Wednesday, November 30, 2011

My best Spotting Send

My best spot ever:



Here's a classic! I've been dredging up some old footage, and this is James Litz climbing Fuc Yo, a sweet V9 at Hounds Ears.

It was wet that day and James fell off the last move, although this was an easy problem for him.

Luckily, I was there to catch him!

I would grade this spot at V9 onsight.

Unfortunately, it broke my nose... But James Lived!

I believe spotting is a skill, just like climbing or falling. Remember to train your spotting! focus on the climbers movement and center body-mass, not there hands, etc.

Try Hard to catch them at their center body-mass or at least take weight off their descent.


...I did send this climb as well and it is amazing!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Monday, November 28, 2011

Vaporized V11


You gotta see this amazing new line:


Vaporized from Joel Zerr on Vimeo.

An amazing new line in Lake Tahoe. Jon Thompson and Dave Ficter found this mega gem the same day they found pure bliss. I later cleaned this line up, and Red (Jon) and I started to work on it in the summer heat. Charlie B even tried a little in summer, and despite being his steeze, the sweltering conditions kept this project in plum-state until early this fall when Joel and Kyle went into attack mode. Sadly, Red had broken his hand, I had torqued my shoulder (or wait no... Maybe this is when Zun was born...), and Charles... Well, Charles went to Utah to climb cracks. So we will all have to go back to do this Tahoe test piece!

Amazing edit by Zerr Productions as usual.

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

The Ronin Project


This is the awesome Ronin power project in South Lake that is likely V13 or more.


The Ronin Project is the sit start moves into a really nice V7 stand problem called the Last Samurai. It is an open project and super cool. Think you can do it?



Here's a little video of the project and another sweet V9 on the same boulder called "Double Dragon."

This boulder is South of Markleeville, CA off Hwy 4, a couple miles past monitor pass take off.  it is on the East side of the Rd. in a drainage just before a bridge and a chossy sport climbing area.  The sport climbs are mostly good and the crag has about 20 routes.  It is called the "True Value" crag.  The
Ronin is about 2 minutes from the car park.  Steep & Fun!  Get some!



Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Holy $#!?, Kyle

Kyle O'Meara is (still) on fire. Lord have mercy, when will it end? See the vid and read the comments.

Midnight Lightning - flash v9
Thriller - flash v10 (holy crap!)
The Force - flash v9
Wall to Wall Carpet - flash v9
No Holds Bard - flash v7
Spanish Fly - flash v8
Moffat Start - flash v9
Don't Make Me kick your ass - flash v9
The Diamond - flash v8
Once Upon a Time - flash v3
Woodyard Arete - flash v6
Bruce Lee v8
Bates' Problem v5
Heart of Darkness v9
Good Vibrations v10
Across the Tracks v10
Cocaine Corner v6
6 Degrees v9
Pride v9
Diesel Power v10


Solo in the Valley from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.


and...


Two days in Yosemite from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.


...This is all over a couple weeks. I have been climbing in the valley for a long time and have never heard of anything like this. I saw Daniel Woods wrestle with Thriller all day in good temps. I am psyched for Kyle, this may indeed only be the beginning!

This is what happens when strength and expert technique come together.

Kyle has also told me he feels the grades are right on with respect to his Tahoe experience.

Incidentally, I spent last weekend with Kyle in Bishop. Besides splitting a tip after almost doing the Mandala second go; with tape, he flashed Fall Guy v9 and did stained glass sit v10 in a couple goes...

Bow down!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Friday, November 18, 2011

Kyle @ Soda Springs

Cool video about a solo mission that Kyle took to Soda Springs. More great Tahoe stone that is so much fun to climb!


Donner Summit Boulders from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.

By the way, it's December and there is no snow in Tahoe! We went bouldering today at a rad new Jay Sell area and it was perfect conditions. I hope it never snows!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Friday, November 11, 2011

Psyched!

Tell me this doesn't make you want to climb in Tahoe...



Hat tip to Red for another fine contribution. Most of the Tahoe crew is elsewhere this week because of snow. A Bunch of us are headed back to Bishop to hit the gold stone and grow the much needed super-leather. More to come.

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Baby Zun & Siemay


From our most recent sojourn to Bishop!



Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Sneak Attack V9


The boyz are at it again!



I've gotta get out there and do this thing! ...Looks so cool.

Sicky edit, Red!

There are now over 1000 problems at Sugar Pine, the guide is 95% done and should be ready for next season. Go buy a mountain bike!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Friday, November 4, 2011

Army of Darkness V9



This is an awesome new problem that Joel Zerr and I put up this summer. It's really amazing and super fun with a spectacular move to a horrible hold. This problem was a new addition at Jesse Bonin's camouflage forest and is on the Bruce Campbell boulder; A mega V5 also showcased in Joel's video. Joel has a real talent for video editing and I can't wait to see what else he "throws together!". ...I highly recommend checking out his other vids.

We are in Bishop for the week with a Frenchy, D.O., Zerr & O'meara the assassin. I am healing a tweaked shoulder but Siemay is back at it. She sent a three-star V7 yesterday at the beavers called "one eyed Willy." I hope to go back and film her on this rad line.

I plan on posting a bunch of smaller posts with media and pics over the meat of the season to keep us PSYCHED!

The weather is good, people are motivated, Zun is growing like a weed and work is on the back burner as the season kicks into high gear!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Welcome To The Future

Well, Red done broke his hand. Mtn bike mishap leaving sugar 3... But, like the trooper he is, he's still rallying with the crew and has turned his focus on filming and editing.

Here's our session on Jesse Bonin's awesome "Welcome to the Future"



A true Tahoe test piece of slopey compression.

Get some!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Sugar season in full swing

From Red:



Curtain call is a new rad V11 jump start that Kyle O'Meara put up at sugar 2. Kyle has really hit his stride! After an impressive 2nd try ascent of The Ashtray V11 and Blast Off V10 and Sneak Attack Low V9 and 3rd go second ascent of Focal Point V10 last weekend, this weekend he did Ground Control V11 in a session, Welcome to the Future V11 in a session, Pure Bliss V9, he flashed Integrity sit V9, flashed Pimp Juice V9 and flashed the technical American Hero V9 in the sun! He also did all the moves to the stand start of the Creekbed proj at South Bliss which he could not quite finish off but felt to be V12. The first move has still not gone, but the whole shebang will likely weigh in at V13. Great climbing Kyle! (try to hear Cartman's voice when reading about Kyle's achievements and you'll be psyched.)

Joel and I made great progress on Welcome to the future, Joel fell off the last move from the start several times and will polish it off soon. we both did the stand (V9 called "The Future Present") and I linked into the stand. I can't wait to do this thing... I can't believe I haven't done this one yet either as it is right there near the road and only 25 mins from the homestead. Great line, Jesse! A Four star climb indeed; one of the best in Tahoe.

Here's an Ian Cotter-Brown vid of Welcome to the Future et Alia:



Just a comment on grades: I'm not sure what consensus is for many of these things... I know on 8a, many climbers take Welcome to the Future as a 12. I think it's 12 in Ian's video, too. If I compare it to a Font climb, or dirty south climb it feels like 8a to me in good conditions. Like the Egg in Squamish, but not as hard as Dominator or other 12s I've worked on/done. Who knows? Also, it's in the range of +\- 1 grade, so who cares... Just hope not to offend anyone who took 12 on this rig, maybe it is! Doesn't really matter though since it's a 4 star classic. I think that should be the main emphasis anyhow. I'd love to hear thoughts on this in the comment section if you care to opine. I also thought Focal Point was a 9 banger since I FA'd the thing in the sun. Who knows. With Yosemite so close, where grades are generally stout, many a Bay area strongman has felt some Tahoe grades to be soft, although I think they are on par with most other areas in the world, actually.

Anyhow, The Season is in full swing. Apparently, Jesse sent his V11/12 project up at the Triads (upper Mtn beavers) and there is a whole lot of new rock being developed way up there! ...The hike is over an hour though, so motivation is a must.

Personally, I did some cool 10's at rock creek: Osama eliminate and the campground arête. I have been doing cool FA's at Sugarpine with Hatchett and crew including "The Anniversary" V9 dyno, "Deadbeat Dad" V8, "Shaft Adapter" V8 (flash), and the super mega "such great heights" V8 (flash.) I am super close on Welcome to the future and really want to go check out the Ashtray, Blast Off, Curtain Call, Sneak Attack Low and the Hercules proj. If I get around to it. This week we are headed down to check out Hartley near Mammoth. Siemay is getting back in shape and moving well on the rock for someone who recently gave birth to a little ninja.

speaking of which, Zun is 9 weeks old and working on grip strength. He is smiling and crying, shitting and sleeping and has already made it out to 5 different climbing spots including a couple with long approaches.

Get psyched, get out there and CRANK!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

The Ashtray

This amazing line is classic. Chris Sharma opened this line many years ago in the Josh Lowell movie "Rampage." Here Kyle O'Meara sends it second try! I spoke with Chris about this line at a recent trade show. He had fond memories of it and asked me if it had seen repeats and how hard it was felt to be. Somehow, I have not done this line yet. After seeing this video, it is back at the top of my list. Film and edit by Joel Zerr who has also done the line several times.

The Ashtray



In other sad news, Steve Jobs has finally lost his life to pancreatic cancer. This amazing human being gave us wonderful gifts, and he changed the world in profound ways. The irony is not lost on me as I write this post from my iPad. Something tells me Steve would have appreciated Kyle's mellifluous movement on this gymnastic Sharma Tahoe classic.


Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Monday, October 3, 2011

Sugarpine Goodness

From Red:




Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Evolv Shoes: Why I use them exclusively



Evolv shoes are the best shoes on the market. This is an opinion. I have been climbing for 20 years now and used just about every kind of shoes along the way.  From beginner to expert, Evolv provides the best climbing shoe experience period.

 FULL DISCLOSURE: I get free Evolv gear/shoes. However, as a physician, the cost of these items is insignificant and I would only climb in/use the best gear possible. I have been a Pontas man for several years now; they are the only shoes I would wear. Now however, there are several other options that I employ in my climbing that I shall review in detail. I am very loyal to my sponsors, but I actually had to switch to Evolv from MadRock since I felt I could not ethically endorse MadRock's products since they did not work well for me and my climbing style.

Here are some of the amazing, amazing shoes that Evolv offers:









From left to right these are: 1. "Ollie" flip-flop 2. Shaman 3. Bandit SC 4. Pontas. Here is another view:














What makes Evolv shoes the best on the market?

 1. Wearability. These shoes perform right out of the box and only get better. They exhibit the shortest break-in period of any shoe I have ever worn. They fit like a glove and are by far the best balance between sensitivity and strength of any shoe I have ever tried.

2. Durability. These shoes last. Unlike 5.10's (Which I also love) which break down easily and last a month or less, Evolv products last until the rubber is climbed off, and then through the re-sole, too. Because of their lifespan, the cost of the shoe represents a better value in a money to longevity perspective. These shoes also smell less than other shoes I have used, for what it's worth.

 3. Comfort. This seems to be a foot shape issue and therefore a personal attribute, however, I have noted that people don't take their Evolvs off at the crag. This can actually reduce the life of the shoe, but it is great for the gym and is evidence of the glove-like feel of Evolv shoes.

 4. Customer Service. Have you tried to talk to some shoe companies about returns, sizing, advice, etc? I have heard overwhelmingly that Evolv rocks in this dept. and can attest to it from personal experience. I switched shoe sponsors several years ago partially for this reason, and partially because Madrock climbs horribly on granite.

 5. Philosophy. Evolv is not about climbing hard and being the best. Sure they have Chris and other bad-ass role-models on the team, but Evolv is about fun and adventure and fulfilment in the climbing lifestyle. This philosophy makes them focus on quality above anything else. Like Apple's iPad, iPhone, etc. Evolv has made products that have brand appeal.

Specifics of the Evolv shoes I wear:

 The new Shaman is Sick, as is the Bandit SC. These shoes solve the sole (no pun intended) problem that I used to have as a Pontas guy: The heelhooking was lackluster. Now, with the Shaman's I feel like I finally have THE PERFECT SHOE. No real gimmicks, just the most solid shoe I have ever worn. I use Shaman's for steep and hard projects/routes, Bandits for techy and thin with heeling, Pontas for all around/warm-up/climbing up to V8, flops for easy approach/post-approach/easy warm-up between burn lounging.

The Ollie flop is great, I will admit that through the years, I have always loved the La Sportiva flop. In fact, I still think it is a better flop than Evolv's, however, I believe it has been discontinued. The Evolv flops are a little too soft for performance, although I have still done up to v6 in them comfortably. I also am a size 14, so I wear the 13's and this could contribute to my thoughts. The Ollie is growing on me.

 Here is a video of Evolv shoes doing what they do best on Tahoe's epic 4 star "Ground Control" V11:

 

BOTTOM LINE: Evolvs are the best shoes in the world for rock climbing. They excel on granite, the rubber is the best by far: hard enough to grab a penny-edge jib, supple enough to push into a techy smedge or sandstone smear. If you are trying to improve at rockclimbing, even as a beginner, Evolv shoes will take your climbing to the next level.

 Peruse products and order here. Tell them Noah sent you!

 Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Focal Point V10

Here's a new video from Red detailing a sick day of slaughter at sugar 1. This symphony of sending was performed by transplant and local by proxy, Kyle O'Meara. Boom.




Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Location:Sugga

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Meyers Climbing Festival

Should be fun!




















Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Friday, September 9, 2011

Tahoe Photos



Brian Arnold on Global Warming, V9 @ Eratica




















Jesse Bonin on the FA of Milk Money, V12 @ Crater Lake, Tahoe










Crater lake boulder...

























Brian Arnold on Smooth Boy Slim, V9 @ Burnside























Me on Sisyphus, V8 @ Sugarpine




















Siemay Lee on Skull Fucker, V9 @ Sugarpine




















David Outcalt on Alcatraz, V10 @ Prison Hill






















All or Nothing, V10 (tentative) @ The Mountain Beavers. photo Brad Perry



















Welcome to The Future, V11 (photos Doug Ayers)
























Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.



Thursday, September 8, 2011

Getting Psyched

Well, the season is just around the corner. My little man, Zun is growing and crying and keeping us up at nights, but that hasn't stopped the climbing from happening. Siemay has even gotten out for a session! So much has gone down, so many new things. Joel Zerr and I went to May Lake in Tuolumne and did some amazing high alpine climbing on quartzite. We also visited the Camouflage Forest and added one of Tahoe's best new V9's: Army of Darkness. Joel is putting together a sick video and I will post it here soon. Yesterday we hit Sugarpine 2 and did some FA's and repeated some amazing new classics: Here's the FA by Kyle O'meara and some other classics with Red and Jimmy Haden: also, here is a sick new one move power problem that I did called the Anniversary, probably a 9 or a 10... we'll need some repeats to tell for sure:
There are new amazing lines going up everywhere. Also, I just heard from Jesse Bonin that he is working on a 55 ft. V12 roof in Tuolumne!!! Life is good, go out and get some! Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Mountain Beavers Video

From Red:



For a change of scenery, I went back to the Mtn. Beavers with Joel and Red to do some new stuff. Joel repeated the sit to Jarrad's amazing "Integrity" problem and Red did the stand. I mostly spectated and toured all morning as baby duty has me fairly sleep-deprived and ragged. I did "sack up" for the first descent of a sick highball proud widow-maker (see video.) Clay and Laura showed up for a minute and did some moderate lines. Clay also tried and looked great on Integrity. Joel also hiked and found a futuristic squeeze line that needs cleaning.

By afternoon, however, it was a different story for me; psych was high and I was ready to do some new things.

The first new line I did I named "varigation" after the multi-colored, spotted wall that it's on just to the left of Integrity. It's a fun v5 move to a cool top-out. It's hard for V5, but it can't be harder, can it?! None of us flashed it, and Red didn't even do it. Anyway, You tell me.

The second new line I did was super rad. "Cat Reflexic" V7. This line opens with double left hand campusing out an overhang buldge with a bad right crimp and a huge left jug. There are no feet. The landing is not good and might necessitate ninja-ing the landing... You have to land like a cat. That being said, I did not feel the actual climbing was that hard, maybe hard V7. It would be good to get consensus on both these lines, as usual.

Both these new lines are in Red's video above. I tried to imagine the grades as they would feel in good conditions, though they both felt 2 grades harder in 80 degree weather on slopers.

I look forward to Jarrad, Jesse and David O returning from their May Lake trip for a report and to open some new lines at this stellar new area.

BTW, here is some beta on the Future Boulder (near the saddle) from our close friends at BETABASE.

Zun is doing well adjusting to home-life, he is nursing well and he actually let us sleep for 4 hours straight this morning!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Friday, August 5, 2011

Pool Service V5 & a new South shore zone...

Here's a sweet new Jesse Bonin video detailing some spring/summer fun on classic Tahoe moderates:

Tahoe Moderates from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.


The first problem showcased is a sweet line I put up a couple seasons ago at Eratica. Called "Pool Service" in honor of Big Dave Nunley, God Dammit. dave found it and got me psyched on it. I called it V5, but it may be harder actually. It's all about sloper control, and it's a great line, indeed.

The other problems are also sweet and should be done if you are here for a while or are looking for sweet lines in the more moderate range.

In other news, there is a sick new area in south lake that Jarrad Wycoff discovered. He and Jesse have been picking plums and doing trail work while I've been up doing new stuff on the North Shore. It's hot everywhere and the skeeters are horrible this year. that being said, everyone is PSYCHED and the crew is in the best summer-shape ever. Fall should be epic. special mention about Jarrad Wycoff: Jarrad done got STRONG! He also just put up a 5 star line at his new area, the Moutain Beavers. This new line, called "Integrity" V7 stand, 9 sit, is the best compression line I have seen since Pine Box, V11 in Yosemite. Great job, Jarrad! ...Animal.

This new area reminds me of Sugarpine area 1. supposedly there are 4 areas though, and I've only seen one. I'll try to get some pics and video ASAP. Jesse, David O, Jarrad and others are going down to Yosemite to May Lake to check out some Matt Arnold goodness this weekend. Jesse and D.O. are gearing up for an extended 10 month road trip, and they are super stoked.

Zun is home now and has much to learn. His ninja training has begun though!

Get out there and destroy!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual