Winter Doldrums

Well, it seems like it happens every year about this time... I get into a rut. I climb on plastic once a week and am generally less motivated. Of course I want to road trip and see new things, but Tahoe is mostly socked in and with Siemay working and little Zun around the options are just not amazing.

I could be hitting Bishop, but I'm just not into the bleeding anymore. Everything that I have left to do there costs blood, sweat and tears and most of all pain.

So enjoy a couple random photos! I should be training for Joes in a couple weeks, but I can't force myself... check it:

Siemay rockin' down in B-town!



Siemay tribute day.




David O EVO




May may some v8




Siemay crushing Beefcake, V10




Wha, Wha, Whoa...




Back in the day:




Smooth J. Heal well, buddy!




Me on Iron Resolution





If you like this type of random photo media post, let me know in the comments and I can post more of these content poor posts!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Fresh Tips V8

This is another sweet little filler line at the amazing Soda Springs area. along with Soul Glow V10, White Stallion V10, Pre Season V9 & Tears of Tammy Faye Baker V9, Fresh Tips V8 is a must do Tahoe neo-classic.

Here is some video from Jon Thompson, the artist formerly known as "Red."



Jake Novotny climbs in style!

Thanks to Paul Otis for reinvigorating this forgotten area which is filled with new gems!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Kraft Rocks Visit

Well, we went to Red Rocks.

Tired of sharp litttle Bishop crimps, ridiculous crowds and nothing but really hard projects left to do; we passed through B town just long enough to visit with some old friends.

Then, it was off to Red Rocks and sandstone boulders! although we have bouldered there many times before, this trip opened our eyes to some new school gems, and lines to go back for.

Here is our friend, Alex Johnson, on a super classic, huecoey problem called "Bitch Slap 5" V9:



What a fun line! It is about a hundred feet back and directly above Monkey Bars. Classic resistance. HIGHLY RECOMMEND!

We met up with Kenny B. and Mike Doyle along with the Alex's (Johnson and Honnold.). You will not be surprised to learn that crushing ensued. AJ actually did a cool V12 and seemed to be in good form. She and Honnold both did the classic Ethan line "Stand And Deliver" V11 in just a few goes. There were many other proud sends, that we did not witness.

For my part, I repeated a seldom done Moulin dyno called "Taurine" above the Tsunami block at Red Springs. It really fit me and felt about V9, as it is graded, but I did it in a few tries. I did have to Try Hard!

Another highlight of the trip was seeing our old friend from medical school, Ed Kwon. Ed is strong as always despite being in "route shape" and finishing up his fellowship in Trauma Surgery. He was telling us about his cool V12 GSW surgeries where he beat the clock and saved lives and limbs. So cool. Additionally, We got to stay with Leanna, who we know as a climber form Ohio. Her and her husband, Adam, have a real nice spot out in Blue Diamond.

Siemay did some great problems too. Names and grades, unknown, but I can tell that after six months, she has gotten back her strength and is excited to work some tougher lines again.

Zun is Zun. smiley, happy, and now fond of the taste of earthy sandstone!

Vegas is a strange place indeed, but I really like the bouldering, and its a nice break from the Bishop scene that we are so used to.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

The Voodoo Stones: January in Tahoe

Dave Hatchett found an excellent new zone that climbers have mostly overlooked for decades. These blocks, behind Fallen Leaf Lake, have seen some traffic and some of the easier lines and moderates were likely done, but many of the boulders remained undeveloped.

check out some classic FA's we put up on flawless stone:



There were about 3 great sessions out there before the snows finally came. we have a couple mega lines left that will most likely get done next summer or fall depending on when the snow melts.

Even baby Zun made the arduous hike to bask in the warm January Tahoe sun. Great video by John Thompson.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

January 19th Dyno

Well, it's over. The epic season that will go down in the history books. It happens once every 20 years or so I have heard, but this year there was literally NO snow in Tahoe until today.

The last day of the season was a fun jaunt up to the Zephyrs, a vast area given to us by the legendary Jay Sell. Jay keeps contributing to the Tahoe scene and is basically one of the main players who has made Tahoe what it is today. when you see him, thank him!

Anyway, here is a sweet dyno that I put up in the V7-V9 range. Horrible pasty feet and a really cool one-pad hand and a half edge to generate from. TRICKY! I called this one "January 19th" to commemorate the last blustery climbing day in the Tahoe 2012 season.

Check out the problem:



I also added an really cool morpho technical v6 with an amazing start hold that I called "The Entrepeneur."

Additionally, I put up the sit to "Titty grabber" V8. I did not name this problem, but the line is sick and is solid V8 slopey compression. You do have to use a heel-n-toe cam with another boulder that is unavoidable... Despite this fact, and based on movement alone, this climb is three stars! (Well, maybe 2+ for the snobs out there. You know who you are.)

...Near term climbing plans include Joe's, Bishop, Vegas and Doyle.

Won't you join us?

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

The Mountain Beavers

Local Brad Perry just tweaked his ankle at the new climbing gym and had some time on his hands so he put up this awesome edit of the

Check it:

http://vimeo.com/35352687

Included is the 4 star V10 "Integrity" by first ascensionist, Jarrad Wycoff.

The Mtn Beavers are quite secluded and beautiful and home to some really stellar Tahoe stone.

sorry about your ankle, Brad! But it looks like the snow came today anyway. January 19th. I named a new problem after today's date in commemoration! I'll have a video up soon. it's a V7 dyno on the East shore.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Location:Christmas Valley, Tahoe

An amazing season

The Ronin Project. V13? When will it go?


Vaporized V11. amazing new addition! South Bliss


One of the amazing Fallen Leaf Boulders


A Perfect local boulder near Sawmill Pond


John Sitting beneath "Pure Gold" V7 stand, project sit (V10, almost done!)


January 14th and the season is finally almost over. Sadly, there are big storms forecast for next week.

Hopefully, it barely snows and the spring season is Mega. There are so many projects to do, it's kind of ridiculous.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Voodoo Birthday V7

Here is a new 3 star moderate sloper compression line on perfect granite:

First Asent Dave Hatchett & Jimmy Hayden. Sick Bawse!

















Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Location:Tahoe

New 4 star project

Tahoe, January 12th. the best season EVER!




Wow.



V10 sit, V8 stand. HIGHBALL


New lines going up everyday... Two new areas, so much great stone! A little cold sometimes, but look at Jon above in his t shirt. Tahoe in January!

WTF?

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Location:Fallen Leaf Lake

Team Asana in Yosemite

Here is an awesome video from Team Asana. This must be the product testing crew since the pads get some abuse from some tall Yosemite falls!



Big hat tip to Joel Zerr for another fine, palm-sweating good time.

Classic tall and clean, there is no other place like Yosemite.

Climbers are Joel, Kyle, Hannah, and Charles. Sicky!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Freakish Weather

January 1st: no snow in Tahoe. Perfect conditions, t-shirts. Siemay, little Zun and I spent New Years day climbing with good friends at the FREAKS. Here; check it out:



These problems were fun to revisit, and this was Joel, Jon and Zun's first time there. I am sad to report that Zun has made little progress in the way of climbing... Maybe he will have to learn to crawl first after all.

Anyway, after a sick day, and an amazing baller twilight flash of the classic "Yeti" V9 by Mr. Zerr, the crew hit up Kirkwood in for a rustic meal that warmed the soul. There was rib eye, salmon and tortellini along with seared ahi and good stout beer. Laughter and merriment abounded in the establishment.

Hell yeah! This is what life is all about...

Happy new year everyone! Hopefully the snow stays away forever. What a sick sick season.

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

(the sunrise from outside my work yesterday!)

Deja Vu V9

This amazing boulder has been climbed on by all the legendary climbers of the Tahoe region. Visiting climbers and locals alike are psyched on the rock quality and sublime granite movement...

There are now 21 boulder problems on the classic roadside Momma Cat boulder. Can you do them all?



Team Asana Ninja Kyle O'Meara demos... There are several updated lines on the momma cat:

1. Blue Star V7: start as for classic west face v2, work up and left on delicate slab moves, gain small right hand crimp in seam and dyno to top. Fun.

2. Headband V7: same start as last prob, but turn arête to join with finish of Dano's line. Really cool movement getting around the arête!

3. Sour Diesel V6: start as for classic v5 sit on north face (same as in video above) work up and right to join Dano's finish.

4. Deja Vu Half V9: see video above!

5. Deja Vu V10: start on right arête, same as Dano's start, climb up a couple moves, work straight left into Deja Vu Half, same finish.

...Yeah, I know it's a traverse. It's flippin' rad. Shut up and go try it, it's awesome!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Rocklands from LT11

Our friends at Louder Than 11's excellent blog bring you this sick piece of motivation.

Straight Out Of Africa - FEATURE LENGTH from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

I have been to Rocklands twice and have personally done some of these exquisite lines. This place is insane fun. My favorite personal sends were Black Velvet, Gliding and the 5 star Shosholoza, potential contender for the best problem in the world.

My recommendation is to get into amazing shape (best if you can climb v12) and go sample true 4 star climbing at its best.

Wow, my hands are sweating and I can't wait to get back to Mother Africa!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Team Asana in B-town

Truly great editing from Jon Thompson.

Check it out:



Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Avoid The Wart V8

This is a problem Jarrad Wycof and I Put up a little ways back. It's at a sick Jesse Bonin area called the Beavers in south lake. Ultra accessible, this classic little area is a couple minutes from the car down at an obvious pullout/river cross on the left at the end of south upper truckee rd in Myers.

Many classic lines at all grades, and, we discovered, cleaned and did some new problems on a new boulder left untouched by the original development spree.

It's mid December and we are cranking in Tahoe with no snow! Awesome. I hope it never snows, though all my snowboard/ski buddies are all butthurt right about now.

Here's a cute pic of little Zun in his favorite Bruce lee outfit...

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

My best Spotting Send

My best spot ever:



Here's a classic! I've been dredging up some old footage, and this is James Litz climbing Fuc Yo, a sweet V9 at Hounds Ears.

It was wet that day and James fell off the last move, although this was an easy problem for him.

Luckily, I was there to catch him!

I would grade this spot at V9 onsight.

Unfortunately, it broke my nose... But James Lived!

I believe spotting is a skill, just like climbing or falling. Remember to train your spotting! focus on the climbers movement and center body-mass, not there hands, etc.

Try Hard to catch them at their center body-mass or at least take weight off their descent.


...I did send this climb as well and it is amazing!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Vaporized V11

You gotta see this amazing new line:


Vaporized from Joel Zerr on Vimeo.

An amazing new line in Lake Tahoe. Jon Thompson and Dave Ficter found this mega gem the same day they found pure bliss. I later cleaned this line up, and Red (Jon) and I started to work on it in the summer heat. Charlie B even tried a little in summer, and despite being his steeze, the sweltering conditions kept this project in plum-state until early this fall when Joel and Kyle went into attack mode. Sadly, Red had broken his hand, I had torqued my shoulder (or wait no... Maybe this is when Zun was born...), and Charles... Well, Charles went to Utah to climb cracks. So we will all have to go back to do this Tahoe test piece!

Amazing edit by Zerr Productions as usual.

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

The Ronin Project

This is the awesome Ronin power project in South Lake that is likely V13 or more.


The Ronin Project is the sit start moves into a really nice V7 stand problem called the Last Samurai. It is an open project and super cool. Think you can do it?



Here's a little video of the project and another sweet V9 on the same boulder called "Double Dragon."

This boulder is South of Markleeville, CA off Hwy 4, a couple miles past monitor pass take off.  it is on the East side of the Rd. in a drainage just before a bridge and a chossy sport climbing area.  The sport climbs are mostly good and the crag has about 20 routes.  It is called the "True Value" crag.  The
Ronin is about 2 minutes from the car park.  Steep & Fun!  Get some!



Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Holy $#!?, Kyle

Kyle O'Meara is (still) on fire. Lord have mercy, when will it end? See the vid and read the comments.

Midnight Lightning - flash v9
Thriller - flash v10 (holy crap!)
The Force - flash v9
Wall to Wall Carpet - flash v9
No Holds Bard - flash v7
Spanish Fly - flash v8
Moffat Start - flash v9
Don't Make Me kick your ass - flash v9
The Diamond - flash v8
Once Upon a Time - flash v3
Woodyard Arete - flash v6
Bruce Lee v8
Bates' Problem v5
Heart of Darkness v9
Good Vibrations v10
Across the Tracks v10
Cocaine Corner v6
6 Degrees v9
Pride v9
Diesel Power v10


Solo in the Valley from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.


and...


Two days in Yosemite from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.


...This is all over a couple weeks. I have been climbing in the valley for a long time and have never heard of anything like this. I saw Daniel Woods wrestle with Thriller all day in good temps. I am psyched for Kyle, this may indeed only be the beginning!

This is what happens when strength and expert technique come together.

Kyle has also told me he feels the grades are right on with respect to his Tahoe experience.

Incidentally, I spent last weekend with Kyle in Bishop. Besides splitting a tip after almost doing the Mandala second go; with tape, he flashed Fall Guy v9 and did stained glass sit v10 in a couple goes...

Bow down!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Kyle @ Soda Springs

Cool video about a solo mission that Kyle took to Soda Springs. More great Tahoe stone that is so much fun to climb!


Donner Summit Boulders from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.

By the way, it's December and there is no snow in Tahoe! We went bouldering today at a rad new Jay Sell area and it was perfect conditions. I hope it never snows!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.