Saturday, July 30, 2011

Soul Glow V10

It's not every day that "The best problem in Tahoe" goes up, so I am psyched to report that it recently happened (again.) This Joel Zerr problem is MEGA. The stand at V5 is Proud a hell and 4 stars. The sit, that Joel and I have done, is V10 and is one of the coolest lines I have ever done. It's basically like "White Lines" on steroids. I thought it was a bit easier, perhaps V9 for tall climbers as I was able to skip a hard move. The climb is sustained though, and climbs brilliantly. Here is Red's video of the line:

There is also a left variation that is just as cool and hard, but slightly less aesthetic. It is called "White Stallion" V10 and I will do it tomorrow. It shares the first 2 moves and then busts into a v9 power sequence with an amazing exit!

GOOD JOB JOEL! ...Such a rad contribution.

This climbing is at a rediscovered old area at the Soda Springs exit past Boreal on Hwy 80. Mucho Kudos to Paul Otis for bringing new life to this area and opening some radical lines. Paul has a keen eye and cleaned "White Stallion" V10. Solo and without pads though, Paul left the line a project. Paul was nice enough to share his findings, some of the best rock/lines in Tahoe with the rest of us and we went and repeated/opened some great great problems!

Red (Jon Thompson) took an incredible fall in this video. It's hard to really tell how genuinely sketchy it was. I was spotting him and I may have saved his life, a send for me that was just as cool as the amazing problem from which Red fell (Soul Glow.)

Jimmy Haden put up an incredible V6 called "The Green Machine" that is techy as hell. Dave Ficter and I got bouted in the sun, though we did all the moves easily enough. ...The same thing happened on an unrepeated T.O.M. Fern face V8 just to the Right of Joel's immaculate "Soul Glow."

There is plenty more to do at this newold area. Tai and Fern walked us a 1/2 mile into desolation, bushwhacking, to see an amazing tall and proud line that will likely be v11.

So much good rock!

Siemay is 38 weeks, so our little man is coming any day now. We have a little tent for him so the skeeters and sun don't get him while mom & dad climb.

This will be a whole new boulder problem, one that I look forward too immensely!

...Wish us luck...

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

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