Thursday, November 29, 2012

Isaac and Laura's Tahoe Video

Hats off to Isaac & Laura! Their Tahoe/Sierra's climbing vid is one of the best trip vids I've ever seen.

Watch Isaac crush, me do some FA's around Tahoe, and Siemay and Laura represent as well. There's also some minor surgery...

Great vid. Check it out:

Northern Sierra Mtns. Bouldering from Shibidaang on Vimeo.

Let them know what you think in the comments!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Sunday, November 25, 2012

Gotta Start Somewhere...

Yeah, I rule.

Discovered this classic 1990 video during Thanksgiving family video review.


Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Thursday, November 15, 2012

Deadbeat Dads V9

Well, Joel flashed it with better beta! I repeated it, and it is now V9 although more consensus is warranted! Instead of the huge throw like I did, Joel grabbed the left hand crimp and went again. I repeated fairly easily and crossed off the crimp... still a mega line!

(Handlebar Mitch under DBDs. The problem starts down and left on the underclings...)

The sesh today started at Welcome to the future:

(Jon Thompson crushed this thing, but had a dab on a spotter and manned up and jumped down to keep it pure.)

Everyone pretty much did the stand (classic V9) and Joel and I did the sit (V11.). It was a good sesh and everyone made a lot of progress. I enjoyed the climb so much that I ran a lap on it, doing it twice from the sit!

(Mitch on the slopey intro moves to this Tahoe Mega line. Hat tip to Jesse Bonin for the vision on this one. The landing is perfect now, so get out there!)

Mitch Underhill crushed the V9 stand and is looking strong on the sit. It's good to get one of our hard route climbing brethren out here on the boulders for some pebble wrastling.

Snow's a coming, so the whole crew is Bishop bound this weekend for more project work. ...Local Jake Novotny is close on The Swarm, V14 and Joel is almost done with The Buttermilker, V13 and looking strong on The Specter, V13. I also want to finish the Buttermilker which has always looked so hard to me. I'm psyched to have the beta now and put in some effort down south since the Tahoe season was meh...

Lastly, a fond farewell to our close friends Isaac and Laura from Utah. Isaac Caldiero is an old friend and it was great having him out. He flashed many a hard V10 and 11 while here and polished off some harder lines as well. He briefly worked on the V13 or 14 proj at the Ronin, and came up with sick beta that us locals may be able to use to work the line into submission this winter.

We will be traveling to St. George this winter to hook up with these crazy cats and I will share the amazing Tahoe video edit that Isaac and Laura are working on when it is done. I only wish they could have had slightly better weather! Either way, they loved Tahoe and canceled the rest of their road trip to stay here longer. Isaac had an amazing end of trip send of Luminance, V10 Flash (ground up.) It is hard to realize how proud this is unless you climb V10 and go look at how balsy this climb is. Sick job, bub!

These are the days to enjoy, my friends!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Deadbeat Dads V10

Today I had a caught a sesh with my good friend, Mitch Underhill. We started at Mamma Cat and I showed him some of the sweet new lines on that block. He had a quick send of Dano's Arête V8 and then some good attempts on Deja Vu V9 (which was in the sun and a little warm.)

After warming up, we cruised up to the Local's Area; the big split boulder off the North side of the road in Hope Valley, west of the Mama Cat on Hwy 88.

Since we were feeling strong and since the temps were so nice in the shade, we decided to attempt an old project to the left of the big arête. This amazing line cleaned up well, despite the initially grainy rock. I have been trying this thing off and on for years, but it finally went down today. Mitch was very close as well, and I'm sure he will finish this climb soon!

I felt the grade was probably V10, but it could be easier or harder, we will need some consensus, so go do it and let me know!

Here is a photo sequence of Mitch on the route:

start on rad under clings with jibby feet.

Cool lock move to small pinch

Bamn! Left to another sweet undercling crimper.

Throw a massive move to a big rounded jug, or make a hard move to a good crimp (pictured.)


BIG move. Radical.

Then a nice V3 to the top with cool holds & nice height. (This was the established line on the bloc.)

A legit new addition to the hard circuit! Deadbeat Dads!

Get some! Let us know in the comments what you think of this cool new line

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.