Tuesday, June 8, 2010

First Ascent Madness

David Outcalt has been a great new contributor to the Tahoe Climbing scene.  Although there are many contributors to bouldering scene (such as legends Frank Lucido, Jesse Bonin, Jay Sell, Dave & Mike Hatchett and others) David has contributed a lot to the Tahoe scene for having been here for such a short time.  Here is a really fun problem he put up on the top of Kingsbury Grade:


Here are some pics from a new area with many new things to do.  David put up a fantastic V6 here called "Dennys" (It's right off the road, but no one ever goes there.)  There is a picture also of a sweet line about V10 that I cleaned behind Dennys but I haven't tried it yet.  This new area is just pass the Meise Trailhead just past red lake, before Caples on Hwy 88 going west (just over the Donner summit looking grade. Meise Parking Lot. North side of Highway 88, one-quarter mile west of Carson Pass in Alpine County.)  Park on the right a tenth of a mile past the meese trailhead as shown.  As usual, all our "projects" are open to anyone and we do not keep any secrets as we would not want any kept from us.  The following pictures show where to park:

 Cool project behind Dennys V10? PERFECT ROCK.

More angles on Dennys below:
Dennys V6 (above)


These Last two photos are of a new highball line that I went out and did called "Gideon."  I think it is a V8 or thereabouts.  This line is visible from the road, as is Dennys.  Gideon may be one of the best lines in Tahoe.  I originally thought V9, so that is a possibility.  There are many other rad problems up the Meise trail that I started cleaning.  The rock is very good up there, and the elevation is high so this is a good summer spot.

You really should go do Gideon if you can.  the stand start is probably around V5 and is also excellent.  The movement on Gideon is powerful and very cool.

There is another V9 out at Caples called "Excalibur" that is also amazing and a contender for one of Tahoe's best lines.

There is also a lot of development happening down Hwy 4 towards Ebbett's Pass.  That is where the White Kong is and several other newly developing areas thanks to the hard work of Frank Lucido, David Outcalt and others.

Siemay and I are going to Yosemite for a week, and then back here for a short spell, and then a 3 week trip to Maple Canyon, Utah for some sport climbing.  Should be fun!

Meanwhile, Sugarpine is back.  The lower areas are ready for climbing now!  This will be our focus for July although it will be hot.  This is by far the best area in Tahoe.

Tahoe.  The Gift continues!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Friday, June 4, 2010

Bouldering in the Ruby Mountains

Let's start with the video, of course:


Here's the Lowdown of our weekend:

Last Friday to Monday we had a long-planned/awaited trip to the Ruby Mountains near Elko, NV off Hwy I-80.  This trip was cut short by rain on Friday, and in my case, a severe bout of food poisoning that left me completely incapacitated despite zofran ODT and percocet for severe body aches.  Luckily, the bout passed as quickly as it had come on and it was time to rally.  Although we invited the entire Tahoe community (on our local's email list,) only 5 of us made it, and our group of 4 didn't even run into the 5th!  The rock was chossy at first, but a little scrubbing and it was good to go.  The rock is unusual to say the least.  it is a granite, I believe, but has a very high quartz content.  The climbing was aesthetic and varied.  From techy slabs, to overhangs, to long, rad dynos.  Although we did a good amount of bouldering for the 3 days we were there, much time was spent cleaning, and the upper road was blocked by a "once a quarter century avalanche."  We may go back in late summer to explore higher altitude areas.  The Mountains were jagged and beautiful as you will see in the video.  It was a fun little adventure in the Silver State.  Now that we are back, Sugarpine is getting ready to go, and Siemay and I will be in Yosemite for a short spell followed by a 3 week trip to Maple Canyon, UT for some sports action.  Bamn!  Life is a dream!

Take Care, Peoples!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual