For a change of scenery, I went back to the Mtn. Beavers with Joel and Red to do some new stuff. Joel repeated the sit to Jarrad's amazing "Integrity" problem and Red did the stand. I mostly spectated and toured all morning as baby duty has me fairly sleep-deprived and ragged. I did "sack up" for the first descent of a sick highball proud widow-maker (see video.) Clay and Laura showed up for a minute and did some moderate lines. Clay also tried and looked great on Integrity. Joel also hiked and found a futuristic squeeze line that needs cleaning.
By afternoon, however, it was a different story for me; psych was high and I was ready to do some new things.
The first new line I did I named "varigation" after the multi-colored, spotted wall that it's on just to the left of Integrity. It's a fun v5 move to a cool top-out. It's hard for V5, but it can't be harder, can it?! None of us flashed it, and Red didn't even do it. Anyway, You tell me.
The second new line I did was super rad. "Cat Reflexic" V7. This line opens with double left hand campusing out an overhang buldge with a bad right crimp and a huge left jug. There are no feet. The landing is not good and might necessitate ninja-ing the landing... You have to land like a cat. That being said, I did not feel the actual climbing was that hard, maybe hard V7. It would be good to get consensus on both these lines, as usual.
Both these new lines are in Red's video above. I tried to imagine the grades as they would feel in good conditions, though they both felt 2 grades harder in 80 degree weather on slopers.
I look forward to Jarrad, Jesse and David O returning from their May Lake trip for a report and to open some new lines at this stellar new area.
BTW, here is some beta on the Future Boulder (near the saddle) from our close friends at BETABASE.
Zun is doing well adjusting to home-life, he is nursing well and he actually let us sleep for 4 hours straight this morning!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
11-6-17: Lower Yosemite Falls
1 week ago