's throw and even in altitude. It is absolutely sick. One of the top 5 ascents of my life! There are many other boulders/problems there including a cool but sharp V5 called "Claymation" and a super highball V3 called "The Eclipse." Jesse also put up a nifty V7 warm-up on the Ground Control Boulder. Video coming.
Siemay and I have been doing tons of route climbing and I believe this is the missing link to elevating our bouldering and overall climbing abilities. Routes are fun! Btw, Siemay is clipping bolts and taking falls. This is prouder than the fact that she sent her first 12d this summer in Maple!
Burning Man: Essay and synopsis/review coming. ...Life changing.
I recently made this video for one of my sponsors, Metolius: Check it out. Jesse Bonin also makes a cameo. It is quite a long video; an 8-minute instructional about hangboarding with the Metolius Simulator.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Try Harder is a new film that my company, Try Hard, Ltd. is producing. All proceeds from this film will go to the athletes portrayed in the movie.
Donations and sponsorship are welcome. If you would like to contribute to these under-funded athletes way of life and ability to travel the world and do their thing, please send a check of any value to:
Try Hard, Ltd.
1506 Deseret Dr.
Minden, NV 89423
Please put the contributor's name/nickname to be listed in the film's credits. This is a great way to fund America's Fit Homeless.
This film will be released sometime in 2011.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Wow. Maple Canyon is the BOMB. I love it. We had such a rad 3 week trip!!! Did so many amazing lines, mostly volume in the 5.12 range to get endurance up. The best line by far was "Daddy" at the Cragganmore. This amazing and very long 12d went down 3rd go, but you can really only give it one serious effort a day. On the send, I actually broke the final jug and took a big fall! I was standing up over the final roof, and I was not pumped. The chains were at my face. It was the first unintentional victory whip that I have ever taken! Poor Siemay got yarded to the first bolt! Fun!
Here is a rad 13b that I sent called "Captain Bullet." This climb has been on my to do list since my draws were stolen off of it in 2002. I left Maple Canyon disgusted at that time.
We met up with many friends, old and new. Siemay led many 5.12's clean and took her first real lead falls. I got sick of hearing "I'm not pumped at all!" The Crusher. Jeff Sutton fought valiantly on "Daddy" and is coming back to put it to rest in August. Rich Meredick sent his full rope length tech-nightmare "The Wizard of Ozone" at the Box on lead despite a severe shoulder injury that had him sidelined for months. David Labrosse also crushed, sending all of the hardest routes of his life. His partner in crime, Pierre, got stitched up by me on a picnic table after a bad fall, but continued to climb despite a potential fractured patella! Lastly, Tom Herbert and fam crushed as they always do... Standout sends were from the Herbert children who dispatched their multi-day projects! Little animals!
We had such an amazing time that we are going back for the last week in August before Burning Man.
More photos/stories to come!
Life is amazing!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
David Outcalt has been a great new contributor to the Tahoe Climbing scene. Although there are many contributors to bouldering scene (such as legends Frank Lucido, Jesse Bonin, Jay Sell, Dave & Mike Hatchett and others) David has contributed a lot to the Tahoe scene for having been here for such a short time. Here is a really fun problem he put up on the top of Kingsbury Grade:
FOXY LADY V8
Here are some pics from a new area with many new things to do. David put up a fantastic V6 here called "Dennys" (It's right off the road, but no one ever goes there.) There is a picture also of a sweet line about V10 that I cleaned behind Dennys but I haven't tried it yet. This new area is just pass the Meise Trailhead just past red lake, before Caples on Hwy 88 going west (just over the Donner summit looking grade. Meise Parking Lot. North side of Highway 88, one-quarter mile west of Carson Pass in Alpine County.)Park on the right a tenth of a mile past the meese trailhead as shown. As usual, all our "projects" are open to anyone and we do not keep any secrets as we would not want any kept from us. The following pictures show where to park:
These Last two photos are of a new highball line that I went out and did called "Gideon." I think it is a V8 or thereabouts. This line is visible from the road, as is Dennys. Gideon may be one of the best lines in Tahoe. I originally thought V9, so that is a possibility. There are many other rad problems up the Meise trail that I started cleaning. The rock is very good up there, and the elevation is high so this is a good summer spot.
You really should go do Gideon if you can. the stand start is probably around V5 and is also excellent. The movement on Gideon is powerful and very cool.
There is another V9 out at Caples called "Excalibur" that is also amazing and a contender for one of Tahoe's best lines.
There is also a lot of development happening down Hwy 4 towards Ebbett's Pass. That is where the White Kong is and several other newly developing areas thanks to the hard work of Frank Lucido, David Outcalt and others.
Siemay and I are going to Yosemite for a week, and then back here for a short spell, and then a 3 week trip to Maple Canyon, Utah for some sport climbing. Should be fun!
Meanwhile, Sugarpine is back. The lower areas are ready for climbing now! This will be our focus for July although it will be hot. This is by far the best area in Tahoe.
Tahoe. The Gift continues!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Last Friday to Monday we had a long-planned/awaited trip to the Ruby Mountains near Elko, NV off Hwy I-80. This trip was cut short by rain on Friday, and in my case, a severe bout of food poisoning that left me completely incapacitated despite zofran ODT and percocet for severe body aches. Luckily, the bout passed as quickly as it had come on and it was time to rally. Although we invited the entire Tahoe community (on our local's email list,) only 5 of us made it, and our group of 4 didn't even run into the 5th! The rock was chossy at first, but a little scrubbing and it was good to go. The rock is unusual to say the least. it is a granite, I believe, but has a very high quartz content. The climbing was aesthetic and varied. From techy slabs, to overhangs, to long, rad dynos. Although we did a good amount of bouldering for the 3 days we were there, much time was spent cleaning, and the upper road was blocked by a "once a quarter century avalanche." We may go back in late summer to explore higher altitude areas. The Mountains were jagged and beautiful as you will see in the video. It was a fun little adventure in the Silver State. Now that we are back, Sugarpine is getting ready to go, and Siemay and I will be in Yosemite for a short spell followed by a 3 week trip to Maple Canyon, UT for some sports action. Bamn! Life is a dream!
Take Care, Peoples!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
There is a new area in Tahoe. Surprise, surprise...
The "White Kong" is a gem of a local spot, South of Markleeville on Hwy 4 towards Ebbett's pass. The boulders are 1 mile SW of a stand-alone chimney landmark. They are visible from the road. Here are 2 videos from recent sessions we've been doing out there. The first is "Kingk Kong" V7. This is the prize of the area for sure. It is probably one of the best problems for the grade in the Tahoe region. The moves are consistently difficult and the holds are friendly. The movement is recondite. I spent hours building a rad landing, so it is a very safe highball line as well. The crux is compression on bad holds. Very balancy, but not too powerful. The rock is so sticky, that the line is actually quite difficult to grade. siemay got shut down by a long move and thought it may be height dependent, so the grade is in the V6-V10 range. Here is the First Ascent of "King Kong":
KING KONG V7
The next video is a sweet highball on the same boulder. This tall, proud line was briefly referred to as the "Crsystal Mouth" but the name has changed and is now "Own It" V5. Check it out:
OWN IT V5
Both of these new problems are really cool. Must do's for Tahoe locals climbing in this grade-range.
Siemay did another sweet First Ascent and called it the "Matchstick" V5 due to a really cool feature on the steep climb. I added a very difficult sit start that is rad and is V9 or V10. This problem is just uphill from the first set of boulders on a steep downhill facing bloc. You'll know the line because it is begging to be climbed, it just has that aura about it.
There are many undone projects up the hill. Recently, Ian Cotter-Brown did a nice tall pockety V5 on the Donkey Kong boulder which houses a very cool, sick hard line that I have yet to try. Uphill from there, there is another David Outcalt project that looks really cool as well. So much rock, so little time!
Give a holler if you need beta for anywhere in Tahoe.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Here is another classic from our Joe's Valley trip. This one was a project the last time I went to Joe's, but somebody figured out how to climb it and "Firery Furnace" now joins the ranks as a 'must do' Joe's Valley climb. Please Enjoy.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard.
Noah as usual
We spent part of the time at Joe's with our good friends Thomasina and Cedar Pidgeon. "Thomo" is arguably one of the best female climbers on the planet and she sent a really cool V11 called "Mass Hysteria" (sit to Hooters) while we were there which I captured in HD for "Try Harder." She is a guide at Hueco and spent the season down there crushing many v10-v12s. That's rad. Thomo lives with her daughter, Cedar (3 y/o) in her van, and I must say it is super comfy in there! Cedar is already and adept climber as you will see below. Cedar had many proud FA's in Joe's Valley including some double to triple overhead "highballs." Watch these two crazy Canucks do their thang. Enjoy!
Mommasina: (American Gigolo V7)
Cedarooni: (How Jedis are made with Tim Doyle)
I'm inspired. How about you?
Seek perfection of character, respect others and Try Hard,
I decided to leave cursing in the video because I curse sometimes and that's just the way it is. Don't watch this video if this will offend your sensibilities.
THE BUNNY CRUSHERS - Joe's Valley, Utah
This is an outstanding dyno that took me 3 days to complete. Matt Wilder, Justin Alarcon and I warmed up at UMWA one day and spotted this rad dyno. Justin told us that he had seen a video of Jason Kehl sending the rig, so we decided to give'r a go. It was in the sun the first day and none of us could finish the leap, although those guys were smart and tried for only several goes saving skin for other rad lines!!! ...I got sucked in a little and spent some skin without sending. I love dynos. They boil down to one move, usually a difficult one. Also, I'm tall and I like to jump. On the second day, same story until I broke the starting right hold and made it much worse (it was 3 inches higher and very incut so you could pull in on it.) The edge is now flat and smaller. Matt and Justin also retried it and agreed that the move became more difficult. The starting left hold is weird. Kind of a cool pockety sloping crimp-pinch thing-a-ma-bob. The feet are SHITE, really small and techy. The hold you are going for at the lip is a little slopey with a very precision oriented micro flake in the sloper. If you overshoot or undershoot, it's a really hard stick but hit it just right and you're golden. At the end of the trip, on a cloudy day, I finally sent the post-break FA. This one is a gem of the dyno-world. All the footage here is from the last day of efforts and in perfect conditions, it still took me a good many tries to finally stick the move.
Here are some of the other rad dynos that I have done that I love:
This is a rad V10 called "Porn King" that I did. The camera-work is shaky, but not bad ...for a 3 year old! (Thanks, Cedar!) After the big throw the problem is essentially over... About V3 jugs to a sweet highball finish. A little scary. There is also a sweet line to the right called "ghost King" V11. This boulder is actually pretty stacked. It has a v9, 6, 12, 10, 11. Great rock and super fun movement with good landings. It is located just past the new parking for New Joe's and sits in a rather obvious position down in the gully to the right, a stone's throw from the cars. I tried "Ghost King" a little, but it was pretty hard for me and would require several days of effort. I decided to leave it for when I can come back stronger. Justin Alarcon and Matt Wilder both did this line earlier in the trip with different methods. They both did ghost king as well and thought this one was equally difficult... I guess it just goes to show that we all have different tools and our own ways to get 'er done! I'll stop rambling now. Here's the video, enjoy:
PORN KING V10, Joe's Valley Utah
More to come!
Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.
What can I say. 3 weeks at Joe's is truly a gift. Great friends, great climbing, even crazy ups and downs in the stock market off risky plays.
I will try to non-chronologically sum up the trip over the next few blogs. I have many videos and pics.
I got a lot of great footage for "Try Harder" over this time. It's always nice to film my good buddy Matt Wilder since he can send at will. He and Sandy and I ate like kings and enjoyed Joe's together with Justin Alarcon and Becky the first week. Many many wine was enjoyed'! Week 2 Siemay came and Becky Left. Week 3 Thomo and Cedar showed up, "fresh" from Hueco Tanks (I got some sick footage of Thomo for "Try Harder" and some great shananigans too.) Throw in some wood... Some Justin Wood for good measure and you got yourself a part-A!
Here's a cool send from the trip: This is the project formerly known as "Vegas" on the Chips boulder at New Joes. It was mega fun, like knocking room. I re-ascended it to create a rad new line in the v9-v11 range:
I gotta go to sleep now. I'm working night shifts.
...Oh, BTW, last night was not a busy night at work, so we watched "Knowing" which I really enjoyed. A must-see for Sci-Fi buffs.
Till the next blog,
Seek perfection of character. Respect others and Try Hard.
Siemay sends Fly Boy V6. She also sent "Seven Spanish Angels" V6. Both problems have long dyno moves for their finishing moves. Siemay is quite short at 5'1" and dynoing is not her strength, so these sends were momentous for her.
I felt sick this last week and was unable to regain my highpoint on "Fall Guy" let alone send it! I did manage to do the likely 2nd ascent of "A Grand Day Out" which I felt was about V7. The guidebook has it listed as V10, but for my height, this is not an appropriate grade. Wills is going to go try it and let us know his thoughts!
**CLARIFICATION: I started "Grand Day Out" by stepping onto the boulder from the natural start off the other boulder. When talking about it with Wills, I realized that it is supposed to start 2-3 moves lower, from the start of a v4. I actually went back pulled on to the v4 and broke the starting hold! ...It didn't change much, unless v4 is your limit. now it's a small(er) crimp. The opening moves were cool enough that it made sense to start where Wills describes it in his new guide to Bishop, but it only adds a v3 opening sequence which is more balance than tugging. I think this is a 3 star boulder problem.
UPDATE: Siemay sent "Devoted" V8 and "Fly Boy Sit" V8 this last weekend. CRUSHING! Going to Joe's for 3 weeks...
Noah
Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.
Our weeklong roadtrip was rad. We took the truck camper to a sweet little zone in Southern Cali that is privately owned. It has a reputation for being a fun spot with exceptional rock but a bummer of a situation in that it is privately owned and not open to the public. This is understandable though; if you had your own bomber area, you wouldn't want the worry of liability and trash and abuse. You'd want to enjoy it with your friends, much the way the owners of this great property have. Someday, after all the lines are done and the area is done being developed, the current owners plan on somehow giving the land to climbers everywhere. These are good guys!
Above is a rad 2nd ascent I did of a sweet Chris Sharma squeeze problem. It looks and climbs way better in person, but the video gives you some idea of the climb. I thought V9, maybe harder. Across from this climb is Klem Loskot's "Crowbar" one of the best V12s I have ever seen! 4 stars. The rock is very much like Rocklands in it's texture, but it is granite. It is very featured and textured with ergernomic holds.
The highlights of this trip were Dave Hatchett sending "Redneck Fury" a sick V8 that was a little too hard for me to do in a session. He also almost sent "Under Pressure" a sweet V9 that his brother Mike had put up many years before. This line is amazing 4 stars and TALL!
Siemay also sent many of the classics here. She almost did the FA of a sweet V10 that none of us could touch!
After a way-too-short Rainbow trip, we soujorned to J-Tree. After some classic warm-ups and a fun flash of "High Noon" Highball V5, we made our way to our main focus, Chris Sharma's "Iron Resolution" V12/13. THIS CLIMB IS AMAZING! (and it fit me.) I actually tried really hard and had a couple of goes that felt like they could have been send-goes. Here's a pic of me falling:
I felt strong, but after this lucky non-injury fall (look at my right heel!!!) I decided to rest and try to come back and send the next day. BTW, Big Up to CRAIG GILBERT for an awesome extendo-hand spot on this fall that saved my hide!! Thanks homie!
When we got back to camp, we heard that a storm was moving in, so we rallied with our friends Keita and Kristine and went out on a night hike/bouldering sesh! I did a cool V9 called "Thin Lizzy" 2nd try and it felt like V8 to me, although it also favored a tall bastard... You decide.
Sure enough, the next morning it was pouring... In J-tree?? Yep. It rained all morning and got super windy. Horrible conditions. So, we bailed.
Last leg of our Journey was Bishop again where we hooked up with our close friend Justin Alarcon. Justin was keen on finishing off Matt Wilder's "Haroun and the Sea of Stories" V11. Yeah, he did it first go that day! I had never even done the stand start, a classic in its own right, "The Fall Guy" V9.
Here is a crazy video of me falling after pumping out. At least I have the beta and will finish it off soon!
Anyway, It was a mega-week. Super fun and good training for 3 weeks at Joe's which is right around the corner.
We'll be in Bishop this Weekend from Thursday to Sunday. I may do some ER work down there!
Lastly, a big shout out to my friend Daniel Woods. Daniel is getting married!!!
Hope everyone is healthy and well!
Noah as usual
Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.
Check out this video Walker Emerson posted to Vimeo. Walker is a good friend with a hurt finger who I spent many a laugh with in South Africa and many other climbing spots. Nice one, Walker!
I wanted to be at the last HAF comp at Incline Villiage, Lake Tahoe. Siemay wanted to go to Bishop to do some projects she had and we had 4 days off. ...The choice was obvious.
Siemay sending her first V11 "Beefy Gecko" at the Sads in Bsihop, CA
I sent the "Prozac Dyno" (V9) and Charlie's Rib dyno (V8) and tried Ambrosia (V11) a bunch with my friends Alex Honald and Justin Alarcon.
Justin came as close as one can come to sending "Haroun & The Sea Of Stories" and I worked out the moves on the stand: "The Fall guy." I also worked "Mandala" again.
FALL GUY/HAROUN (V9/11):
I feel a little fat from working too much this winter, or maybe it's just that old familiar weakness. ...Then I look at Siemay crushing and wonder, Woman keeps improving!!! The weather was great down there although it was a little warm.
Anyway, this next week we met up with Dave Hatchett for a private tour of San Diego's Premiere (Private) bouldering paradise: RAINBOW ROCKS.
I shall have a report soon. We will also try to hit Black Mtn. and maybe J-tree to check out Chris's "Iron Resolution" amongst other things.
Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.
Congrats to Siemay Lee!!! She sent "Beefy Gecko" V11 at the Sads down in Bishop this last weekend. That's like 14b/c crux. I will have video of the send up when I get some time. Bishop is lovely this time of year.
Siemay is also mentioned on Wills' awesome Bishop Blog: http://www.bishopbouldering.blogspot.com/