I've been feeling quite strong this season, perhaps the strongest I've ever felt partly due to the fact that I've lost a lot of weight since switching to a mostly plant based diet.
With this in mind, I've been looking to visit old projects and do new hard First Ascents in Tahoe before leaving this magical place.
The other day we went to the Prosser boulder, which is described in the recently released and highly acclaimed bouldering guide by Dave Hatchett.
I did 3 new problems on the boulder; two of which are described as projects and the third is not even mentioned or drawn into the guide... It exists now!
Scope this right hee-ya:
"Goodbye Tahoe" V8****. This climb is absolutely mega; V5 or 6 to a hard radical finishing sideways dyno to a sloper off of horrible feet. Climbs really nice and the throw is committing. Took her down in a few tries, so I think this was a project due to heat and the fact that it looks waaaaayyyy harder than it actually is. Chill T.O.
"Gloomy" V9*** ...Describes the day, my initial spirits, and it is a play on words. Really great movement and changed my mood immediately. Got me psyoiched! Sit on detached flake; right on good hold on top of nose, left on good side pull, pull left to slopers, and right to a bad intermediate and a big move to the "gloomy" hold. Sick line for the big kids! Once I figured the bates, it wasn't too bad.
The third line is also listed as a project, but is not a great line; perhaps one star. Basically V9 thin-ness through a weird pistol move left leg. Between the classic V5 and the V6. Listed in the book as a proj that was V4 before it broke. Meh.
Carry on. Go scope the new lines! The 2 mentioned above are especially super worthy.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.
From CH to CA
1 month ago