Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Sierra Buttes - Paul Bunyan, V13 FA

My good friends Joel & Kyle spent a good bit of time working an amazing new line out at the Buttes called Paul Bunyan. They teamed up for the same day FA/SA after more than a week of work each.

I first worked this line with Joel several years ago, and although I could do all the moves, it is all V8-10 climbing with no rest and it is a long ass problem. The end problem is a stand start V10 that is really aggressive. Add a long V10 roof to the beginning, and you get a face full of hard.

This is a video that Joel edited of the Buttes and of the FA and several other mega classics up there. If you haven't been, you need to go. There will be a section in the guide devoted to the Buttes.

Check it:

Congrats to Joel on an Epic world class V13 First Ascent, and to Kyle O for a same day Second!

Kudos, Bawse!

PS. Jesse Bonin did a lower sit start on the right arĂȘte at V12, but if you added this lower sit, I bet Paul Bunyan would easily clock in at V14. Yes, it's classic (ie. not a star destroyer.) Anyone?

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

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