Monday, January 25, 2010

Moe's Valley, an analysis.

Siemay and I just had an awesome week out in St. George.  Despite inclement weather, we were able to climb 3 days and mountain bike 1 day.  Day 1 was by far the best day.  Moe's is a smallish area with some excellent rock and chossy in places.  There are true standout lines that make it a very special place, totally worth visiting, like Moab's Big Bend area.  Although the rock is soft and prone to breakage, the holds are often perfect, as if sculpted for human hands.

"Gription" V9 must do.

Long move.

Techy Heel Hook with crunchy bicycle (key beta for me!)
Match ham-hock for a second to stabilize., go for the open hand finger bucket!  v3 topout for desert.

I sent "Gription" V9 in about an hour after warming up.  This line is beautiful and as a hard moderate is a true gem of the area.  I worked on this with Anthony from Sonora, CA.  He and his wife, Jessica, joined us for several sessions.  Anthony topped out "Gription" in the rain the next day!

Next, I went down and did "Bazooka Tooth" V10.  I had really wanted to try this problem after seeing video of it.  I did it 2nd try and for my body (6'2", full meat) it felt like a V8.  I did have a nano-dab "brush-by" on the pad, but did not know it (Anthony and Siemay called me out!)  I decided not to repeat the line as it had tweaked my back slightly.  It also wasn't a limit problem, so I felt okay violating my usually unwavering pure ethic about dabs.  Plus, here's the final jug we're talking about (see left.) The problem starts low on a right undercling, left gaston.  Bigger people can stem out right and milk their size.  It felt like V4 to a commiting upside-down  drive-by dyno.  Rad.

We finished off Day 1 by sending "Spectro" V7.  This line looks exactly like a mini "spectre" a classic, Buttermilk testpiece.  It was harder for me than Gription or Bazooka Tooth.

Day 2 I tried "Show of Hands" V11 and made good progress, but was unnmotivated working on it all alone. and stopped trying it after about 20 minutes.  The rest of day 2 and 3 were doing tons of easy to hard classics , so much fun movement.  We didn't climb much after this since we heard that a friend had broken a hold secondary to the rain.

Our New roadtrip home.  The Truck Camper!

So, we went mountain biking!  This was a real eye-opener.  As much fun as surfing, climbing and snowboarding.

Siemay was in "do classics" mode and many of the hardest lines did not fit her 5'1" stature well.

Another highlight was the amazing BBQ place we found.  UNREAL!  Troy's BBQ, if you're venturing to/through St. George, is AMAZING! Take Bluff exit off I-15, go 3ish blocks, rith on 700 S. it's on your right.  DO NOT MISS THIS BBQ.  I have had BBQ all over the country: Miami, Chicago, TX (all over), NM, AZ, etc.etc.  THIS IS THE BEST!  (And you can sign the wall.  FUN!)  All in all, a great trip despite the weather.

During rainy days, we played "Settlers of Catan" with old firends from St. George (Isaac, Lauren, Jorge, Seth) before they went up to the trade show.  They are developing some incredible new areas down in and around St. George.  Thanks for the hospitality, guys!!!  Here is Seth's website about St. George climbing (with rad pics/video.)

Also, Jesse Bonin has some new vid of super local Carson crag: Prison Hill:

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Tahoe News & Plans...


Congrats to Chris Schulte for sending Jesse Bonin's Tahoe V12 "Welcome to the Future." Joel Zerr also is super close and has fallen at the last move. This is a Tahoe Must-do for solid 5.14 crux climbing.

Congrats also to David Outcalt for repeating "Alcatraz" V10 at Prison Hill, David said he put 15 days of work into Alcatraz for the 5th ascent. This climb has bouted some strong climbers with the exception of Joel Zerr who did it in 4-5 goes! Apparently David and Jesse just put up some rad new lines on the boulder behind Alcatraz. (David, can you send us that rad photo to get people psyched?)
No one, to my knowledge, has tried Jesse's "V11" sit-start to Alcatraz, but that is a prize for sure. I think it's more like V13... but maybe V11 if your very short and superhuman strong.

A few of us went out and cleaned a sick new line that Joel found in Woodfords and sent a bunch of moderates in the snow. Notably, a 4-star line I found that Jesse did got it's 2nd-4th ascent, at V7 "Amazing Grace" is one of Tahoe's best for the grade. Joel and Tory from Reno also did "stone Mason" V7 and "Timmy" V7. (two of these problems are across the road from the store just below Sorensen's, "Timmy" is uphill from the biggest gold boulder in Woodfords. This huge boulder is home to the Tahoe MEGA line, tall and hard and undone.)

JAN. 16-26th - Moe's valley, UT (St. George, sandstone)

Last week in Feb - TBD (lost rocks? black mtn new areas? bishop? ideas?etc...)

March 20th to April 11th - Joe's Valley, UT - amazing world-class sandstone

Session at our house tonight and tomorrow night around dark.
V13's in Tahoe:
"Party Animal" Jesse Bonin
"Wick's sit" Charley Barret

Try Hard Everyone!

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.