Wednesday, November 30, 2011

My best Spotting Send

My best spot ever:



Here's a classic! I've been dredging up some old footage, and this is James Litz climbing Fuc Yo, a sweet V9 at Hounds Ears.

It was wet that day and James fell off the last move, although this was an easy problem for him.

Luckily, I was there to catch him!

I would grade this spot at V9 onsight.

Unfortunately, it broke my nose... But James Lived!

I believe spotting is a skill, just like climbing or falling. Remember to train your spotting! focus on the climbers movement and center body-mass, not there hands, etc.

Try Hard to catch them at their center body-mass or at least take weight off their descent.


...I did send this climb as well and it is amazing!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Monday, November 28, 2011

Vaporized V11


You gotta see this amazing new line:


Vaporized from Joel Zerr on Vimeo.

An amazing new line in Lake Tahoe. Jon Thompson and Dave Ficter found this mega gem the same day they found pure bliss. I later cleaned this line up, and Red (Jon) and I started to work on it in the summer heat. Charlie B even tried a little in summer, and despite being his steeze, the sweltering conditions kept this project in plum-state until early this fall when Joel and Kyle went into attack mode. Sadly, Red had broken his hand, I had torqued my shoulder (or wait no... Maybe this is when Zun was born...), and Charles... Well, Charles went to Utah to climb cracks. So we will all have to go back to do this Tahoe test piece!

Amazing edit by Zerr Productions as usual.

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

The Ronin Project


This is the awesome Ronin power project in South Lake that is likely V13 or more.


The Ronin Project is the sit start moves into a really nice V7 stand problem called the Last Samurai. It is an open project and super cool. Think you can do it?



Here's a little video of the project and another sweet V9 on the same boulder called "Double Dragon."

This boulder is South of Markleeville, CA off Hwy 4, a couple miles past monitor pass take off.  it is on the East side of the Rd. in a drainage just before a bridge and a chossy sport climbing area.  The sport climbs are mostly good and the crag has about 20 routes.  It is called the "True Value" crag.  The
Ronin is about 2 minutes from the car park.  Steep & Fun!  Get some!



Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Holy $#!?, Kyle

Kyle O'Meara is (still) on fire. Lord have mercy, when will it end? See the vid and read the comments.

Midnight Lightning - flash v9
Thriller - flash v10 (holy crap!)
The Force - flash v9
Wall to Wall Carpet - flash v9
No Holds Bard - flash v7
Spanish Fly - flash v8
Moffat Start - flash v9
Don't Make Me kick your ass - flash v9
The Diamond - flash v8
Once Upon a Time - flash v3
Woodyard Arete - flash v6
Bruce Lee v8
Bates' Problem v5
Heart of Darkness v9
Good Vibrations v10
Across the Tracks v10
Cocaine Corner v6
6 Degrees v9
Pride v9
Diesel Power v10


Solo in the Valley from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.


and...


Two days in Yosemite from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.


...This is all over a couple weeks. I have been climbing in the valley for a long time and have never heard of anything like this. I saw Daniel Woods wrestle with Thriller all day in good temps. I am psyched for Kyle, this may indeed only be the beginning!

This is what happens when strength and expert technique come together.

Kyle has also told me he feels the grades are right on with respect to his Tahoe experience.

Incidentally, I spent last weekend with Kyle in Bishop. Besides splitting a tip after almost doing the Mandala second go; with tape, he flashed Fall Guy v9 and did stained glass sit v10 in a couple goes...

Bow down!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Friday, November 18, 2011

Kyle @ Soda Springs

Cool video about a solo mission that Kyle took to Soda Springs. More great Tahoe stone that is so much fun to climb!


Donner Summit Boulders from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.

By the way, it's December and there is no snow in Tahoe! We went bouldering today at a rad new Jay Sell area and it was perfect conditions. I hope it never snows!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Friday, November 11, 2011

Psyched!

Tell me this doesn't make you want to climb in Tahoe...



Hat tip to Red for another fine contribution. Most of the Tahoe crew is elsewhere this week because of snow. A Bunch of us are headed back to Bishop to hit the gold stone and grow the much needed super-leather. More to come.

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Baby Zun & Siemay


From our most recent sojourn to Bishop!



Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Sneak Attack V9


The boyz are at it again!



I've gotta get out there and do this thing! ...Looks so cool.

Sicky edit, Red!

There are now over 1000 problems at Sugar Pine, the guide is 95% done and should be ready for next season. Go buy a mountain bike!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Friday, November 4, 2011

Army of Darkness V9



This is an awesome new problem that Joel Zerr and I put up this summer. It's really amazing and super fun with a spectacular move to a horrible hold. This problem was a new addition at Jesse Bonin's camouflage forest and is on the Bruce Campbell boulder; A mega V5 also showcased in Joel's video. Joel has a real talent for video editing and I can't wait to see what else he "throws together!". ...I highly recommend checking out his other vids.

We are in Bishop for the week with a Frenchy, D.O., Zerr & O'meara the assassin. I am healing a tweaked shoulder but Siemay is back at it. She sent a three-star V7 yesterday at the beavers called "one eyed Willy." I hope to go back and film her on this rad line.

I plan on posting a bunch of smaller posts with media and pics over the meat of the season to keep us PSYCHED!

The weather is good, people are motivated, Zun is growing like a weed and work is on the back burner as the season kicks into high gear!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.