Sunday, October 31, 2010

New Tahoe Bouldering

Here is a new video from my friend Jesse Bonin detailing some of the notable recent ascents in Tahoe and some good oldies as well.

Tahoe Activity from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.

The 2 V11s in this video are excellent climbs!

"Secret Weapon" is Mega. This climb is on the newly developed Frank Lucido boulder called the Ronin Boulder. I climbed there for the first time today and it was awesome! Volcanic bouldering at it's finest. I did 2 cool new first ascents: a V7 called "Hidden Dragon" that Jesse quickly repeated, and a super cool steep thuggy 2 move long dynamic climb called "The Last Samurai" that could be V7 as well.

After that, I did all the moves on "Secret Weapon" and did it in two overlapping sections. This climb is really quite fun on great holds. A 3-star line that I can't wait to send!

The Ronin Boulder is right off Hwy 4 in a drainage to the North of the True Value crag (~25 sport routs on andesite.) This crag is on the left 5-10 miles South of Markleeville, CA. You can almost see it from the road, but you'll definitely see the crag.

I also did a rad V9 at the Blitzen boulder the other day. Super cool. Amazing that none of this stuff is in any guidebook. (A bunch of us Tahoe guys are getting together and working on a guide!) Video to come.

Anyway, I'm going to Roy, NM for the next 3 weeks to see what the fuss is about. I will expose this area and have an in-depth report when I reutrn. Stay tuned!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Friday, October 29, 2010

Ballers in Wolvie-Land Movie

This video speaks for itself. New development from the modern masters in Colorado:

ENTER THE WOLVO from chad greedy on Vimeo.

...Go get some!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Gravitas V7

Yeah, yeah... Yosemite is great, we all know. For the last 3 weeks I had an awesome season warm-up hanging (working) in the Valley, repeating classics and saving lives.

Here is an awesome newish V7 around the corner from The classic Randy Puro problem "Athletes Die Young." Classic Yosemite movement on what appears at first to be a turdy little problem, "Gravitas" is actually a sweet little study of tension and balance.

Here's the vid:


In other news, we had many climbers come stay at the house for the last time. The gig was truly amazing! It was the best job I have ever had, working in Yosemite. I was paid to be a supervisor on a cell phone 24/7 and live in a dope valley pad. I basically went and climbed as much as possible and would answer the phone and give advice usually.

My services were actually occasionally necessary. Most sojourns to the Valley saw at least 1-2 life or death situations that really called for a highly trained emergency physician. This trip I had a little girl tragically hit by rockfall. We intubated her and sent her out to a higher level of care to be treated for her extensive injuries.

She is apparently doing well now!

Cases like these make being an emergency doctor one of the best jobs in the world. Unfortunately, the clinic will be closing in January secondary to fiscal concerns. I am sure the death rate will skyrocket and that a hard lesson will be learned. On-sight physicians in Yosemite are a necessity.

Anyway, the season is getting started, so let's rock it!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Sunday, October 17, 2010

Dream V10

Well, Yosemite, as usual, was amazing. It was a litle warm, so we mostly focused on repeating classics, doing First Ascents and hanging out with buddies. As the physician, I cared for many climbers this go around. There were several people hurt by rockfall and we had one terrific save at the clinic!

Here is a short video of Kevin Jorgeson and Scott Chandler sending a Sweet little line that I opened a few years back:

Dream V10

More videos to come! The season is HERE! There are many new things happening on the boulders in Tahoe, and a guidebook is in the works...

Also, I believe I have found the "Secret" Roy, NM bouldering area and am making a recon trip there in November to document my detective work and enjoy some fine NM sandstone... I will take many photos/video to expose this secret Mecca.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual