Sunday, July 31, 2011

Isaac Palatt

I'd like to share a great blog about Black Mountian bouldering and more from a friend I met in Squamish in 2006, Isaac Palatt. I really get psyched reading his blog, and it affords ample material for serious motivation! Check it out: Isaac's Blog

In Tahoe news, We had a fun day in hot temps up at the "Hole in the Ground" area. Joel put up another sweet line on the "Joelder" at the Danger Zone area. About V8ish. I warmed up on "Soul Glow stand and re-opened my split tip. together with warm temps, White Stallion did not go, though I did the moves for Joel's new FLIP video recorder (a sweet gift from Chris Schulte and Jackie Hueftle!)

Visiting climbers Chris Schulte and Jackie Hueftle joined the crew for the day, but sadly, had to deal with gnar temps. Eventually, we had to go to the Saddle. Joel, Chris, Red and David O and I all seshed down on the HUGE dyno. An amazing amazing dyno that I think Sharma did first(?) I have done this throw like 10 times, but have never walked up and done it first try. Today was no exception, however, after 3-4 tries, Joel and I had repeated the massive move. Chris, new to the line, threw himself again and again, tenaciously and finally stuck the jug. We all think it's about V9.

Jackie took some video, so I'll link it when she edits...

Waiting for the baby and the split tip to heal. I think we will be setting up some rad water slacklines at some secret coves up at the lake. I can't wait to walk a big water line up there in this heat!

...Carry on.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Saturday, July 30, 2011

Soul Glow V10

It's not every day that "The best problem in Tahoe" goes up, so I am psyched to report that it recently happened (again.) This Joel Zerr problem is MEGA. The stand at V5 is Proud a hell and 4 stars. The sit, that Joel and I have done, is V10 and is one of the coolest lines I have ever done. It's basically like "White Lines" on steroids. I thought it was a bit easier, perhaps V9 for tall climbers as I was able to skip a hard move. The climb is sustained though, and climbs brilliantly. Here is Red's video of the line:

There is also a left variation that is just as cool and hard, but slightly less aesthetic. It is called "White Stallion" V10 and I will do it tomorrow. It shares the first 2 moves and then busts into a v9 power sequence with an amazing exit!

GOOD JOB JOEL! ...Such a rad contribution.

This climbing is at a rediscovered old area at the Soda Springs exit past Boreal on Hwy 80. Mucho Kudos to Paul Otis for bringing new life to this area and opening some radical lines. Paul has a keen eye and cleaned "White Stallion" V10. Solo and without pads though, Paul left the line a project. Paul was nice enough to share his findings, some of the best rock/lines in Tahoe with the rest of us and we went and repeated/opened some great great problems!

Red (Jon Thompson) took an incredible fall in this video. It's hard to really tell how genuinely sketchy it was. I was spotting him and I may have saved his life, a send for me that was just as cool as the amazing problem from which Red fell (Soul Glow.)

Jimmy Haden put up an incredible V6 called "The Green Machine" that is techy as hell. Dave Ficter and I got bouted in the sun, though we did all the moves easily enough. ...The same thing happened on an unrepeated T.O.M. Fern face V8 just to the Right of Joel's immaculate "Soul Glow."

There is plenty more to do at this newold area. Tai and Fern walked us a 1/2 mile into desolation, bushwhacking, to see an amazing tall and proud line that will likely be v11.

So much good rock!

Siemay is 38 weeks, so our little man is coming any day now. We have a little tent for him so the skeeters and sun don't get him while mom & dad climb.

This will be a whole new boulder problem, one that I look forward too immensely!

...Wish us luck...

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Saturday, July 23, 2011

High Priority & Focal Point

Despite the heat and mosquitos in Tahoe, the scene is bumping. Sugarpine has been seeing a lot of action lately. Here is another video from Jon "Red" Thompson (who I just sewed up in my kitchen... RECKLESS.) It details some Sugar classics High Priority V7 and Focal Point V9 (or 8 and 10 depending on who you ask.) Here it is:

New problems:

I did "Focal Point," formerly the "Beastiality" project. This is the amazing "epic project" compression line in Jon's video above. The line is so rad, hat-tip to Matt, Sandy and Bayes Wilder for the psych to get me up the thing in the heat and sun (This is why I'm hesitant to grade it V10, although it bouted many a suitor and it was my 3rd day on it... Consensus is needed!) Special shout to Red for the vision, the heart, the cleaning and the sharing of this extraordinary line.

Matt Wilder finished off the long-standing "Beast" seam project 2nd try. The Beast weighs in at a tentative V8.

I added the direct to "Fortress" bumping the grade to V7, it's called "superfly."

Charlie Barret added "Sneak Attack" V8 (also in the vid, new beta post hold break.)

I added a problem to the Fortress boulder start on fortress underclings and went left = V7, it's called "Butthurt" to commemorate a summer of misery and pain.

Jimmy Hayden added "First Go" an amazing dihedral dyno (or static as Jimmy did it) at Sugar 2.

Also, there is a sick new area up North! Really cool, kind of a rediscovered old area near Castle Peaks. Kudos to Paul Otis for putting up some of Tahoe's best problems here. Joel Zerr just put up THE BEST Highball V5 IN TAHOE, and is about to double the difficulty and number of moves by adding a totally classic sit start. This Line is AMAZING. Joel, Ficter and myself have done all the moves on this instant classic.

Also worth noting is Vitaly's new lines in South Lake. An amazing new V11 highball across from Blitzen! Sick!

I'm feeling strong now. Just in time for our little baby boy!!! He's due any day now and Siemay and I are Psyched!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Friday, July 8, 2011


We got a new playuh on da scene!

Jon "Red" Thompson is only two years into his climbing career, but he is CRUSHING!

He's a good guy to have on the team and has re-invigorated the scene!!! here's a dope video he made chronicling his recent climbing endeavors, and first V8 ascents... Enjoy!

See you out at the boulders!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual