Saturday, December 31, 2011

Deja Vu V9

This amazing boulder has been climbed on by all the legendary climbers of the Tahoe region. Visiting climbers and locals alike are psyched on the rock quality and sublime granite movement...

There are now 21 boulder problems on the classic roadside Momma Cat boulder. Can you do them all?

Team Asana Ninja Kyle O'Meara demos... There are several updated lines on the momma cat:

1. Blue Star V7: start as for classic west face v2, work up and left on delicate slab moves, gain small right hand crimp in seam and dyno to top. Fun.

2. Headband V7: same start as last prob, but turn arête to join with finish of Dano's line. Really cool movement getting around the arête!

3. Sour Diesel V6: start as for classic v5 sit on north face (same as in video above) work up and right to join Dano's finish.

4. Deja Vu Half V9: see video above!

5. Deja Vu V10: start on right arête, same as Dano's start, climb up a couple moves, work straight left into Deja Vu Half, same finish.

...Yeah, I know it's a traverse. It's flippin' rad. Shut up and go try it, it's awesome!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Rocklands from LT11

Our friends at Louder Than 11's excellent blog bring you this sick piece of motivation.

Straight Out Of Africa - FEATURE LENGTH from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

I have been to Rocklands twice and have personally done some of these exquisite lines. This place is insane fun. My favorite personal sends were Black Velvet, Gliding and the 5 star Shosholoza, potential contender for the best problem in the world.

My recommendation is to get into amazing shape (best if you can climb v12) and go sample true 4 star climbing at its best.

Wow, my hands are sweating and I can't wait to get back to Mother Africa!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Team Asana in B-town

Truly great editing from Jon Thompson.

Check it out:

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Thursday, December 15, 2011

Avoid The Wart V8

This is a problem Jarrad Wycof and I Put up a little ways back. It's at a sick Jesse Bonin area called the Beavers in south lake. Ultra accessible, this classic little area is a couple minutes from the car down at an obvious pullout/river cross on the left at the end of south upper truckee rd in Myers.

Many classic lines at all grades, and, we discovered, cleaned and did some new problems on a new boulder left untouched by the original development spree.

It's mid December and we are cranking in Tahoe with no snow! Awesome. I hope it never snows, though all my snowboard/ski buddies are all butthurt right about now.

Here's a cute pic of little Zun in his favorite Bruce lee outfit...

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

My best Spotting Send

My best spot ever:

Here's a classic! I've been dredging up some old footage, and this is James Litz climbing Fuc Yo, a sweet V9 at Hounds Ears.

It was wet that day and James fell off the last move, although this was an easy problem for him.

Luckily, I was there to catch him!

I would grade this spot at V9 onsight.

Unfortunately, it broke my nose... But James Lived!

I believe spotting is a skill, just like climbing or falling. Remember to train your spotting! focus on the climbers movement and center body-mass, not there hands, etc.

Try Hard to catch them at their center body-mass or at least take weight off their descent.

...I did send this climb as well and it is amazing!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Monday, November 28, 2011

Vaporized V11

You gotta see this amazing new line:

Vaporized from Joel Zerr on Vimeo.

An amazing new line in Lake Tahoe. Jon Thompson and Dave Ficter found this mega gem the same day they found pure bliss. I later cleaned this line up, and Red (Jon) and I started to work on it in the summer heat. Charlie B even tried a little in summer, and despite being his steeze, the sweltering conditions kept this project in plum-state until early this fall when Joel and Kyle went into attack mode. Sadly, Red had broken his hand, I had torqued my shoulder (or wait no... Maybe this is when Zun was born...), and Charles... Well, Charles went to Utah to climb cracks. So we will all have to go back to do this Tahoe test piece!

Amazing edit by Zerr Productions as usual.

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

The Ronin Project

This is the awesome Ronin power project in South Lake that is likely V13 or more.

The Ronin Project is the sit start moves into a really nice V7 stand problem called the Last Samurai. It is an open project and super cool. Think you can do it?

Here's a little video of the project and another sweet V9 on the same boulder called "Double Dragon."

This boulder is South of Markleeville, CA off Hwy 4, a couple miles past monitor pass take off.  it is on the East side of the Rd. in a drainage just before a bridge and a chossy sport climbing area.  The sport climbs are mostly good and the crag has about 20 routes.  It is called the "True Value" crag.  The
Ronin is about 2 minutes from the car park.  Steep & Fun!  Get some!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Holy $#!?, Kyle

Kyle O'Meara is (still) on fire. Lord have mercy, when will it end? See the vid and read the comments.

Midnight Lightning - flash v9
Thriller - flash v10 (holy crap!)
The Force - flash v9
Wall to Wall Carpet - flash v9
No Holds Bard - flash v7
Spanish Fly - flash v8
Moffat Start - flash v9
Don't Make Me kick your ass - flash v9
The Diamond - flash v8
Once Upon a Time - flash v3
Woodyard Arete - flash v6
Bruce Lee v8
Bates' Problem v5
Heart of Darkness v9
Good Vibrations v10
Across the Tracks v10
Cocaine Corner v6
6 Degrees v9
Pride v9
Diesel Power v10

Solo in the Valley from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.


Two days in Yosemite from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.

...This is all over a couple weeks. I have been climbing in the valley for a long time and have never heard of anything like this. I saw Daniel Woods wrestle with Thriller all day in good temps. I am psyched for Kyle, this may indeed only be the beginning!

This is what happens when strength and expert technique come together.

Kyle has also told me he feels the grades are right on with respect to his Tahoe experience.

Incidentally, I spent last weekend with Kyle in Bishop. Besides splitting a tip after almost doing the Mandala second go; with tape, he flashed Fall Guy v9 and did stained glass sit v10 in a couple goes...

Bow down!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Friday, November 18, 2011

Kyle @ Soda Springs

Cool video about a solo mission that Kyle took to Soda Springs. More great Tahoe stone that is so much fun to climb!

Donner Summit Boulders from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.

By the way, it's December and there is no snow in Tahoe! We went bouldering today at a rad new Jay Sell area and it was perfect conditions. I hope it never snows!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Friday, November 11, 2011


Tell me this doesn't make you want to climb in Tahoe...

Hat tip to Red for another fine contribution. Most of the Tahoe crew is elsewhere this week because of snow. A Bunch of us are headed back to Bishop to hit the gold stone and grow the much needed super-leather. More to come.

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Baby Zun & Siemay

From our most recent sojourn to Bishop!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Sneak Attack V9

The boyz are at it again!

I've gotta get out there and do this thing! ...Looks so cool.

Sicky edit, Red!

There are now over 1000 problems at Sugar Pine, the guide is 95% done and should be ready for next season. Go buy a mountain bike!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Friday, November 4, 2011

Army of Darkness V9

This is an awesome new problem that Joel Zerr and I put up this summer. It's really amazing and super fun with a spectacular move to a horrible hold. This problem was a new addition at Jesse Bonin's camouflage forest and is on the Bruce Campbell boulder; A mega V5 also showcased in Joel's video. Joel has a real talent for video editing and I can't wait to see what else he "throws together!". ...I highly recommend checking out his other vids.

We are in Bishop for the week with a Frenchy, D.O., Zerr & O'meara the assassin. I am healing a tweaked shoulder but Siemay is back at it. She sent a three-star V7 yesterday at the beavers called "one eyed Willy." I hope to go back and film her on this rad line.

I plan on posting a bunch of smaller posts with media and pics over the meat of the season to keep us PSYCHED!

The weather is good, people are motivated, Zun is growing like a weed and work is on the back burner as the season kicks into high gear!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Welcome To The Future

Well, Red done broke his hand. Mtn bike mishap leaving sugar 3... But, like the trooper he is, he's still rallying with the crew and has turned his focus on filming and editing.

Here's our session on Jesse Bonin's awesome "Welcome to the Future"

A true Tahoe test piece of slopey compression.

Get some!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Sugar season in full swing

From Red:

Curtain call is a new rad V11 jump start that Kyle O'Meara put up at sugar 2. Kyle has really hit his stride! After an impressive 2nd try ascent of The Ashtray V11 and Blast Off V10 and Sneak Attack Low V9 and 3rd go second ascent of Focal Point V10 last weekend, this weekend he did Ground Control V11 in a session, Welcome to the Future V11 in a session, Pure Bliss V9, he flashed Integrity sit V9, flashed Pimp Juice V9 and flashed the technical American Hero V9 in the sun! He also did all the moves to the stand start of the Creekbed proj at South Bliss which he could not quite finish off but felt to be V12. The first move has still not gone, but the whole shebang will likely weigh in at V13. Great climbing Kyle! (try to hear Cartman's voice when reading about Kyle's achievements and you'll be psyched.)

Joel and I made great progress on Welcome to the future, Joel fell off the last move from the start several times and will polish it off soon. we both did the stand (V9 called "The Future Present") and I linked into the stand. I can't wait to do this thing... I can't believe I haven't done this one yet either as it is right there near the road and only 25 mins from the homestead. Great line, Jesse! A Four star climb indeed; one of the best in Tahoe.

Here's an Ian Cotter-Brown vid of Welcome to the Future et Alia:

Just a comment on grades: I'm not sure what consensus is for many of these things... I know on 8a, many climbers take Welcome to the Future as a 12. I think it's 12 in Ian's video, too. If I compare it to a Font climb, or dirty south climb it feels like 8a to me in good conditions. Like the Egg in Squamish, but not as hard as Dominator or other 12s I've worked on/done. Who knows? Also, it's in the range of +\- 1 grade, so who cares... Just hope not to offend anyone who took 12 on this rig, maybe it is! Doesn't really matter though since it's a 4 star classic. I think that should be the main emphasis anyhow. I'd love to hear thoughts on this in the comment section if you care to opine. I also thought Focal Point was a 9 banger since I FA'd the thing in the sun. Who knows. With Yosemite so close, where grades are generally stout, many a Bay area strongman has felt some Tahoe grades to be soft, although I think they are on par with most other areas in the world, actually.

Anyhow, The Season is in full swing. Apparently, Jesse sent his V11/12 project up at the Triads (upper Mtn beavers) and there is a whole lot of new rock being developed way up there! ...The hike is over an hour though, so motivation is a must.

Personally, I did some cool 10's at rock creek: Osama eliminate and the campground arête. I have been doing cool FA's at Sugarpine with Hatchett and crew including "The Anniversary" V9 dyno, "Deadbeat Dad" V8, "Shaft Adapter" V8 (flash), and the super mega "such great heights" V8 (flash.) I am super close on Welcome to the future and really want to go check out the Ashtray, Blast Off, Curtain Call, Sneak Attack Low and the Hercules proj. If I get around to it. This week we are headed down to check out Hartley near Mammoth. Siemay is getting back in shape and moving well on the rock for someone who recently gave birth to a little ninja.

speaking of which, Zun is 9 weeks old and working on grip strength. He is smiling and crying, shitting and sleeping and has already made it out to 5 different climbing spots including a couple with long approaches.

Get psyched, get out there and CRANK!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

The Ashtray

This amazing line is classic. Chris Sharma opened this line many years ago in the Josh Lowell movie "Rampage." Here Kyle O'Meara sends it second try! I spoke with Chris about this line at a recent trade show. He had fond memories of it and asked me if it had seen repeats and how hard it was felt to be. Somehow, I have not done this line yet. After seeing this video, it is back at the top of my list. Film and edit by Joel Zerr who has also done the line several times.

The Ashtray

In other sad news, Steve Jobs has finally lost his life to pancreatic cancer. This amazing human being gave us wonderful gifts, and he changed the world in profound ways. The irony is not lost on me as I write this post from my iPad. Something tells me Steve would have appreciated Kyle's mellifluous movement on this gymnastic Sharma Tahoe classic.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Monday, October 3, 2011

Sugarpine Goodness

From Red:

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Evolv Shoes: Why I use them exclusively

Evolv shoes are the best shoes on the market. This is an opinion. I have been climbing for 20 years now and used just about every kind of shoes along the way.  From beginner to expert, Evolv provides the best climbing shoe experience period.

 FULL DISCLOSURE: I get free Evolv gear/shoes. However, as a physician, the cost of these items is insignificant and I would only climb in/use the best gear possible. I have been a Pontas man for several years now; they are the only shoes I would wear. Now however, there are several other options that I employ in my climbing that I shall review in detail. I am very loyal to my sponsors, but I actually had to switch to Evolv from MadRock since I felt I could not ethically endorse MadRock's products since they did not work well for me and my climbing style.

Here are some of the amazing, amazing shoes that Evolv offers:

From left to right these are: 1. "Ollie" flip-flop 2. Shaman 3. Bandit SC 4. Pontas. Here is another view:

What makes Evolv shoes the best on the market?

 1. Wearability. These shoes perform right out of the box and only get better. They exhibit the shortest break-in period of any shoe I have ever worn. They fit like a glove and are by far the best balance between sensitivity and strength of any shoe I have ever tried.

2. Durability. These shoes last. Unlike 5.10's (Which I also love) which break down easily and last a month or less, Evolv products last until the rubber is climbed off, and then through the re-sole, too. Because of their lifespan, the cost of the shoe represents a better value in a money to longevity perspective. These shoes also smell less than other shoes I have used, for what it's worth.

 3. Comfort. This seems to be a foot shape issue and therefore a personal attribute, however, I have noted that people don't take their Evolvs off at the crag. This can actually reduce the life of the shoe, but it is great for the gym and is evidence of the glove-like feel of Evolv shoes.

 4. Customer Service. Have you tried to talk to some shoe companies about returns, sizing, advice, etc? I have heard overwhelmingly that Evolv rocks in this dept. and can attest to it from personal experience. I switched shoe sponsors several years ago partially for this reason, and partially because Madrock climbs horribly on granite.

 5. Philosophy. Evolv is not about climbing hard and being the best. Sure they have Chris and other bad-ass role-models on the team, but Evolv is about fun and adventure and fulfilment in the climbing lifestyle. This philosophy makes them focus on quality above anything else. Like Apple's iPad, iPhone, etc. Evolv has made products that have brand appeal.

Specifics of the Evolv shoes I wear:

 The new Shaman is Sick, as is the Bandit SC. These shoes solve the sole (no pun intended) problem that I used to have as a Pontas guy: The heelhooking was lackluster. Now, with the Shaman's I feel like I finally have THE PERFECT SHOE. No real gimmicks, just the most solid shoe I have ever worn. I use Shaman's for steep and hard projects/routes, Bandits for techy and thin with heeling, Pontas for all around/warm-up/climbing up to V8, flops for easy approach/post-approach/easy warm-up between burn lounging.

The Ollie flop is great, I will admit that through the years, I have always loved the La Sportiva flop. In fact, I still think it is a better flop than Evolv's, however, I believe it has been discontinued. The Evolv flops are a little too soft for performance, although I have still done up to v6 in them comfortably. I also am a size 14, so I wear the 13's and this could contribute to my thoughts. The Ollie is growing on me.

 Here is a video of Evolv shoes doing what they do best on Tahoe's epic 4 star "Ground Control" V11:


BOTTOM LINE: Evolvs are the best shoes in the world for rock climbing. They excel on granite, the rubber is the best by far: hard enough to grab a penny-edge jib, supple enough to push into a techy smedge or sandstone smear. If you are trying to improve at rockclimbing, even as a beginner, Evolv shoes will take your climbing to the next level.

 Peruse products and order here. Tell them Noah sent you!

 Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Focal Point V10

Here's a new video from Red detailing a sick day of slaughter at sugar 1. This symphony of sending was performed by transplant and local by proxy, Kyle O'Meara. Boom.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.


Saturday, September 10, 2011

Meyers Climbing Festival

Should be fun!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Friday, September 9, 2011

Tahoe Photos

Brian Arnold on Global Warming, V9 @ Eratica

Jesse Bonin on the FA of Milk Money, V12 @ Crater Lake, Tahoe

Crater lake boulder...

Brian Arnold on Smooth Boy Slim, V9 @ Burnside

Me on Sisyphus, V8 @ Sugarpine

Siemay Lee on Skull Fucker, V9 @ Sugarpine

David Outcalt on Alcatraz, V10 @ Prison Hill

All or Nothing, V10 (tentative) @ The Mountain Beavers. photo Brad Perry

Welcome to The Future, V11 (photos Doug Ayers)

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Getting Psyched

Well, the season is just around the corner. My little man, Zun is growing and crying and keeping us up at nights, but that hasn't stopped the climbing from happening. Siemay has even gotten out for a session! So much has gone down, so many new things. Joel Zerr and I went to May Lake in Tuolumne and did some amazing high alpine climbing on quartzite. We also visited the Camouflage Forest and added one of Tahoe's best new V9's: Army of Darkness. Joel is putting together a sick video and I will post it here soon. Yesterday we hit Sugarpine 2 and did some FA's and repeated some amazing new classics: Here's the FA by Kyle O'meara and some other classics with Red and Jimmy Haden: also, here is a sick new one move power problem that I did called the Anniversary, probably a 9 or a 10... we'll need some repeats to tell for sure:
There are new amazing lines going up everywhere. Also, I just heard from Jesse Bonin that he is working on a 55 ft. V12 roof in Tuolumne!!! Life is good, go out and get some! Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Mountain Beavers Video

From Red:

For a change of scenery, I went back to the Mtn. Beavers with Joel and Red to do some new stuff. Joel repeated the sit to Jarrad's amazing "Integrity" problem and Red did the stand. I mostly spectated and toured all morning as baby duty has me fairly sleep-deprived and ragged. I did "sack up" for the first descent of a sick highball proud widow-maker (see video.) Clay and Laura showed up for a minute and did some moderate lines. Clay also tried and looked great on Integrity. Joel also hiked and found a futuristic squeeze line that needs cleaning.

By afternoon, however, it was a different story for me; psych was high and I was ready to do some new things.

The first new line I did I named "varigation" after the multi-colored, spotted wall that it's on just to the left of Integrity. It's a fun v5 move to a cool top-out. It's hard for V5, but it can't be harder, can it?! None of us flashed it, and Red didn't even do it. Anyway, You tell me.

The second new line I did was super rad. "Cat Reflexic" V7. This line opens with double left hand campusing out an overhang buldge with a bad right crimp and a huge left jug. There are no feet. The landing is not good and might necessitate ninja-ing the landing... You have to land like a cat. That being said, I did not feel the actual climbing was that hard, maybe hard V7. It would be good to get consensus on both these lines, as usual.

Both these new lines are in Red's video above. I tried to imagine the grades as they would feel in good conditions, though they both felt 2 grades harder in 80 degree weather on slopers.

I look forward to Jarrad, Jesse and David O returning from their May Lake trip for a report and to open some new lines at this stellar new area.

BTW, here is some beta on the Future Boulder (near the saddle) from our close friends at BETABASE.

Zun is doing well adjusting to home-life, he is nursing well and he actually let us sleep for 4 hours straight this morning!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Friday, August 5, 2011

Pool Service V5 & a new South shore zone...

Here's a sweet new Jesse Bonin video detailing some spring/summer fun on classic Tahoe moderates:

Tahoe Moderates from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.

The first problem showcased is a sweet line I put up a couple seasons ago at Eratica. Called "Pool Service" in honor of Big Dave Nunley, God Dammit. dave found it and got me psyched on it. I called it V5, but it may be harder actually. It's all about sloper control, and it's a great line, indeed.

The other problems are also sweet and should be done if you are here for a while or are looking for sweet lines in the more moderate range.

In other news, there is a sick new area in south lake that Jarrad Wycoff discovered. He and Jesse have been picking plums and doing trail work while I've been up doing new stuff on the North Shore. It's hot everywhere and the skeeters are horrible this year. that being said, everyone is PSYCHED and the crew is in the best summer-shape ever. Fall should be epic. special mention about Jarrad Wycoff: Jarrad done got STRONG! He also just put up a 5 star line at his new area, the Moutain Beavers. This new line, called "Integrity" V7 stand, 9 sit, is the best compression line I have seen since Pine Box, V11 in Yosemite. Great job, Jarrad! ...Animal.

This new area reminds me of Sugarpine area 1. supposedly there are 4 areas though, and I've only seen one. I'll try to get some pics and video ASAP. Jesse, David O, Jarrad and others are going down to Yosemite to May Lake to check out some Matt Arnold goodness this weekend. Jesse and D.O. are gearing up for an extended 10 month road trip, and they are super stoked.

Zun is home now and has much to learn. His ninja training has begun though!

Get out there and destroy!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Zun Lee Kaufman


Welcome little man! Time to work on crimp strength...

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Monday, August 1, 2011


My friend Ethan has done "Sky" V14, This is the image above that is the background for the title of this blog. Here is the video and then some background:

Sky V14 from Ethan Pringle on Vimeo.

...The first year we went to Rocklands, Our friends Cody Roth and his friend Bernie ran me around the newly developed "Austrian Sector" currently known as Klienfontaine. He showed me the uber projects that their crew had been getting close on, namely, "Sky" (As Bernie named it,) and the cracked egg project, an amazing V11 that I opened the following season and named "The Hatchling."

These problems are two of the finest in the world. Period. We originally tried Sky as a straight up massive dyno, and Bernie and I independently felt it was V12 from the stand and we both tried the huge dyno method as depicted on the main intro photo on this blogsite. We got close, but no cigar.

The next season I came back stronger and took Daniel and Paul there right away. The race was on! Those guys did the stand after some effort, Paul after a few days, Daniel did they FA of the stand 3rd go and then the sit a few days later. I kept trying the long dyno method since I felt that would fit me better and since I did not feel strong enough to gymnastically grab the left open hand hold as Ethan does in this video.

After Sky went down, Paul and I happened to be at the Hatchling proj giving it goes. Paul was 4th day on with terrible skin and I somehow snaked the FA from him.
...Like that'll ever happen again! Look at this beautiful line:

Noah Kaufman's The Hatchling (V11). Photo by Zlu Haller /

Congratulations to Ethan for strong work on one of the best problems in the world. I will train diligently to do it when I return to South Africa, however, the sad truth is that Sky may exceed my personal limit.

...But maybe if I try hard enough...

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Sunday, July 31, 2011

Isaac Palatt

I'd like to share a great blog about Black Mountian bouldering and more from a friend I met in Squamish in 2006, Isaac Palatt. I really get psyched reading his blog, and it affords ample material for serious motivation! Check it out: Isaac's Blog

In Tahoe news, We had a fun day in hot temps up at the "Hole in the Ground" area. Joel put up another sweet line on the "Joelder" at the Danger Zone area. About V8ish. I warmed up on "Soul Glow stand and re-opened my split tip. together with warm temps, White Stallion did not go, though I did the moves for Joel's new FLIP video recorder (a sweet gift from Chris Schulte and Jackie Hueftle!)

Visiting climbers Chris Schulte and Jackie Hueftle joined the crew for the day, but sadly, had to deal with gnar temps. Eventually, we had to go to the Saddle. Joel, Chris, Red and David O and I all seshed down on the HUGE dyno. An amazing amazing dyno that I think Sharma did first(?) I have done this throw like 10 times, but have never walked up and done it first try. Today was no exception, however, after 3-4 tries, Joel and I had repeated the massive move. Chris, new to the line, threw himself again and again, tenaciously and finally stuck the jug. We all think it's about V9.

Jackie took some video, so I'll link it when she edits...

Waiting for the baby and the split tip to heal. I think we will be setting up some rad water slacklines at some secret coves up at the lake. I can't wait to walk a big water line up there in this heat!

...Carry on.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Saturday, July 30, 2011

Soul Glow V10

It's not every day that "The best problem in Tahoe" goes up, so I am psyched to report that it recently happened (again.) This Joel Zerr problem is MEGA. The stand at V5 is Proud a hell and 4 stars. The sit, that Joel and I have done, is V10 and is one of the coolest lines I have ever done. It's basically like "White Lines" on steroids. I thought it was a bit easier, perhaps V9 for tall climbers as I was able to skip a hard move. The climb is sustained though, and climbs brilliantly. Here is Red's video of the line:

There is also a left variation that is just as cool and hard, but slightly less aesthetic. It is called "White Stallion" V10 and I will do it tomorrow. It shares the first 2 moves and then busts into a v9 power sequence with an amazing exit!

GOOD JOB JOEL! ...Such a rad contribution.

This climbing is at a rediscovered old area at the Soda Springs exit past Boreal on Hwy 80. Mucho Kudos to Paul Otis for bringing new life to this area and opening some radical lines. Paul has a keen eye and cleaned "White Stallion" V10. Solo and without pads though, Paul left the line a project. Paul was nice enough to share his findings, some of the best rock/lines in Tahoe with the rest of us and we went and repeated/opened some great great problems!

Red (Jon Thompson) took an incredible fall in this video. It's hard to really tell how genuinely sketchy it was. I was spotting him and I may have saved his life, a send for me that was just as cool as the amazing problem from which Red fell (Soul Glow.)

Jimmy Haden put up an incredible V6 called "The Green Machine" that is techy as hell. Dave Ficter and I got bouted in the sun, though we did all the moves easily enough. ...The same thing happened on an unrepeated T.O.M. Fern face V8 just to the Right of Joel's immaculate "Soul Glow."

There is plenty more to do at this newold area. Tai and Fern walked us a 1/2 mile into desolation, bushwhacking, to see an amazing tall and proud line that will likely be v11.

So much good rock!

Siemay is 38 weeks, so our little man is coming any day now. We have a little tent for him so the skeeters and sun don't get him while mom & dad climb.

This will be a whole new boulder problem, one that I look forward too immensely!

...Wish us luck...

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Saturday, July 23, 2011

High Priority & Focal Point

Despite the heat and mosquitos in Tahoe, the scene is bumping. Sugarpine has been seeing a lot of action lately. Here is another video from Jon "Red" Thompson (who I just sewed up in my kitchen... RECKLESS.) It details some Sugar classics High Priority V7 and Focal Point V9 (or 8 and 10 depending on who you ask.) Here it is:

New problems:

I did "Focal Point," formerly the "Beastiality" project. This is the amazing "epic project" compression line in Jon's video above. The line is so rad, hat-tip to Matt, Sandy and Bayes Wilder for the psych to get me up the thing in the heat and sun (This is why I'm hesitant to grade it V10, although it bouted many a suitor and it was my 3rd day on it... Consensus is needed!) Special shout to Red for the vision, the heart, the cleaning and the sharing of this extraordinary line.

Matt Wilder finished off the long-standing "Beast" seam project 2nd try. The Beast weighs in at a tentative V8.

I added the direct to "Fortress" bumping the grade to V7, it's called "superfly."

Charlie Barret added "Sneak Attack" V8 (also in the vid, new beta post hold break.)

I added a problem to the Fortress boulder start on fortress underclings and went left = V7, it's called "Butthurt" to commemorate a summer of misery and pain.

Jimmy Hayden added "First Go" an amazing dihedral dyno (or static as Jimmy did it) at Sugar 2.

Also, there is a sick new area up North! Really cool, kind of a rediscovered old area near Castle Peaks. Kudos to Paul Otis for putting up some of Tahoe's best problems here. Joel Zerr just put up THE BEST Highball V5 IN TAHOE, and is about to double the difficulty and number of moves by adding a totally classic sit start. This Line is AMAZING. Joel, Ficter and myself have done all the moves on this instant classic.

Also worth noting is Vitaly's new lines in South Lake. An amazing new V11 highball across from Blitzen! Sick!

I'm feeling strong now. Just in time for our little baby boy!!! He's due any day now and Siemay and I are Psyched!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Friday, July 8, 2011


We got a new playuh on da scene!

Jon "Red" Thompson is only two years into his climbing career, but he is CRUSHING!

He's a good guy to have on the team and has re-invigorated the scene!!! here's a dope video he made chronicling his recent climbing endeavors, and first V8 ascents... Enjoy!

See you out at the boulders!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Motivation Photos - an addendum to the last post.

A big Crew at South Bliss attacks "Pure Bliss" V9, an Amazing, amazing compression arete. One of the true South Lake Tahoe Classics! After numerous days of effort by many strong local climbers, and with the beta super subtle and elusive, I roped down the thing, sussed it and bagged the FA. Jimmy Haden used the discovered beta later the same day to get the Second Ascent of this tall fun line. If you visit Tahoe to climb, you should put this one on the list.

Right next to "Pure Bliss" is an amazing tall and proud 5.12 (V4) near-solo called "Ignorance is Bliss." D Grif put this line up after top-rope rehersal. Jimmy Haden and I did quick ascents shortly after. We all agreed that it is also a perfect line on bullet stone.

Julie Otis enters the crux of "Pure Bliss."

Joel Zerr makes the first Flash of David Outcalt's fun compression line, "Foxy Lady" V8.

Siemay and lil Bruce going big on an easy line at a cool new Jay Sell spot in Nevada.

Noah Kaufman on a sweet super-hard project at the new spot. Development is underway at this cool area.

Videos to come!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual


It started getting hot in Tahoe.

Ughh. Time to do some routes... Siemay and I will be checking out Mill Creek Cyn in Utah for the first time. I've been hearing great things for years.

Around Tahoe, recent news is mostly around Bliss. Many a new line is going up and there are a few standout lines that are actually amazing 4 star lines! One such line is called "Pure Bliss." I will have a sick video up soon of Jimmy Haden doing the 2nd ascent of this mega line. This line is a Tahoe classic and one of the most aesthetic lines I have seen in a long time. I somehow managed the FA of this bad-boy. Another Sick Line is the "Houdini Roof," a D-griff, Jimmy Haden special. Imagine V8 overhanging crack to dihedral weirdness with recondite beta. I really need to try this thing... It looks amazing.

Video/photos to come.


The assassins from the Bay came to town for a quick day-trip to dispatch:

Paul Barraza: Ground control v11, blitzenator v9, pure bliss v9, ignorance is bliss v4 highball
Lyn Verinsky: ignorance is bliss, getting close on pure bliss and looking strong!
Scott Chandler: blitzenator, pure bliss, ignorance is bliss, GC stand v5
Tim Medina: pure bliss, ignorance is bliss, GC stand


Joel Zerr and I repeated Higher Ground, an amazing Mike Newton (sp?) problem. Originally called v7 by Mike, out-of-towners thought it was more like v10. Joel and I thought about v7 or 8 after a quick few-go-each send sesh. sooooo good and technical!!!

...Newton and David Outcalt did Nubian Gods V9 on the job's peak boulder.

...2 new lines on the Ronin: "Seven Samurai" V9 dyno, "Eight Samurai" V7 to the right (with a sick potential V10/11 sit.) These lines are between year of the rat and secret weapon stand. My FA's. Joel did the "seven Samurai" right after me. Both of us are working the "Ronin" project which is likely V12 or 13 and is SO F__KING COOL. I will likely take Charlie to it this week. Despite Jesse, mine and Joel's attempts for a combined 8 days, the first move still has not gone down (although we are all close.) It feels like the Shosholoza move, only harder. It's almost exactly like the thunderbird v11 jump move on the peabodies in the b-milks. ...only harder. but it goes!! Just need to try a little harder, I guess.

...Red (John Thomas) of the North did Foxy Lady for his first V8 quickly and is super close to "Secret Weapon" V10 after 5 days of effort!!! Go Red! Skipping V9! He is also close to "Pure Bliss," so he may go in order afterall.

Dave Ficter put up a super proud FA at Bliss called the "Panacea" V7. The sit will be a cool 10. The problem could kill you though. Paul Otis and I have started working the overhang near "Pure Bliss." This will be another v11 or 12 and really cool moves, steep with techy feet.

Jesse Bonin strikes again with a send of "Avoid The Wart" V9 (yes, that's the name) at the Beavers. I did this Jarrad Wycoff problem as an FA last season. It is a really cool line. Jesse's beta, as usual, was insane. Joel also did this line.

Look for the Pure Bliss video in the coming days.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

New Joe's Valley Guide

Bouldering in Joe's by Isaac Caldiero is a sweet new guidebook that has been sorely needed. I just bought this guide and it is excellent. Nice photos, accurate descriptions and ratings, and great beta on "how to get there."

I highly reccommend this guidebook! Hat tip to Isaac; nice job, bub!


Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

The Secret Weapon...

It has been an inspiring month!

Siemay is busy incubating now. She is 6 months! Our baby boy spent this last weekend floating up (literally) many Owen's River Gorge 5.10's and 11's. FIUA's (First in utero ascents!) Siemay is feeling well and is still letting me climb a bunch.

Since returning to Tahoe, I have started lifting weights. Sore elbows from Font encouraged me to join a gym and get other forms of workout until my elbows healed.

The result? I now weigh 192! But, with like 2 hours of cardio a day, it's mostly muscle.

This has actually translated surprisingly well to my climbing. I am much stronger now than I have been for maybe 10 years. With this new strength, I have been putting old projects to rest with good friends.

The Tahoe scene is bumping. North shore possies are going up to Doyle and gettin' shit done, and the snow is melting quickly in Tahoe... Today I hiked through snow in flip-flops to send Jesse Bonin's world class "Future Present." Perfect compression. I did the moves on the low start, "Welcome to the Future," and I will be back to send ASAP. Jesse did like 4 laps on the low start V11 or 12 depending on who you ask. That is sick either way. I love this problem even though nobody can agreen on the grade. The stand start, originally done as a jump start by Jesse was called V11. But now, most people (who are taller than Jesse) start standing without an epic jump and the grade has come down a bit. The sit is hard for all and is agreed to be a 3 star V11 or 12.

Here's a video of ICB doing "Welcome to the future." (Problem is at 3:06 mins.)

Winter Visitors from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.

The psych is high around here for sure. In fact, Jesse got a sick new camera and has upped his editing and filming game! Here's his latest:

Early Spring Sending from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.

Congrats to Joel Zerr who completed the 3rd ascent of "Ground Control!" Joel had a sick flash attempt. This problem took me 5 days in less than ideal conditions and I felt solid V11. However, FA's always feel harder, and although neither Zerr nor Savage downrated this problem, I wonder if it will settle in at V10? Doesn't matter much, I guess. Come try and let me know! It's a sick line anyway. The problem that I do in this video is called "Secret Weapon." Jesse did this one last year and it is mega. A total Tahoe classic. Climbs like Hueco! This line is on the Ronin boulder; home to many sick lines of all grades and one undone super project. "Secret Weapon" and "Double Dragon" were both called V11 by Jesse. DD is a more direct exit to SW, but a more powerful move. SW is pumpy with no move really harder than V8. The first day I got on it, I thought it would go down super quick, however, it is PUMPY with many hard consistent moves. Felt like 13d to me.

Anyhow, if you are passing through, you should do this one too!

Soon, many of our dopest spots will be good to go. I have the go ahead to drive up to some amazing boulders in Tahoe on a road unaccessible until now (I finally have the connections!) We have several new areas in the works for this season, and of course, there is Sugar Pine, the truly best spot that we are all looking forward to another season of FA's! Sugar Pine has over 700 problems now on really nice granite. Logistics are tough though... you need a mtn. bike or 4x4 and a full day. many areas with a serious approach.


Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Thursday, March 24, 2011

More Font Media

Here are some more pitures and a video of some of the good times we had this year. 1 month in font is like 1 day at the Louvre. NOT ENOUGH!!!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

The Boulders of Fontainebleau


I guess that's the only way to describe the beautiful forest of France.  With arguably the finest bouldering in the world--if not by aesthetic, surely by sheer fun factor--Font is a must-climb-at spot for the modern climbing aficionado.

Here are some videos as evidence!

Your author on a sweet sweet line:

Instinct from scott chandler on Vimeo.

and Kevin, a super cool local on a classic near the Elephant area...

Irreversible from scott chandler on Vimeo.

and one of the best problems on the planet; Justin Alarcon enjoys the Misericorde:

Misericorde from scott chandler on Vimeo.

I last visited this enchanted bouldering area 9 years ago with my close friend, Forrest King.  We had a blast, but I never returned since there were so many other areas to travel to in the world.  Additionally, I remember daily rain and inclement weather stymied our climbing ambitions.  Despite the obstacles, I managed to do some amazing climbs back then including the archetypal dyno, "Hale Bopp," and "l'aerodynamie."

This trip was a get-back-in-shape for me trip and a scope-it-out trip pour ma femme.  Siemay was 16-18 weeks pregnant during the trip and she managed to climb harder and harder throughout the trip!  We were with many good friends from the Bay, spending most our time with Scott, Monica and Justin who lived down the street from us.  Our close friend, Rich Meredick stayed with us in our gite (small rental home/apt.) in Larchant, a small town Southwest of the city of Font(ainebleau.)

We also hung/climbed with other (North) Americans during our stay: Randy and Beth, Inger and Nora, Tim Doyle and Matt Lucas...  Paul Robinson, Chris Schulte & Jackie Hueftle, Rob Guinn, Justin Wood and Pace, Walker Kearny and Lina and friends...  Also we climbed and partied with Ethan Pringle and one of my closest friends, Matt Wilder. Quite a crew of rad people!

And how could I forget our French friends...  new and old.  David Labrosse joined us in our gite until Siemay left for home, and Miki, Pierre, Ben from Lyon also got psyched to join in the fun!

I also had the opportunity to befriend an amazing family.  The two sons, Gregoire and Kevin and their legendary father, Allaine.  (I am sure I am butchering the spelling of their names.)  The Thibaults are such cool people.  Extremely motivated and friendly and crazy and hilarious, with super cute girlfriends to boot!  Kevin spots me in the first video above and he climbs a fabulous problem called "irreversible" in the next video.  Thanks to Scott Chandler for awesome videos and psyche.

I can honestly say that I had so much fun hanging out and climbing with these two brothers and their father that even when we were rained out, we were all psyched, just being together under a boulder roof in the pouring rain sharing good times.  ...Verily, life is about who we meet along the way!

Font is amazing.  The weather can suck, and the condoms and feces behind some of the blocs of Bas Cuvier are revolting.  The thing is, the climbing is unbelievable.  Imagine climbing the most perfect problems with inspiring movement and crazy holds.  Climbing the impossible happens frequently.  The holds are ergo and comfy, you probably will not bleed in Font (unlike Hueco, Buttermilks, etc.)  Also, like Horse Pens, the volume is staggering.  ...Over 20,000 problems in the forest currently spread out over 150 different areas! Every style of climbing is represented in a fairly even distribution, but the slopers, ahhh the slopers!!!  Potential as well, there will be twice as many problems some day and every year classics are discovered and opened.

Except for a really cool dyno called "Rainbow Rocket" (I said cool dyno, not cool name) I never went back to a problem more than one day, and no, I did not do the 8a dyno...

Some Notable sends/moments:

Rich Meredick - "Duroxamanie"
Matt Wilder - "Megalithe" Flash
Tim Doyle - "Vague Patatras"
Monica Andrada - "La Marie Rose"
Nora - "Le Egoiste"
Justin Alarcon - "Misericorde," "La Mandarin," "Super Prestat"
Scott Chandler - "Irreversible," "Opium," "La Gaulle," "Cent Pof" "Megawatt" "Noir Desire" etc... 
Inger - "L'Etrave" Flash
Me - "Instinct"
Siemay - Many hard climbs with Bruce on board!
Randy and Beth - Volume and bunk toe sending!  Randy was SUPER close on several 8a-8b sick hard climbs and Beth was still able to destroy despite a foot injury.  Proud.
David Labrosse - "Rataplat"
Paul Robinson - everything he touched.
Nalle - see Paul's and "Tigre et Dragon"
Jackie - "Apartenance"
Chris - "Rainbow Rocket" and sick close to the "Big Island" 8c badness
Kevin - "synapse" "Partage" (first go after weighted moves/beta)
Ughhh...  So many more

Rockland's aesthetics, but the movement and rock quality, accessibility and fun factor make for the ultimate area.

Did I mention the Bread, the wine, and the daily scrumptious pastries???

Basically, you have to go.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Thursday, January 20, 2011

Roast Beef Toilet Bowl

Here is my friend Tom Ellis doing the FA of "Roast Beef Toilet Bowl" a hard roof in New Mexico:

Roast beef toilet bowl from thomas ellis on Vimeo.

...I hurt my wrist in Roy this fall (not climbing actually...  Spotting!)  I have not been climbing so I can heal it for our trip to Font.  We will be going to France for a month in Feb/March.

Are you jealous?  Why not plan a trip somewhere?

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Roy: Another Sojourn

Ok.  Had to go back.  We found a huge new zone that will need a bunch of work.  Took Brian Arnold, Brian Capps and Jason Kehl again.  Did some new stuff.  Here are pics and video.  Check it.

"Icarus" V7 highball and projects/classics (bits and pieces)

"Paver Tom" V8 at Jumbles

"Carpet Bombers" V10 at the World Wide Wall

here are some photos to further encourage you:

Scarpa Team member Brian Arnold on an amazing project, still undone.  Brian was super close.  The first move is the crux and then it is about V7 to finish.  Maybe a V11.
 Brian Capps gets the third ascent of "Carpet Bombers" V10 highball.  This is bandering at it's absolute finest. FA Tom Ellis (and John Kuphal)
Brian Capps on the rad dynamic crux move of the sublime "Icarus" V7.  What a line.
Capps on the project.  We were all shut down, but close.  There is an amazing V9 to the right that Tom Ellis put up.  Arnold and I tried it in the sun one day and were unable to do it.

Enjoy the season, climbers!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual