Monday, August 20, 2012

Jesse sends The Arch, V13

Congratulations to Jesse Bonin for a sick season in Rocklands this summer and a send of the elusive Fred Nicole line, "The Arch."




Matt Wilder and I saw this line a few years back and were intrigued at the difficulty and coolness of the line, although it did appear Dabby for a bigger climber.





Jesse is the best project climber I have ever met. Check out his words and some epic pics of this sick, sick line. Nice one, Jesse!

http://www.jessebonin.blogspot.com/

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

The Gerbler! Tahoe's best roof?

Here is an amazing new line at Lost In Space at Emerald Bay:



Video of Noah Napier's ascent:



The man with the vision for the line, David Outcalt, cleaned and climbed the beauty for a proud First Ascent. He named this stellar line "The Gerbler."

It may be V8 when it's not 80 degrees up there, but either way, it is an instant classic and must do in the basin. I found the first move to be difficult, but the beta is amazing and subtle.

In other Lost In Space news, there have been several new FA's: I put up "Neighbor" V9 today right next to "Moon Dog," and I also did a cool new slopey compression V8 called "Place Holder." This cool new line has a righteous sit start that adds 2-3 grades and remains a stout proj until another sesh or better weather.

I also added a very hard short arĂȘte called "Close Encounters," but I am unsure of the grade. It's in the V7-10 range and has thwarted all other attempts so far.

This area is special indeed.

BETA: To get to Lost in Space, take the trail as for Eagle Lake in Emerald Bay. Walk 15 minutes up the trail, crossing a bridge, until you see slabs. Walk another 2-3 minutes looking for a big boulder across the stream. This is the first boulder of the area and the remaining boulders abound in the forest and talus above.

As I have been telling you, Dave Hatchett is mapping, creating and crafting a world-class guide to the immense Tahoe Basin. Lost In Space, although still under development, will be in the guide.

Please email climb420.geo@yahoo.com if you do any new First Ascents in Tahoe that you want included in the guide.

Yeah, it's hot... But we are training for fall and still crushing!

Oh yeah, Ty Landman made a visit and got a tour of some spots on one of the hottest days of the year. He and one of his buddies, Will, both fell off of the sunny, greasy TOP of Ground Control in 80 degree heat. It was amazing seeing them do the crux of this hard V11 in short time and in such horrible conditions!

Get Psyched!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Location:Emerald Bay