Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Sierra Buttes - Paul Bunyan, V13 FA

My good friends Joel & Kyle spent a good bit of time working an amazing new line out at the Buttes called Paul Bunyan. They teamed up for the same day FA/SA after more than a week of work each.

I first worked this line with Joel several years ago, and although I could do all the moves, it is all V8-10 climbing with no rest and it is a long ass problem. The end problem is a stand start V10 that is really aggressive. Add a long V10 roof to the beginning, and you get a face full of hard.

This is a video that Joel edited of the Buttes and of the FA and several other mega classics up there. If you haven't been, you need to go. There will be a section in the guide devoted to the Buttes.

Check it:

Congrats to Joel on an Epic world class V13 First Ascent, and to Kyle O for a same day Second!

Kudos, Bawse!

PS. Jesse Bonin did a lower sit start on the right arĂȘte at V12, but if you added this lower sit, I bet Paul Bunyan would easily clock in at V14. Yes, it's classic (ie. not a star destroyer.) Anyone?

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Tuesday, January 1, 2013

My Woody


Well, now that Tahoe is under water, and all the skiers/boarders are all psyched, it's time for us climbers to go on road trips to the desert and... TIME TO TRAIN!

This is the time of the year when we get the strongest, by far. Campusing, working problems, finger work, peter-pans, resistance... Taking it back to the boulders is one of the best feelings around if you do it right and don't get injured. Which is easy to do, by the way. Especially for us old codgers. Warming up and stretching are absolutely critical to getting stronger and having fun. Anatomy breaks when it is not lubricated and prepared properly.

Here is my wall; the third I've built:

Needless to say, I am super psyched on this wall. It's like my garden. Sometimes I warm up on it for projects outdoors. There is a 5.10 jug haul warm up around the perimeter. As you can see, there is a system/campus stair-case on the right side. Although I built most of it alone, my close friend Brian Arnold deserves a major hat tip for helping slog lumbar, design brainstorming and helping with initial framing. As one of my carpenter buddies told me "Damn, son! You overbuilt the $#!+ out of this thing!"


When I was living in Japan, I learned this handy problem recording method:

I drew this out by hand over a couple of 1 hour sessions. Obviously, I don't change the holds. Ever. That being said, I do add holds where I can, and the movement possibilities are close to endless. It is truly a kinesthetic library... I position each hold with great care.

We have over 100 sweet problems recorded (in a binder with xerox copies in plastic sheaths. Also with markers, a laser pointer, etc. it's legit.) We don't record the warm ups or the crappy/tweaky problems normally. We name and grade the lines and give them quality stars...

Siemay gripping tightly on my woody...

But, here's the best part by far: about 50% of the wall is REAL ROCK HOLDS.

I have spent years and years collecting holds of all kinds. I love screw-ons the most, and have made real rock screw-ons from 4-star holds that I have collected from all over the world. (4-star = flat back (this is the only star you can "create,") ergonomic shape, unique shape generally holdable in a only a few exact best ways, and high rock quality (We have a couple volcanics from the Happy's that have exploded on us! Fun and exciting, but not what ya want.))

I have holds from Yosemite, Joe's, Moab, The Dirty South, St. George, Japan, Bishop, Tahoe, Hueco, Flagstaff, Mallorca, Rocklands, Canada, Mexico (Portrero...). Seriously! ...I tried to get a few from Font, but they were no good and broke quickly.

Of course there are heaters (This is my garage,) bright energy saving flood lights and a killer sound system hooked up to our iThings.

One final consideration: we removed the old garage door with the center bar and bought a side reeling silent door opener. It's a really nice insulated garage door.

Well there you have it! Together with a strong will, some close friends and some dedication, those double digit projects will go down a whole lot easier.

Try Hard, Climbers!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard.

Noah as usual.