Sunday, May 23, 2010

The White Kong

There is a new area in Tahoe.  Surprise, surprise...
The "White Kong" is a gem of a local spot, South of Markleeville on Hwy 4 towards Ebbett's pass.  The boulders are 1 mile SW of a stand-alone chimney landmark.  They are visible from the road.  Here are 2 videos from recent sessions we've been doing out there.  The first is "Kingk Kong" V7.  This is the prize of the area for sure.  It is probably one of the best problems for the grade in the Tahoe region.  The moves are consistently difficult and the holds are friendly.  The movement is recondite.  I spent hours building a rad landing, so it is a very safe highball line as well.  The crux is compression on bad holds.  Very balancy, but not too powerful.  The rock is so sticky, that the line is actually quite difficult to grade.  siemay got shut down by a long move and thought it may be height dependent, so the grade is in the V6-V10 range.  Here is the First Ascent of "King Kong":


The next video is a sweet highball on the same boulder.  This tall, proud line was briefly referred to as the "Crsystal Mouth" but the name has changed and is now "Own It" V5.  Check it out:


Both of these new problems are really cool.  Must do's for Tahoe locals climbing in this grade-range.

Siemay did another sweet First Ascent and called it the "Matchstick" V5 due to a really cool feature on the steep climb.  I added a very difficult sit start that is rad and is V9 or V10.  This problem is just uphill from the first set of boulders on a steep downhill facing bloc.  You'll know the line because it is begging to be climbed, it just has that aura about it.

There are many undone projects up the hill.  Recently, Ian Cotter-Brown did a nice tall pockety V5 on the Donkey Kong boulder which houses a very cool, sick hard line that I have yet to try.  Uphill from there, there is another David Outcalt project that looks really cool as well.  So much rock, so little time!

Give a holler if you need beta for anywhere in Tahoe.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual