Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard.
Noah T. Kaufman, MD
Can You try your hardest without screaming?
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Bouldering in Joe's by Isaac Caldiero is a sweet new guidebook that has been sorely needed. I just bought this guide and it is excellent. Nice photos, accurate descriptions and ratings, and great beta on "how to get there."
I highly reccommend this guidebook! Hat tip to Isaac; nice job, bub!
Siemay is busy incubating now. She is 6 months! Our baby boy spent this last weekend floating up (literally) many Owen's River Gorge 5.10's and 11's. FIUA's (First in utero ascents!) Siemay is feeling well and is still letting me climb a bunch.
Since returning to Tahoe, I have started lifting weights. Sore elbows from Font encouraged me to join a gym and get other forms of workout until my elbows healed.
The result? I now weigh 192! But, with like 2 hours of cardio a day, it's mostly muscle.
This has actually translated surprisingly well to my climbing. I am much stronger now than I have been for maybe 10 years. With this new strength, I have been putting old projects to rest with good friends.
The Tahoe scene is bumping. North shore possies are going up to Doyle and gettin' shit done, and the snow is melting quickly in Tahoe... Today I hiked through snow in flip-flops to send Jesse Bonin's world class "Future Present." Perfect compression. I did the moves on the low start, "Welcome to the Future," and I will be back to send ASAP. Jesse did like 4 laps on the low start V11 or 12 depending on who you ask. That is sick either way. I love this problem even though nobody can agreen on the grade. The stand start, originally done as a jump start by Jesse was called V11. But now, most people (who are taller than Jesse) start standing without an epic jump and the grade has come down a bit. The sit is hard for all and is agreed to be a 3 star V11 or 12.
Here's a video of ICB doing "Welcome to the future." (Problem is at 3:06 mins.)
Congrats to Joel Zerr who completed the 3rd ascent of "Ground Control!" Joel had a sick flash attempt. This problem took me 5 days in less than ideal conditions and I felt solid V11. However, FA's always feel harder, and although neither Zerr nor Savage downrated this problem, I wonder if it will settle in at V10? Doesn't matter much, I guess. Come try and let me know! It's a sick line anyway. The problem that I do in this video is called "Secret Weapon." Jesse did this one last year and it is mega. A total Tahoe classic. Climbs like Hueco! This line is on the Ronin boulder; home to many sick lines of all grades and one undone super project. "Secret Weapon" and "Double Dragon" were both called V11 by Jesse. DD is a more direct exit to SW, but a more powerful move. SW is pumpy with no move really harder than V8. The first day I got on it, I thought it would go down super quick, however, it is PUMPY with many hard consistent moves. Felt like 13d to me.
Anyhow, if you are passing through, you should do this one too!
Soon, many of our dopest spots will be good to go. I have the go ahead to drive up to some amazing boulders in Tahoe on a road unaccessible until now (I finally have the connections!) We have several new areas in the works for this season, and of course, there is Sugar Pine, the truly best spot that we are all looking forward to another season of FA's! Sugar Pine has over 700 problems now on really nice granite. Logistics are tough though... you need a mtn. bike or 4x4 and a full day. many areas with a serious approach.
GET MOTIVATED! TRY HARD! THIS IS THE YEAR TO CRUSH!!!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
I guess that's the only way to describe the beautiful forest of France. With arguably the finest bouldering in the world--if not by aesthetic, surely by sheer fun factor--Font is a must-climb-at spot for the modern climbing aficionado.
I last visited this enchanted bouldering area 9 years ago with my close friend, Forrest King. We had a blast, but I never returned since there were so many other areas to travel to in the world. Additionally, I remember daily rain and inclement weather stymied our climbing ambitions. Despite the obstacles, I managed to do some amazing climbs back then including the archetypal dyno, "Hale Bopp," and "l'aerodynamie."
This trip was a get-back-in-shape for me trip and a scope-it-out trip pour ma femme. Siemay was 16-18 weeks pregnant during the trip and she managed to climb harder and harder throughout the trip! We were with many good friends from the Bay, spending most our time with Scott, Monica and Justin who lived down the street from us. Our close friend, Rich Meredick stayed with us in our gite (small rental home/apt.) in Larchant, a small town Southwest of the city of Font(ainebleau.)
We also hung/climbed with other (North) Americans during our stay: Randy and Beth, Inger and Nora, Tim Doyle and Matt Lucas... Paul Robinson, Chris Schulte & Jackie Hueftle, Rob Guinn, Justin Wood and Pace, Walker Kearny and Lina and friends... Also we climbed and partied with Ethan Pringle and one of my closest friends, Matt Wilder. Quite a crew of rad people!
And how could I forget our French friends... new and old. David Labrosse joined us in our gite until Siemay left for home, and Miki, Pierre, Ben from Lyon also got psyched to join in the fun!
I also had the opportunity to befriend an amazing family. The two sons, Gregoire and Kevin and their legendary father, Allaine. (I am sure I am butchering the spelling of their names.) The Thibaults are such cool people. Extremely motivated and friendly and crazy and hilarious, with super cute girlfriends to boot! Kevin spots me in the first video above and he climbs a fabulous problem called "irreversible" in the next video. Thanks to Scott Chandler for awesome videos and psyche.
I can honestly say that I had so much fun hanging out and climbing with these two brothers and their father that even when we were rained out, we were all psyched, just being together under a boulder roof in the pouring rain sharing good times. ...Verily, life is about who we meet along the way!
Font is amazing. The weather can suck, and the condoms and feces behind some of the blocs of Bas Cuvier are revolting. The thing is, the climbing is unbelievable. Imagine climbing the most perfect problems with inspiring movement and crazy holds. Climbing the impossible happens frequently. The holds are ergo and comfy, you probably will not bleed in Font (unlike Hueco, Buttermilks, etc.) Also, like Horse Pens, the volume is staggering. ...Over 20,000 problems in the forest currently spread out over 150 different areas! Every style of climbing is represented in a fairly even distribution, but the slopers, ahhh the slopers!!! Potential as well, there will be twice as many problems some day and every year classics are discovered and opened.
Except for a really cool dyno called "Rainbow Rocket" (I said cool dyno, not cool name) I never went back to a problem more than one day, and no, I did not do the 8a dyno...
Some Notable sends/moments:
Rich Meredick - "Duroxamanie"
Matt Wilder - "Megalithe" Flash
Tim Doyle - "Vague Patatras"
Monica Andrada - "La Marie Rose"
Nora - "Le Egoiste"
Justin Alarcon - "Misericorde," "La Mandarin," "Super Prestat"
Scott Chandler - "Irreversible," "Opium," "La Gaulle," "Cent Pof" "Megawatt" "Noir Desire" etc...
Inger - "L'Etrave" Flash
Me - "Instinct"
Siemay - Many hard climbs with Bruce on board!
Randy and Beth - Volume and bunk toe sending! Randy was SUPER close on several 8a-8b sick hard climbs and Beth was still able to destroy despite a foot injury. Proud.
David Labrosse - "Rataplat"
Paul Robinson - everything he touched.
Nalle - see Paul's and "Tigre et Dragon"
Jackie - "Apartenance"
Chris - "Rainbow Rocket" and sick close to the "Big Island" 8c badness
Kevin - "synapse" "Partage" (first go after weighted moves/beta)
Ughhh... So many more
Rockland's aesthetics, but the movement and rock quality, accessibility and fun factor make for the ultimate area.
Did I mention the Bread, the wine, and the daily scrumptious pastries???
Basically, you have to go.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
...I hurt my wrist in Roy this fall (not climbing actually... Spotting!) I have not been climbing so I can heal it for our trip to Font. We will be going to France for a month in Feb/March.
Are you jealous? Why not plan a trip somewhere?
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Ok. Had to go back. We found a huge new zone that will need a bunch of work. Took Brian Arnold, Brian Capps and Jason Kehl again. Did some new stuff. Here are pics and video. Check it.
"Icarus" V7 highball and projects/classics (bits and pieces)
"Paver Tom" V8 at Jumbles
"Carpet Bombers" V10 at the World Wide Wall
here are some photos to further encourage you:
Scarpa Team member Brian Arnold on an amazing project, still undone. Brian was super close. The first move is the crux and then it is about V7 to finish. Maybe a V11.
Brian Capps gets the third ascent of "Carpet Bombers" V10 highball. This is bandering at it's absolute finest. FA Tom Ellis (and John Kuphal)
Brian Capps on the rad dynamic crux move of the sublime "Icarus" V7. What a line.
Capps on the project. We were all shut down, but close. There is an amazing V9 to the right that Tom Ellis put up. Arnold and I tried it in the sun one day and were unable to do it.
Enjoy the season, climbers!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
It is not often that I am amazed by a climbing guidebook. I have long felt that Matt Wilder's Hueco Tanks guide is the best guidebook ever assembled for lovers of our craft. My wife Siemay and i recently traveled to the sandstone boulders around Red Rocks for some friendly bouldering with our long time friends Brian Capps and Christian Tartaglia. On the sojourn, we met and climbed with Pete Lowe, Brandon from LA, Alex Savage, and Tom Moulin. We also had a chance to see and use Tom's new guide to this vast area. I bought a personal copy immediately.
So, It is with great pleasure that I review Southern Nevada Bouldering, a guidebook.
Southern Nevada Bouldering by Tom Moulin is a work of art. This guide, also recently reviewed on Climbing Narc, is everything a guidebook should be. I recommend seeing that review as well, since Brian is an adroit reviewer.
FULL DISCLOSURE: I bought this book and was not asked to review it; I have no incentive for doing so.
Here's a bullet summary of my findings:
Pros:
Amazing color photos, tons of images
Accurate descriptions and photos of boulders with people climbing often for scale
Ample history and narrative
Topographical maps of boulder locations
Bouldering area is spread out, but on par with Joe's for quantity and quality
Extremely well organized
It's right outside Vegas
updated route section online (http://www.snellpress.com/snb/board/)
Numerous projects listed for visiting crushers
Few people at the newer areas
Cons:
$40. - worth every penny though
Heavy, more of a coffee table book - tough to carry to the crag
So beautiful/expensive, you won't want to bring it to the crag! I am already planning to xerox pages before I go out again, or buy 2 copies (if you have money to burn.)
Many of the areas described do not have proper trails and are super dog unfriendly (cholla-mania). The hikes can be long for mega quality problems but low concentration.
Some of the rock is silty and not as grippy as other sandstone Meccas (dirty south, joes.) The rock is oftern similar to Moe's valley in St. George.
It's right outside Vegas
Crowded at the well established areas
All in all, Vegas bouldering areas are amazing with some really standout lines. The guidebook is totally worth the money: go to Vegas bouldering to get a copy. I have already spent hours reading through it, starring at the photos and planning my next outing. Holding this book is holding a piece of art. The amount of time it must have taken to create this is staggering! My hands are sweating just thinking about the problems I left undone.
On my short trip, we never returned to the same boulder twice. I managed to complete a few problems though, the best of which was "Wet Dream" from the obvious stand (I worked out the moves on the V11 sit and need to go back!) I also did "Fountainhead" V9 (I started the stand as high as I could, one move higher than most people start, although the first move was very easy for me) and worked on the sit, and amazing V12 called "Atlas Shrugged" (of course.) I was unable to climb the "Lion Share" an sweet V9, but watched PeteLowe come super close to sending the low start at V12. I tried "Ambacamba" which was a difficult V9 that I could not do, so I did a first ascent just to its right that I called "Bad Cocoa" V8 which shares the same finish. Siemay did the classic "Mr. Moran" V7 in a few goes. Capps basically sent everything. Tartaglia and I went to "Stand and Deliver" V11 which was an epic hike, but so worth it, the problem is 3 stars and dreamy. I did the crux several times, but stopped trying since my elbow began to complain. Too many days on in a row! Christian pulled it out of the bag with a last minute send that was epic.
Alex Savage was also on fire sending most everything he tried in a few goes, making difficult lines look quite easy. Younger, newer model was the joke du jour. Super nice guy with amazing psych and video skillz...
Speaking of videos, here's a tasty video of Ethan Pringle's "Wet Dream," candidate for top 10% of V12s in the world:
Congrats to Joel Zerr on the 2nd ascent of Jesse Bonin's "Secret Weapon" V11. I love this climb, but it got snowed out. I am very close as well. I May shovel it out soon. Joel is also super close to the 2nd ascent of "Alcatraz sit" V12 (FA stand: Kaufman, Sit: Bonin) I will be filming joel on this awesome climb in Carson City, NV for "Try Harder."
Congrats also to Jesse Bonin on his new V11 in Korea! http://www.jessebonin.blogspot.com/ for pics and video... Also, Jesse did an old Kim Lee project at around V10 and called it "Sandpaper Handjob." Great name! Here's a video of some South Korea climbing antics by our very own J. Bonin:
Congrats to Brian Capps on making short work on "Stained Glass" V10 in Bishop. This is one of the best climbs ever. Also, Christian Tartaglia has fallen off the last move of the "Mandala" possibly V13 now after the key right hand credit-card crimp has broken and is worse (could it get worse?)
Economics commentary:
As many of you know, I have an interest in investing/trading the stock market and a basic understanding of what's going on in the world is definitely helpful for the agile trader. Try this on for size:
"Mary is the proprietor of a bar in Dublin . She realizes that virtually all of her customers are unemployed alcoholics and, as such, can no longer afford to patronize her bar. To solve this problem, she comes up with new marketing plan that allows her customers to drink now, but pay later. She keeps track of the drinks consumed on a ledger (thereby granting the customers loans).
Word gets around about Mary’s "drink now, pay later" marketing strategy and, as a result, increasing numbers of customers flood into Mary’s bar. Soon she has the largest sales volume for any bar in Dublin.
By providing her customers' freedom from immediate payment demands, Mary gets no resistance when, at regular intervals, she substantially increases her prices for wine and beer, the most consumed beverages. Consequently, Mary's gross sales volume increases massively. A young and dynamic vice-president at the local bank recognizes that these customer debts constitute valuable future assets and increases Mary's borrowing limit. He sees no reason for any undue concern, since he has the debts of the unemployed alcoholics as collateral.
At the bank's corporate headquarters, expert traders figure a way to make huge commissions, and transform these customer loans into DRINKBONDS, ALCHOBONDS and PUKEBONDS. These securities are then bundled and traded on international security markets. Naive investors don't really understand that the securities being sold to them as AAA secured bonds are really the debts of unemployed alcoholics. Nevertheless, the bond prices continuously climb, and the securities soon become the hottest-selling items for some of the nation's leading brokerage houses.
One day, even though the bond prices are still climbing, a risk manager at the original local bank decides that the time has come to demand payment on the debts incurred by the drinkers at Mary’s bar. He so informs Mary.
Mary then demands payment from her alcoholic patrons, but being unemployed alcoholics they cannot pay back their drinking debts.Since, Mary cannot fulfil her loan obligations she is forced into bankruptcy. The bar closes and the eleven employees lose their jobs.
Overnight, DRINKBONDS, ALCHOBONDS and PUKEBONDS drop in price by 90%. The collapsed bond asset value destroys the banks liquidity and prevents it from issuing new loans, thus freezing credit and economic activity in the community.
The suppliers of Mary’s bar had granted her generous payment extensions and had invested their firms' pension funds in the various BOND securities. They find they are now faced with having to write off her bad debt and with losing over 90% of the presumed value of the bonds. Her wine supplier also claims bankruptcy, closing the doors on a family business that had endured for three generations, her beer supplier is taken over by a competitor, who immediately closes the local plant and lays off 150 workers.
Fortunately though, the bank, the brokerage houses and their respective executives are saved and bailed out by a multi-billion euro no-strings attached cash infusion from their cronies in Government. The funds required for this bailout are obtained by new taxes levied on employed, middle-class, non-drinkers who have never been in Mary’s bar."
Now, do you understand economics in 2010?
In the US, it was our housing market instead of Mary's bar. We lent a lot of money to people who in no way could afford the loans they were getting.
The cool thing is that the astute investor/trader can take advantage of this to exponentiate her capital! Some now famous traders saw this coming and shorted the hell out of the "DRINKBOND" (CDO, etc.) market making a fortune. Sad but true. Common sense is not as prevalent as one might wish, and we all owe big time for the irresponsibility of a few knuckle-heads.
Looking to the future, this type of bubble is bound to be inflated at some point again. Look for it, be ready, and pounce and perhaps you can make a ton of cash (off other's misfortunes and stupidity.)
Thanks to my brother, Asher and his friends for this awesome analogy.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
The last line in the video is not in the guidebook either. it is next to hexentric at cathedral. Charlie told me to go check it out, he thought he had heard it was a V11. This may be true for shorter climbers, but I felt it was V9ish for my body-size. Also of interest is that the "FA" Quasimodo V7 that Scott does in the video apparently had been tried and maybe done several years back! Scott and I re-cleaned this gem but broke a hold or two and found tons of moss... Just goes to show, you never know!
Get psyched!!!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
When I first saw this picture on John Kuphal's excellent blog, Zero-friction I knew I had to see the sandstone around Roy, New Mexico:
John Kuphal on "Carpet Bagger" V10. FA Tom Ellis. five star line. seriously. I did the second ascent of the stand at v9 and will go back soon for the sit! Amazing line at the World Wide Wall.
Here's a video of the best stuff I saw/climbed on:
Roy is not an established, crowded area. It may never be... There is no guidebook, a lot of hiking and adventure, and no real amenities of a close by town. Roy is not Joe's, Hueco or Bishop. In fact, only full-time lifer's and lovers of our craft will appreciate Roy. There is choss and good rock, like anywhere else. This place is good, but no Mecca. There are 4 star lines, occasionally, but Roy is about hanging out and developing a good local area in a pristine and unusual natural setting. Before I get into the trip report and stories/photos/video, let me state the ground rules for Roy and the local ethic:
1. NEVER cross barbwire fences. All areas are accessible by foot although many hikes are extensive. The area around Roy is a mix of public and private land and if you cross a fenced area, you threaten everyone's continued access and your own life. Local landowners can shoot you. Seriously. Furthermore, there is a ranger that has loyalties to the land, the law, and homeowners.
2. All Access rules apply: leave no trace, cut no trails, no chipping. Take photos, leave footprints, etc.
3. Be respectful of others and the environment. Roy is just as much about being "out there" as it is about climbing.
In terms of the rock climbing, Roy is pretty diverse. You will find every type of hold and angle of climbing, from roofs, to bandering, to slabs to everything else. The lines are generally not quite as striking as South Africa, but the rock is generally good and occasionally exceptional bullet hard Dakota Sandstone. If you are a world traveler, you will love Roy. If you mostly make the circuit from Joe's/Bishop/Hueco, you may find that Roy is a waste of your time. There are no truly difficult lines yet. There does seem to be potential for harder lines, but currently grades are up to about V9. There are many sectors to explore, but no guidebook--purposefully. Locals will gladly show newcomers around, but most people begin their adventuring around Mills Canyon Road, North of Roy Proper, and West of Hwy 39 by about 4 miles. Without many trees to obscure boulders, Google Earth is a valuable tool to locate potential areas. Occasionally, these areas yield sub-par rock, but the best areas are super fun for sure. Here are some pics: Click to enlarge.
Noah Kaufman, "Wild Goose Chase" V5 FA
Siemay Lee on a junky V5
Masumi Shibata on "Tear Drops of Cum" V7. Second Ascent
sweet little warm-up zone
features...
texture...
a new boulder we developed with Tom
send! John Kuphal post "Robin" V7
The amazing "Squid Jerky" V7 Tom Ellis sending
Jeff Sutton Trying Hard
This is an actual roof hold in Roy.
Sutton on "McCaw Man" V7
I am an adventurer. period. I love to travel to new areas and see new things. I also love to meet new people. Developing hundreds of boulders in Tahoe, I have learned the ropes of successful area development. Tahoe is a Mecca, and unlike Roy has high quality granite and hard, hard lines. Even so, there is very little traffic in Tahoe since the areas are so spread out through the basin. Traveling to Roy, I knew I would at least have adventure even if I never found the "Mecca."
So, I took 2 weeks and cruised to New Mexico with my wife, Siemay and close friend, Rich. The first week, I had some leads and found the boulders of the wash in Mills Canyon. The best problem here, by far, is John Kuphal's world class "Giant Prostitutes in Space" V8 Highball.
Here is Jason Kehl doing the 2nd ascent (I did the 3rd (first ground up) right after Jason):
This wash and surrounding areas is a decent "local's" area, but except for this problem and a few others, like Jason Kehl's new V10 thug-fest "Nobody" The area is not really worth traveling to. It is like the Eden area at Joe's. Maybe a little bigger, but many small problems that range from sandy to immaculate stone.
"Nobody" V10 FA Jason Kehl
We also found some new climbs and cleaned and did some new classic first ascents at another zone (the Tahoe zone) "Leaping Tarantula" V9 (pic right, Noah Kaufman, FA) and "Wild Goose Chase" V5 (pic left, Rich Meredick) were standouts. During this exploratory first week, I drove many a dirt road and tracked down many a Google Earth lead mostly without finding anything worthy... I really wanted to see the wall from the Zero-friction photo, and I was determined to find it!
I also went to Roy because of the Climbing Magazine web feature: "No, so don't even ask... This crew of New Mexico climbers has the perfect spot, blah blah blah ...bullet stone, perfect access, etc..." I felt teased. I love sandstone. Why dangle a secret in front of my nose? I'm 35 and my strong days are numbered. I love climbing more than anything, and have for 20 years now. I took the bait.
...So, my old friend Jason Kehl, fresh from an epic bouldering trip to the Himalayas decided to join me on my sans beta adventuring of the canyons of Roy. Jason showed up just as Siemay and Rich were leaving. By this point, I had hiked a lot and found some stuff that was... ehhh... okay... Jason and I talked old times and hung out with Chilly in the truck camper. We climbed in the wash and had a fun time, knowing that we were missing out on the best areas these locals were hiding. We did the best (and tallest lines... with Jason there, you know what you're getting into!)
Jason left for Hueco after a few days and my trip was coming to an end. I took a break from the lonely canyons of Roy to visit Rich and go to Enchanted Tower for a day. During this break Rich sent his first 12a and had an epic fall at the chains: half victory whip half complete forearm failure. it was awesome. Anyhow, I got in touch with another old friend, Nick Duttle who gave me some beta and some contact info for the area's main developer: Tom Ellis. Tom is amazing. He called me right back and was psyched. In fact, if you have climbed with me, you know I yell a lot and that I am psyched. Tom is that and more... Unafraid to "monkey-fuck" his friends, Tom is a total lifer and free spirit. Together with a rowdy crew of fellow developers: William Penner, Masumi Shibata, Grady "Sausageman" Ball, et alia I was given a tour of the gems of Roy canyon.
The best lines I did/tried were "Kin no Kanoke" (The Golden Casket) V9, "Carpet Bagger" (stand) v9 sit v10 highball, "Mammajamma" V6 Highball (see video), "Tear Drops of Cum" V7, "Batman" V7 30 foot roof jug-haul...
"TDC" V7 FA Tom Ellis 4 star
"Kin no Kanoke" (The Golden Casket) V9 Grady Ball working the line. FA Masumi Shibata. 4 star
Noah Kaufman, "Squid Jerky" V7 four star. FA John Kuphal
Tom Ellis "Squid Jerky"
Jeff Sutton on "Mammajamma" V6 5 star?
Jeff Sutton working "Batman" V7
Texture
"Ergonomicon" V7 on the Ergernomic boulder. First Asecnt William Penner. 4-star line. Wow.
Jeff Sutton working this classic. Grady and JC cranked out wicked sends during our trip. Sick. Some of the best rock I saw in Roy and one of the coolest lines established so far.
New V9 project. Hard first move to V4. Jeff Sutton works this pretty line.
uhhh... bolted lines appearing on the cliffbands, Massive "BFRB"s below. Some are perfect.
Left: Tom Ellis, project.
These lines are classics. We also tried many projects.
The adventure and camaraderie was the focus it seemed. In a world of haters, where all my youtube videos have negative comments because of all the cheer-leading, it was nice to be hanging out with a bunch of lovers, a bunch of monkey-fucking yellers.
Roy may not be for everyone. The hikes are long with many spiked objects, there is no guidebook, there are a million pieces of rock, the locale is desolate and lonely. There are no restaurants/hotels/shops and the small town of Roy is dying a sad and lonely death.
That being said, and maybe it's because I'm getting older, I'm going back to Roy.
For solid sandstone, good friends, and adventure.
One last time: If you do go to Roy go to Mills Canyon campground, explore and follow these simple guidelines:
1. NEVER cross barbwire fences. All areas are accessible by foot although many hikes are extensive. The area around Roy is a mix of public and private land and if you cross a fenced area, you threaten everyone's continued access and your own life. Local landowners can shoot you. Seriously. Furthermore, there is a ranger that has loyalties to the land, the law, and homeowners.
2. All Access rules apply: leave no trace, cut no trails, no chipping. Take photos, leave footprints, etc.
3. Be respectful of others and the environment. Roy is just as much about being "out there" as it is about climbing.
*To the best of my knowledge, no monkeys were actually fucked or hurt during my trip to Roy.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Congratulations to Alex Savage for the second ascent of "Ground Control." This is perhaps one of the best lines in Tahoe that I found, cleaned and sent earlier this fall. A must do for the advanced climber!
"Secret Weapon" is Mega. This climb is on the newly developed Frank Lucido boulder called the Ronin Boulder. I climbed there for the first time today and it was awesome! Volcanic bouldering at it's finest. I did 2 cool new first ascents: a V7 called "Hidden Dragon" that Jesse quickly repeated, and a super cool steep thuggy 2 move long dynamic climb called "The Last Samurai" that could be V7 as well.
After that, I did all the moves on "Secret Weapon" and did it in two overlapping sections. This climb is really quite fun on great holds. A 3-star line that I can't wait to send!
The Ronin Boulder is right off Hwy 4 in a drainage to the North of the True Value crag (~25 sport routs on andesite.) This crag is on the left 5-10 miles South of Markleeville, CA. You can almost see it from the road, but you'll definitely see the crag.
I also did a rad V9 at the Blitzen boulder the other day. Super cool. Amazing that none of this stuff is in any guidebook. (A bunch of us Tahoe guys are getting together and working on a guide!) Video to come.
Anyway, I'm going to Roy, NM for the next 3 weeks to see what the fuss is about. I will expose this area and have an in-depth report when I reutrn. Stay tuned!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
Yeah, yeah... Yosemite is great, we all know. For the last 3 weeks I had an awesome season warm-up hanging (working) in the Valley, repeating classics and saving lives.
Here is an awesome newish V7 around the corner from The classic Randy Puro problem "Athletes Die Young." Classic Yosemite movement on what appears at first to be a turdy little problem, "Gravitas" is actually a sweet little study of tension and balance.
Here's the vid:
Gravitas
In other news, we had many climbers come stay at the house for the last time. The gig was truly amazing! It was the best job I have ever had, working in Yosemite. I was paid to be a supervisor on a cell phone 24/7 and live in a dope valley pad. I basically went and climbed as much as possible and would answer the phone and give advice usually.
My services were actually occasionally necessary. Most sojourns to the Valley saw at least 1-2 life or death situations that really called for a highly trained emergency physician. This trip I had a little girl tragically hit by rockfall. We intubated her and sent her out to a higher level of care to be treated for her extensive injuries.
She is apparently doing well now!
Cases like these make being an emergency doctor one of the best jobs in the world. Unfortunately, the clinic will be closing in January secondary to fiscal concerns. I am sure the death rate will skyrocket and that a hard lesson will be learned. On-sight physicians in Yosemite are a necessity.
Anyway, the season is getting started, so let's rock it!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Well, Yosemite, as usual, was amazing. It was a litle warm, so we mostly focused on repeating classics, doing First Ascents and hanging out with buddies. As the physician, I cared for many climbers this go around. There were several people hurt by rockfall and we had one terrific save at the clinic!
Here is a short video of Kevin Jorgeson and Scott Chandler sending a Sweet little line that I opened a few years back:
Dream V10
More videos to come! The season is HERE! There are many new things happening on the boulders in Tahoe, and a guidebook is in the works...
Also, I believe I have found the "Secret" Roy, NM bouldering area and am making a recon trip there in November to document my detective work and enjoy some fine NM sandstone... I will take many photos/video to expose this secret Mecca.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Recently, my brother Jordan and his girlfriend Amanda came to visit us in this little piece of heaven on Earth... Needless to say we golfed and fished just about everyday. The end result was me investing in a fly rod. I had gone really hard at climbing the week before Jordan and Amanda's visit, touring the Mountain hardware team around the Way Lake bouldering area in Mammoth, CA. I split a tip pretty bad almost repeating Wills Young's epic Wavecatcher problem (I have done this climb before.) One of my best friends, Matt, managed to complete the problem; check it out:
Soooo.... A week of fishing and golf were just what the doctor ordered!
The last week, I have been climbing again, trying to shed some fat from the time off and the crazy sushi dinners. I have been to Sugarpine 3 and 5 developing first ascents with the West Shore boyz. Dave Hatchett & Co. are super fun to climb with. Dave is the main developer of Sugarpine, which now has over 150 boulders and 620 boulder problems of every type imaginable. SP1 & 2 are the biggest so far, but it's stacked everywhere. Best area in Tahoe BY FAR...
For the next 2 weeks, we will be living in the Yosemite house behind the medical clinic. Hopefully it's not too hot, but if it is, we'll do classics and climb the Muir tree a bunch. Can't complain about 2 weeks in the valley.
Take care, everyone!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
This is the first ascent of an incredible new line in South Lake Tahoe. "Ground Control" took me 5 days to complete, the crux move alone is about V10 and I think the problem falls in the V10-V12 range (gun-to-head-rating = V11 (until consensus,)) but it is definitely harder for shorter climbers! The first day on it, David O and I sent the stand start with a jump-start for a pretty cool, techy, facey V6 (12d) committing line. The crux move took me several days to send, and skin was an issue as it was warm. The send day was breezey and cool. The problem is in the sun all day, so it should be cold, or before 1pm (shaded till then.) The moves are so cool. First move lurch to the coolest granite sloper than pull-up to a bomber 1/3 pad crimp-match... Then HUGE deadpoint to a precision sloper. Reaaly really neat boulder problem. I found it with Siemay while we were looking for "Space Invaders" wall to sport climb. We got lost and that was a very fortunate thing since this gem was waiting, hidden so close to a classic sport area in South Lake Tahoe.
Ground Control is located near the famous "Space Invaders" route, a total classic 12a sport route and the best I have ever done at that grade. Ground Control is about 500 feet from Space Invaders in the next gully over to the right. (Space Invaders is near Echo View down Sawmill Rd. past the Pie Shop area. There are many other problems and boulders to be explored in this tight gully, some of the rock is exceptional, as with Ground Control, but some is crap. There is a good V7 warm-up on the same boulder that Jesse put up called "Major Tom" (hat tip to Frank Lucido.) Also on this boulder is a rad tall aesthetic V3 highball that I did and called "The Eclipse." There are also several other extremely difficult looking lines to do on this boulder.
On a nearby boulder, Clay and I did a sweet V5 called "Claymation" which is a little sharp but otherwise superb.
Thanks to Metolius for pads and Evolv for shoes!
Special thanks to Siemay for filming and motivating me, Jesse, Joe, Frank, David O and the rest of the Tahoe scene.
Try Hard!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
What a great summer it has been. So much to write about and show in the next couple of weeks!
I just completed one of the best first ascents of my life in Tahoe called "Ground Control" and there will be excellent video coming of this rad and aesthetic hard line. A Tahoe must do, if you can... Jesse B is hard at work on the second ascent, but the problem may be V13 for him. (I thought V10-12 range.) This climb is up near "Space Invaders" 12a Tahoe classic sport route at echo view. The boulder is in the next gully over (to the right of Space Invaders wall.) It is a strong stone's throw and even in altitude. It is absolutely sick. One of the top 5 ascents of my life! There are many other boulders/problems there including a cool but sharp V5 called "Claymation" and a super highball V3 called "The Eclipse." Jesse also put up a nifty V7 warm-up on the Ground Control Boulder. Video coming.
Siemay and I have been doing tons of route climbing and I believe this is the missing link to elevating our bouldering and overall climbing abilities. Routes are fun! Btw, Siemay is clipping bolts and taking falls. This is prouder than the fact that she sent her first 12d this summer in Maple!
Burning Man: Essay and synopsis/review coming. ...Life changing.
I recently made this video for one of my sponsors, Metolius: Check it out. Jesse Bonin also makes a cameo. It is quite a long video; an 8-minute instructional about hangboarding with the Metolius Simulator.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Try Harder is a new film that my company, Try Hard, Ltd. is producing. All proceeds from this film will go to the athletes portrayed in the movie.
Donations and sponsorship are welcome. If you would like to contribute to these under-funded athletes way of life and ability to travel the world and do their thing, please send a check of any value to:
Try Hard, Ltd.
1506 Deseret Dr.
Minden, NV 89423
Please put the contributor's name/nickname to be listed in the film's credits. This is a great way to fund America's Fit Homeless.
This film will be released sometime in 2011.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
