Check it:
Back to regularly scheduled training mañana! Couple projects that need to go down, ya heard?
I also have to keep training for American Ninja Warrior.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
Wednesday, May 8, 2013
Rainy Rest Day Recon
Here's a photo summary of today's rainy day recon of upper North Woodford's boulders. While there was some great potential, it was a 45 min uphill slog (in the rain, no less.) Thanks to Zun for simulating pad/gear weight.
Check it:
Back to regularly scheduled training mañana! Couple projects that need to go down, ya heard?
I also have to keep training for American Ninja Warrior.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
Check it:
Back to regularly scheduled training mañana! Couple projects that need to go down, ya heard?
I also have to keep training for American Ninja Warrior.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
Friday, May 3, 2013
Kill Worthy V8
Documenting for the new Tahoe trifecta of guidebooks is a labor of love. Ironically, there are many new FAs that come out of the woodwork during our documentation. Here the team gives some love to an overlooked bloc near "He Man" across from Hope Valley Cafe (which incidentally has amazing homemade pies and Magic Hat beer on tap. Such a sick little cafe/sandwich shop. Tell Lisa that Noah sent you!)
This short but powerful 8 banger has some super nifty grips and movements! Here Jon Thompson pulls a joint FA for a sick new little number. Worth the stop and less than a minute up the road from the Local's Area (home to Siemay's Arête and the intimidating highball Noah's Arête.)
Get some & Try Hard!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
Tuesday, April 30, 2013
Fernando
My friend Fernando died.
Fernando had that rare zeal; that ability to pour himself into adventure and excitement, to laugh at just about everything, including himself.
Fernando spent a bunch of time in Tahoe bouldering with us locals and repeating some of the harder lines around the south shore. You see, Fernando was great at just about everything he did. His infectious smile and happiness made everyone want to be his friend. He was kind to everyone and had no malice in him.
One day, Fernando was climbing at Eratica and he was keen on getting the second ascent of a slightly obscure and very difficult line that I had done called the Bunny Grinder. He told me he loved the name and that the line looked impossible; much harder than the grade we gave it. That's why Fernando wanted to try it: it looked impossible.
Fernando spent 3 days on this climb falling at the same spot near the top. I never once saw him get frustrated. He would take the awkward fall over and over and laugh madly about it. Finally, Fernando did the Bunny Grinder and he was so psyched. He even did it in sub-optimal conditions (I also spent 3 days on the rig in perfect conditions to get it done.)
No one even tries the Bunny Grinder and it is very intimidating. Fernando walked up to intimidating obstacles, and he laughed them into submission.
He lived his life like this and was respected and loved by many, including me.
I am honored to have known you, Fernando.
I will miss you brother! We will all miss you.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
Fernando had that rare zeal; that ability to pour himself into adventure and excitement, to laugh at just about everything, including himself.
Fernando spent a bunch of time in Tahoe bouldering with us locals and repeating some of the harder lines around the south shore. You see, Fernando was great at just about everything he did. His infectious smile and happiness made everyone want to be his friend. He was kind to everyone and had no malice in him.
One day, Fernando was climbing at Eratica and he was keen on getting the second ascent of a slightly obscure and very difficult line that I had done called the Bunny Grinder. He told me he loved the name and that the line looked impossible; much harder than the grade we gave it. That's why Fernando wanted to try it: it looked impossible.
Fernando spent 3 days on this climb falling at the same spot near the top. I never once saw him get frustrated. He would take the awkward fall over and over and laugh madly about it. Finally, Fernando did the Bunny Grinder and he was so psyched. He even did it in sub-optimal conditions (I also spent 3 days on the rig in perfect conditions to get it done.)
No one even tries the Bunny Grinder and it is very intimidating. Fernando walked up to intimidating obstacles, and he laughed them into submission.
He lived his life like this and was respected and loved by many, including me.
I am honored to have known you, Fernando.
I will miss you brother! We will all miss you.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
Tuesday, April 9, 2013
A Leaf on the River...
Sorry that there haven't been any posts for a while; I've been sucked into the vortex!
Here are some pics of what has been going on. I leave it to you to decode the stories and messages here.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
Here are some pics of what has been going on. I leave it to you to decode the stories and messages here.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
Saturday, March 9, 2013
Force of Nature V14
SICK!
My good friend and lifer Isaac Caldiero just sent one of his hardest lines to date. After close to 60 days of effort, the "FORCE OF NATURE" just went down. His partner in crime, Laura, was there with Siemay, Zun and I to film and lend support. Walker Kearney and his awesome sweetheart of a daughter, Hammy were there as well.
I got psyched. In fact, in this awesome video you can hear me going nuts. I would love to think I added that 0.1% of energy that helped Isaac try a little harder and send, but I think that is just fanciful thinking and unlikely since Isaac is such a world class climber. Talk about vicarious psych though! Isaac and I have climbed quite a bit together and his attitude and philosophy of our sport are very impressive. He and Laura are also like family to us and baby Z.
Here is the vid:
Force of Nature V14 from Shibidaang on Vimeo.
It was a gift to show up and see this rig go down. Anyhow, our time in St. George was awesome and I will get into some detail in a future post. I was in fairly good shape, albeit a bit heavy. I was able to do some V9-11 climbs, but of note, I could only do a couple moves on Isaac's line! Normally, even on V13 or 14 I can hold positions and moves "seem" doable. This line is legit. Hard as balls.
We also spent some good time with our old friend and lifer Walker Kearney (author of the Kearney Journy blog: http://kearneyjourney.blogspot.com) and he has detailed some of the new spots we were developing on is awesome blog. He has many photos of the amazing sandstone in the region. He also was climbing very strong and actually ran laps on Isaac's "Atlas" V12. Rad.
Check it out!
Tahoe is socked in, so we have mostly been doing classics in Bishop with Wills and Lisa and also developing some new areas down south of Bishop.
Seek perfection of character, respect others and Try Hard. Noah as usual
Friday, February 15, 2013
A "Little" climbing in Moe's
Zun has started his training...
More to come.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
Wednesday, January 16, 2013
Sierra Buttes - Paul Bunyan, V13 FA
My good friends Joel & Kyle spent a good bit of time working an amazing new line out at the Buttes called Paul Bunyan. They teamed up for the same day FA/SA after more than a week of work each.
I first worked this line with Joel several years ago, and although I could do all the moves, it is all V8-10 climbing with no rest and it is a long ass problem. The end problem is a stand start V10 that is really aggressive. Add a long V10 roof to the beginning, and you get a face full of hard.
This is a video that Joel edited of the Buttes and of the FA and several other mega classics up there. If you haven't been, you need to go. There will be a section in the guide devoted to the Buttes.
Check it:
Congrats to Joel on an Epic world class V13 First Ascent, and to Kyle O for a same day Second!
Kudos, Bawse!
PS. Jesse Bonin did a lower sit start on the right arête at V12, but if you added this lower sit, I bet Paul Bunyan would easily clock in at V14. Yes, it's classic (ie. not a star destroyer.) Anyone?
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
Tuesday, January 1, 2013
My Woody
HAPPY NEW YEAR! 2013!!!
Well, now that Tahoe is under water, and all the skiers/boarders are all psyched, it's time for us climbers to go on road trips to the desert and... TIME TO TRAIN!
This is the time of the year when we get the strongest, by far. Campusing, working problems, finger work, peter-pans, resistance... Taking it back to the boulders is one of the best feelings around if you do it right and don't get injured. Which is easy to do, by the way. Especially for us old codgers. Warming up and stretching are absolutely critical to getting stronger and having fun. Anatomy breaks when it is not lubricated and prepared properly.
Here is my wall; the third I've built:
Needless to say, I am super psyched on this wall. It's like my garden. Sometimes I warm up on it for projects outdoors. There is a 5.10 jug haul warm up around the perimeter. As you can see, there is a system/campus stair-case on the right side. Although I built most of it alone, my close friend Brian Arnold deserves a major hat tip for helping slog lumbar, design brainstorming and helping with initial framing. As one of my carpenter buddies told me "Damn, son! You overbuilt the $#!+ out of this thing!"
And... NO TAPE CLUTTER!
When I was living in Japan, I learned this handy problem recording method:
I drew this out by hand over a couple of 1 hour sessions. Obviously, I don't change the holds. Ever. That being said, I do add holds where I can, and the movement possibilities are close to endless. It is truly a kinesthetic library... I position each hold with great care.
We have over 100 sweet problems recorded (in a binder with xerox copies in plastic sheaths. Also with markers, a laser pointer, etc. it's legit.) We don't record the warm ups or the crappy/tweaky problems normally. We name and grade the lines and give them quality stars...
Siemay gripping tightly on my woody...
But, here's the best part by far: about 50% of the wall is REAL ROCK HOLDS.
I have spent years and years collecting holds of all kinds. I love screw-ons the most, and have made real rock screw-ons from 4-star holds that I have collected from all over the world. (4-star = flat back (this is the only star you can "create,") ergonomic shape, unique shape generally holdable in a only a few exact best ways, and high rock quality (We have a couple volcanics from the Happy's that have exploded on us! Fun and exciting, but not what ya want.))
I have holds from Yosemite, Joe's, Moab, The Dirty South, St. George, Japan, Bishop, Tahoe, Hueco, Flagstaff, Mallorca, Rocklands, Canada, Mexico (Portrero...). Seriously! ...I tried to get a few from Font, but they were no good and broke quickly.
Of course there are heaters (This is my garage,) bright energy saving flood lights and a killer sound system hooked up to our iThings.
One final consideration: we removed the old garage door with the center bar and bought a side reeling silent door opener. It's a really nice insulated garage door.
Well there you have it! Together with a strong will, some close friends and some dedication, those double digit projects will go down a whole lot easier.
Try Hard, Climbers!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard.
Noah as usual.
Well, now that Tahoe is under water, and all the skiers/boarders are all psyched, it's time for us climbers to go on road trips to the desert and... TIME TO TRAIN!
This is the time of the year when we get the strongest, by far. Campusing, working problems, finger work, peter-pans, resistance... Taking it back to the boulders is one of the best feelings around if you do it right and don't get injured. Which is easy to do, by the way. Especially for us old codgers. Warming up and stretching are absolutely critical to getting stronger and having fun. Anatomy breaks when it is not lubricated and prepared properly.
Here is my wall; the third I've built:
Needless to say, I am super psyched on this wall. It's like my garden. Sometimes I warm up on it for projects outdoors. There is a 5.10 jug haul warm up around the perimeter. As you can see, there is a system/campus stair-case on the right side. Although I built most of it alone, my close friend Brian Arnold deserves a major hat tip for helping slog lumbar, design brainstorming and helping with initial framing. As one of my carpenter buddies told me "Damn, son! You overbuilt the $#!+ out of this thing!"
And... NO TAPE CLUTTER!
When I was living in Japan, I learned this handy problem recording method:
I drew this out by hand over a couple of 1 hour sessions. Obviously, I don't change the holds. Ever. That being said, I do add holds where I can, and the movement possibilities are close to endless. It is truly a kinesthetic library... I position each hold with great care.
We have over 100 sweet problems recorded (in a binder with xerox copies in plastic sheaths. Also with markers, a laser pointer, etc. it's legit.) We don't record the warm ups or the crappy/tweaky problems normally. We name and grade the lines and give them quality stars...
Siemay gripping tightly on my woody...
But, here's the best part by far: about 50% of the wall is REAL ROCK HOLDS.
I have spent years and years collecting holds of all kinds. I love screw-ons the most, and have made real rock screw-ons from 4-star holds that I have collected from all over the world. (4-star = flat back (this is the only star you can "create,") ergonomic shape, unique shape generally holdable in a only a few exact best ways, and high rock quality (We have a couple volcanics from the Happy's that have exploded on us! Fun and exciting, but not what ya want.))
I have holds from Yosemite, Joe's, Moab, The Dirty South, St. George, Japan, Bishop, Tahoe, Hueco, Flagstaff, Mallorca, Rocklands, Canada, Mexico (Portrero...). Seriously! ...I tried to get a few from Font, but they were no good and broke quickly.
Of course there are heaters (This is my garage,) bright energy saving flood lights and a killer sound system hooked up to our iThings.
One final consideration: we removed the old garage door with the center bar and bought a side reeling silent door opener. It's a really nice insulated garage door.
Well there you have it! Together with a strong will, some close friends and some dedication, those double digit projects will go down a whole lot easier.
Try Hard, Climbers!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard.
Noah as usual.
Tuesday, December 25, 2012
Amazing New Tahoe South Shore Zone
MERRY CHRISTMAS!
I have a nice gift for all the South shore locals to keep you psyched for when the snow eventually melts:
Echoland. The biggest Jackpot of my life.
What follows are photos and descriptions of a new area that I discovered and am developing. I have told close friends about this area, but with the exception of Joel Zerr who has made it out once before the snow came, I've mostly been developing solo.
above you can see the main cliff which will need to be developed. It has amazing features and very good route potential. The boulder in the foreground has not been touched yet... There are probably a hundred boulders and hundreds of new lines to do.
Look at this overhang! If anything goes here, it will be very hard.
Tall. amazing 4 star proj on the right with many other lines all around.
4 star TALL slopey pockets and eyebrows/rails.
Great potential.
Very nice overhang higher in the talus.
The boulders extend down to the forest floor. This is a big boulder.
Quality Granite. Project.
"Hitotsu" 4 star V7. Tall and proud. The first line I did. Solo mission.
Massive Talus boulders up to 30' tall! Fixable landings for the most part.
Sick hanging Proj that Joel and I worked. Top out is the crux!
"Futatsu" V8. The second line I did, solo. Really intricate climbing up perfect slopers. Very Fontish.
The "Ninja Warrior" V9. Also a nice line with a really cool swing move.
Cool projects.
More projects. Kind of overwhelming to be honest.
This is a tricky spot to get to. I have hiked in 3-4 different ways looking for the best way. It's about 30' hiking. Too hard to describe where it's at, but this area is much more extensive than Eratica or Caples and with better stone.
I made it out there 4 times before the snow came this year and told some good friends about it, but there are so many projects going up and lines to repeat that we have mostly decided to save this area for next summer!
Perhaps we can hook all the crews up and develop this astounding new zone in time for the eventual Dave Hatchett south shore and satellite guides.
Finding and developing new zones and lines is a passion of mine, and Tahoe has been an amazing place to contribute to the climbing history.
For Tahoe, it truly is a golden age of rock climbing.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
Friday, December 21, 2012
Klem Time V10
Joel and I scoped a new zone it at Doyle, CA the other day and discovered a zone with about 50 new problems.
Joel got the ultimate score with his quick send of "Klem Time" V10. I pretty much did all the moves in the biting cold, but did not have the gumption to go for the link. Joel, on the other hand, manned up and got down in a big way! Dude dug DEEP! Screaming and cutting loose several times on horrible holds, rebating his way up the technical power face. Check it:
This is the position of the stand start (about V7). The sit adds 3 burly moves on bad holds with negligible feet smears and a lot of footwork. Sick!
Klem Time is definitely hard for the grade, and we contemplated slapping 11 points on it, but its nice to have solid grades... We shall see what others think. Either way it's a three star classic that pays homage to a climbing legend who has impacted our sport in such a positive way. Plus, you've really got to try hard on this one!!!
After the crux is a heady V4 top section over a so so landing. We only had two pads, but ideally, you should have 3 or more.
Here are some more pics:
One move in from the (crouch) start.
By the time you get up high, you are on oppositional holds that are mostly secure. Heady!
After this sweet line, we went and put up a nice crimper V8 with exceptional moves and enigmatic sequences. "Semi High Profile" is a must do V8! These problems and many others will eventually make it into a future Dave Hatchett Tahoe satellite guide.
There are still many problems to be done at the new spot, and of course there is the as yet unfinished "Diamond Project" which is likely in the V12 range. I can't wait to see this one. Doyle is a massive zone with mostly so so rock. The climbs are really great though, and there is so much rock that there has to be a ton of good lines... and there is!
Lastly, kudos to Jesse Bonin for taking down a really cool line in South Lake called "Solasit" ungraded. Jesse suggests V9 for this climb but is awaiting consensus. this climb is low down in the Mountain Beavers and has been waiting for a true first ascent (I had done a high start in summer at about V7, but the classic line starts on good holds down low. Nice one, Jesse! Weather and conditions permitting, This new line is high on my list!
That being said, I hear we are getting up to 6 feet of snow this weekend.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
Joel got the ultimate score with his quick send of "Klem Time" V10. I pretty much did all the moves in the biting cold, but did not have the gumption to go for the link. Joel, on the other hand, manned up and got down in a big way! Dude dug DEEP! Screaming and cutting loose several times on horrible holds, rebating his way up the technical power face. Check it:
This is the position of the stand start (about V7). The sit adds 3 burly moves on bad holds with negligible feet smears and a lot of footwork. Sick!
Klem Time is definitely hard for the grade, and we contemplated slapping 11 points on it, but its nice to have solid grades... We shall see what others think. Either way it's a three star classic that pays homage to a climbing legend who has impacted our sport in such a positive way. Plus, you've really got to try hard on this one!!!
After the crux is a heady V4 top section over a so so landing. We only had two pads, but ideally, you should have 3 or more.
Here are some more pics:
One move in from the (crouch) start.
By the time you get up high, you are on oppositional holds that are mostly secure. Heady!
After this sweet line, we went and put up a nice crimper V8 with exceptional moves and enigmatic sequences. "Semi High Profile" is a must do V8! These problems and many others will eventually make it into a future Dave Hatchett Tahoe satellite guide.
There are still many problems to be done at the new spot, and of course there is the as yet unfinished "Diamond Project" which is likely in the V12 range. I can't wait to see this one. Doyle is a massive zone with mostly so so rock. The climbs are really great though, and there is so much rock that there has to be a ton of good lines... and there is!
Lastly, kudos to Jesse Bonin for taking down a really cool line in South Lake called "Solasit" ungraded. Jesse suggests V9 for this climb but is awaiting consensus. this climb is low down in the Mountain Beavers and has been waiting for a true first ascent (I had done a high start in summer at about V7, but the classic line starts on good holds down low. Nice one, Jesse! Weather and conditions permitting, This new line is high on my list!
That being said, I hear we are getting up to 6 feet of snow this weekend.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
Monday, December 17, 2012
Noah's Ark, new V10 @ Bliss
Before I even moved to Tahoe about 7-8 years ago, I didn't know much about the scene except for what my good friend Jesse Bonin showed me and all the amazing new lines he was putting up.
Noah's Ark V10 FA @ Middle Bliss
I bought the guidebook and started checking out the established zones always thinking of moving out here since I knew the potential was vast.
After doing the harder lines at Bliss, I decided to add a sweet problem which had been overlooked for good reason. From a distance, it looks like an impossible slopey top out, from close up, it looks just as unrealistic. Surprisingly, though, and after a good scrubbing, some Fontainebleau like slopers and a really good technical mantle revealed itself. The end result was the stand start to this amazing line which felt about V8. It's a really neat, hard to fathom problem that is insecure up bad slopers. In great conditions, the line (now) feels more like V7.
Shortly after the FA, I spied the obvious sit thinking "someone will surely add that!" Well, I finally added the sit start the other day, and let me say; It is a terrific addition! We called it "Noah's Ark" since the weather forecast was for a deluge in Tahoe.
Locals Dave Hatchett and Mitch Underhill repeated the stand quickly and Mitch is looking great on the sit as well.
The moves and grips are really cool and the line will probably see a lot of attention. It is a must do double-d for the local connoisseur or visiting hard(wo)man alike.
We had been blessed with another snowless winter so far in Tahoe-land, but alas, the snow has come and it is officially road trip/B-town/Doyle and other desert areas time...
Keep your eyes peeled for an upcoming post about a MEGA new area I found and have been developing in Tahoe on the South shore. This is a total jackpot find! Pics and post coming.
So much to do in Tahoe!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
Noah's Ark V10 FA @ Middle Bliss
I bought the guidebook and started checking out the established zones always thinking of moving out here since I knew the potential was vast.
After doing the harder lines at Bliss, I decided to add a sweet problem which had been overlooked for good reason. From a distance, it looks like an impossible slopey top out, from close up, it looks just as unrealistic. Surprisingly, though, and after a good scrubbing, some Fontainebleau like slopers and a really good technical mantle revealed itself. The end result was the stand start to this amazing line which felt about V8. It's a really neat, hard to fathom problem that is insecure up bad slopers. In great conditions, the line (now) feels more like V7.
Shortly after the FA, I spied the obvious sit thinking "someone will surely add that!" Well, I finally added the sit start the other day, and let me say; It is a terrific addition! We called it "Noah's Ark" since the weather forecast was for a deluge in Tahoe.
Locals Dave Hatchett and Mitch Underhill repeated the stand quickly and Mitch is looking great on the sit as well.
The moves and grips are really cool and the line will probably see a lot of attention. It is a must do double-d for the local connoisseur or visiting hard(wo)man alike.
We had been blessed with another snowless winter so far in Tahoe-land, but alas, the snow has come and it is officially road trip/B-town/Doyle and other desert areas time...
Keep your eyes peeled for an upcoming post about a MEGA new area I found and have been developing in Tahoe on the South shore. This is a total jackpot find! Pics and post coming.
So much to do in Tahoe!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
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