Saturday, November 21, 2009

Tahoe comps & "The Hatchling" V11

The snow is here which means that it's time to break out the snowboard/skis for many of you "poly-enthusiasts."
The hardcores will now be turning their sights on Bishop and training indoors/competitions and perhaps travel to Ibex/Joe's/Hueco.
That brings us to High altitude Fitness (HAF), for those of you who do not know, is the BEST climbing gym around.  They have a full work-out facility with machines/weights/campus board/rings/sick bouldering/auto-belay, etc.etc.etc.
December 5th they are having the first of three bouldering/climbing competitions for the season.  It will be an ABS competition with $$$$ in cash and prizes.
The next comps will be in Feb and April (see flyer @
I've been to a previous comp (a dyno comp) which was awesome.  Super high energy.  This is a great way to further coalesce our community and to train/get stronger and to get a ton of shwag and maybe some paper money too!
Sadly, I will be OOT for the first comp.  I hear local Rock-Ninja Joel Zerr will be coming back from the NW to set for this comp.  Joel has experience setting for the pros at World Cups, and is a great setter.  Routes should be super fun!
Start training!
I think Monday I will have a session at my house or HAF depending on the roads, etc.
For eye candy:  Here is an amazing first ascent I was able to nab in the Rocklands of South Africa.  It is a proud line that I named "The Hatchling."  At V11 (font. 8A)  it was no gimme!  Jesse almost sent this last summer, but hurt his ankle falling from the last hard move.  The boulder is amazing because you can actually rock it back and forth on its pedestal!  SICK!  Daniel Woods made the quick second ascent as did Wills Young and Paul Robinson.  Walker Emerson sent this year as did Nalle Hukkataival and others.  I have done many many first ascents, but this one is my only World Class Climb.  I have footage of the FA and will put it in my new film "Try Harder" which I am currently working on.

Seek perfection of character. Respect others.

Tuesday, November 10, 2009


Fall conditions are SICKY!  The rock is GRIPPY!

Siemay and I have been in Yosemite the last two weeks.  I was "working."  ...Many of you know my arrangement there and some of you have taken advantage of poker games and a dope pad in the valley!

Siemay had an amazing trip sending a ton of stuff including "Tap Dance" V10:

Siemay was also the poker champion for the trip winning an impressive number of nights.

I sent some cool classics as well, but mostly had really bad split tips from trying to do a hard Tahoe project (still undone.)

Here's a cool send I had:

The plan is to go back next weekend as well.

We are now TRAINING since the Bishop season is about to begin in full swing.  That means campusing and woody sessions at our house!

Thursday I will have a mega session at the house if the weather is bad, if it is good I will probably go to the new area across the lake.

Hope everyone is enjoying fall!

In Tahoe news, this is a rad new V8 I put up at The West Shore area.  I called it "Sisyphus" after the Greek myth.  Amazing crimpy compression to a committing deadpoint.  On the same boulder as "Fortress," another true classic climb.


Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.