Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Joel Zerr crushes the Tsunami Wall & Bangs out a sick new FA!

Congratulations once again to local hardman, Joel Zerr, for getting it done on the Tsunami Wall and elsewhere. Check out this great Thompson vid which captures the FA of a new V12 that Joel added to this intense wall and aptly named "Point Break:"

These lines are epic! Cool holds and a really nice peaceful setting. The line to the right of Point Break is still a project and perhaps the hardest big line on the wall. This is the third and highest tier of the popular but relatively unknown Castle Peaks/Boreal bouldering area (See Dave Hatchett's guide when it comes out.)

Congrats to Joel for also repeating a North Shore Charlie Barrett V12 called "Boyz in the Hood." Joel crushed this line and a nice V10 to the right of it called "Humble Mumble." "Boyz in the Hood" used to be known as the "Woodpecker project" before Charlie took her down in the mid 2000's.

Joel's other four star V11 FA called "Progressive Disillusionment" is just below the Tsunami a little ways. Nice work, Joel!

In other news, my old friend Isaac Caldiero and I went to Jesse Bonin's Tahoe Testpiece "Welcome to The Future," V11 today... It was restored! Someone, ostensibly the perpetrator of the excavating crimes, has filled the gaping excavation mess below the problem with dirt and sticks. The landing is perfect once again, if not as aesthetically pleasing given the dearth of tall green grass that once was...

...I fell off the V4 move going to the lip after sticking the crux move to the pocket from the low start. Heartbreaking. It felt pretty easy today actually, and although I have done the original stand many times (V9), I am psyched to add the legit start to this Bonin Masterpiece. Isaac had a great flash attempt but was thwarted by somewhat manky conditions, little light and not enough rest! I think this thing will go down first try for both of us next sesh.

Lastly, a big shout out to Ian Cotter-Brown for the third ascent of Kyle O's wonderful Sugarpine sloper problem "Polar Opposites" V11. The grade on this one is in flux since the problem is so slopey and weather dependent. (In fact, many grades from hard ascents from this summer are in question since the climbs have been flashed, repeated and sussed!)

Take all grades with a big grain of sand. They are merely suggestions!

So much more to come.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Tick Marks

From my friend Matt. A friendly reminder about the dangers of the rookie stripe.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Friday, October 12, 2012

Amazing new lines

Here is a great new video from Jon depicting many of the new lines that went up this summer around Tahoe in the V7-9 range. If these lines inspire you, buy Hatchett's guidebook when it comes out since all these problems and areas will be included.

Check it:

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Burning Man 2012

*WARNING*. Non-climbing post to follow.

This pretty much sums it up. Incredible burn this year, can't wait for the next!

Burning Man 2012 - Aerial from Heliprod on Vimeo.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Monday, October 1, 2012


Welcome to the disaster.

This is Jesse Bonin's Tahoe masterpiece "Welcome to The Future" V11. Unbelievable. This is a highly sought after area testpiece for many visiting climbers. The slopey granite feature is reminiscent of Font and the rock is perfect. This climb was number 25 on the DPM top 100 problems in the US (for what it's worth.)

The offender, who has since been arrested and fined $20,000, would not listen to climbers after we confronted him peacefully several times and told him this was illegal and just disrespectful to the land. Apparently he found buckets worth of Native American pottery artifacts.

We finally involved John Q. Law and the community came together and dealt with this douchebag legally and without violence. Apparently, he faces stiff fines up to $20,000 and jail time.

Hat tip to Brad Perry for really getting things done! Give him a handshake when you run into him at the Push wall and thank him for a job well done.

I can't wait until the grass grows back and this boulder is as beautiful as it once was. Such a line!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.