Monday, April 26, 2010


Here is another classic from our Joe's Valley trip.  This one was a project the last time I went to Joe's, but somebody figured out how to climb it and "Firery Furnace" now joins the ranks as a 'must do' Joe's Valley climb.  Please Enjoy.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard.
Noah as usual

Monday, April 19, 2010

Joe's #4 - AMERICAN GIGOLO (and Cedar)

We spent part of the time at Joe's with our good friends Thomasina and Cedar Pidgeon.  "Thomo" is arguably one of the best female climbers on the planet and she sent a really cool V11 called "Mass Hysteria" (sit to Hooters) while we were there which I captured in HD for "Try Harder."  She is a guide at Hueco and spent the season down there crushing many v10-v12s.  That's rad.  Thomo lives with her daughter, Cedar (3 y/o) in her van, and I must say it is super comfy in there!  Cedar is already and adept climber as you will see below.  Cedar had many proud FA's in Joe's Valley including some double to triple overhead "highballs."  Watch these two crazy Canucks do their thang.  Enjoy!

Mommasina: (American Gigolo V7)

Cedarooni: (How Jedis are made with Tim Doyle)

I'm inspired.  How about you?

Seek perfection of character, respect others and Try Hard,


Thursday, April 15, 2010



I decided to leave cursing in the video because I curse sometimes and that's just the way it is.  Don't watch this video if this will offend your sensibilities.

THE BUNNY CRUSHERS - Joe's Valley, Utah

This is an outstanding dyno that took me 3 days to complete.  Matt Wilder, Justin Alarcon and I warmed up at UMWA one day and spotted this rad dyno.  Justin told us that he had seen a video of Jason Kehl sending the rig, so we decided to give'r a go.  It was in the sun the first day and none of us could finish the leap, although those guys were smart and tried for only several goes saving skin for other rad lines!!!  ...I got sucked in a little and spent some skin without sending.  I love dynos.  They boil down to one move, usually a difficult one.  Also, I'm tall and I like to jump.  On the second day, same story until I broke the starting right hold and made it much worse (it was 3 inches higher and very incut so you could pull in on it.)  The edge is now flat and smaller.  Matt and Justin also retried it and agreed that the move became more difficult.  The starting left hold is weird.  Kind of a cool pockety sloping crimp-pinch thing-a-ma-bob.  The feet are SHITE, really small and techy.  The hold you are going for at the lip is a little slopey with a very precision oriented micro flake in the sloper.  If you overshoot or undershoot, it's a really hard stick but hit it just right and you're golden.  At the end of the trip, on a cloudy day, I finally sent the post-break FA.  This one is a gem of the dyno-world.  All the footage here is from the last day of efforts and in perfect conditions, it still took me a good many tries to finally stick the move.

Here are some of the other rad dynos that I have done that I love:

"Prozac Nation" V9 -
"Zen Flute" V10 -
"What's Left of Les" V4ish -
"The Wonderhole Dyno" V10 -
"I believe I can Fly" V10 -
"Hale Bopp" V11 -
"Black Velvet" V11 -

Seek perfection of character. Respect others and please, Try Hard!

Noah as usual

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Joe's #2 - PORN KING

This is a rad V10 called "Porn King" that I did.  The camera-work is shaky, but not bad ...for a 3 year old!  (Thanks, Cedar!)  After the big throw the problem is essentially over...  About V3 jugs to a sweet highball finish.  A little scary.  There is also a sweet line to the right called "ghost King" V11.  This boulder is actually pretty stacked.  It has a v9, 6, 12, 10, 11.  Great rock and super fun movement with good landings.  It is located just past the new parking for New Joe's and sits in a rather obvious position down in the gully to the right, a stone's throw from the cars.  I tried "Ghost King" a little, but it was pretty hard for me and would require several days of effort.  I decided to leave it for when I can come back stronger.  Justin Alarcon and Matt Wilder both did this line earlier in the trip with different methods.  They both did ghost king as well and thought this one was equally difficult...  I guess it just goes to show that we all have different tools and our own ways to get 'er done!  I'll stop rambling now.  Here's the video, enjoy:

PORN KING V10, Joe's Valley Utah

More to come!

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

Monday, April 12, 2010

Joe's #1 - VEGAS


What can I say.  3 weeks at Joe's is truly a gift.  Great friends, great climbing, even crazy ups and downs in the stock market off risky plays.

I will try to non-chronologically sum up the trip over the next few blogs.  I have many videos and pics.

I got a lot of great footage for "Try Harder" over this time.  It's always nice to film my good buddy Matt Wilder since he can send at will.  He and Sandy and I ate like kings and enjoyed Joe's together with Justin Alarcon and Becky the first week.  Many many wine was enjoyed'!  Week 2 Siemay came and Becky Left.  Week 3 Thomo and Cedar showed up, "fresh" from Hueco Tanks (I got some sick footage of Thomo for "Try Harder" and some great shananigans too.)  Throw in some wood...  Some Justin Wood for good measure and you got yourself a part-A!

Here's a cool send from the trip:  This is the project formerly known as "Vegas" on the Chips boulder at New Joes.  It was mega fun, like knocking room.  I re-ascended it to create a rad new line in the v9-v11 range:

I gotta go to sleep now.  I'm working night shifts.

...Oh, BTW, last night was not a busy night at work, so we watched "Knowing" which I really enjoyed.  A must-see for Sci-Fi buffs.

Till the next blog,

Seek perfection of character. Respect others and Try Hard.