Tuesday, May 3, 2011

The Secret Weapon...

It has been an inspiring month!

Siemay is busy incubating now. She is 6 months! Our baby boy spent this last weekend floating up (literally) many Owen's River Gorge 5.10's and 11's. FIUA's (First in utero ascents!) Siemay is feeling well and is still letting me climb a bunch.

Since returning to Tahoe, I have started lifting weights. Sore elbows from Font encouraged me to join a gym and get other forms of workout until my elbows healed.

The result? I now weigh 192! But, with like 2 hours of cardio a day, it's mostly muscle.

This has actually translated surprisingly well to my climbing. I am much stronger now than I have been for maybe 10 years. With this new strength, I have been putting old projects to rest with good friends.

The Tahoe scene is bumping. North shore possies are going up to Doyle and gettin' shit done, and the snow is melting quickly in Tahoe... Today I hiked through snow in flip-flops to send Jesse Bonin's world class "Future Present." Perfect compression. I did the moves on the low start, "Welcome to the Future," and I will be back to send ASAP. Jesse did like 4 laps on the low start V11 or 12 depending on who you ask. That is sick either way. I love this problem even though nobody can agreen on the grade. The stand start, originally done as a jump start by Jesse was called V11. But now, most people (who are taller than Jesse) start standing without an epic jump and the grade has come down a bit. The sit is hard for all and is agreed to be a 3 star V11 or 12.

Here's a video of ICB doing "Welcome to the future." (Problem is at 3:06 mins.)

Winter Visitors from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.

The psych is high around here for sure. In fact, Jesse got a sick new camera and has upped his editing and filming game! Here's his latest:

Early Spring Sending from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.

Congrats to Joel Zerr who completed the 3rd ascent of "Ground Control!" Joel had a sick flash attempt. This problem took me 5 days in less than ideal conditions and I felt solid V11. However, FA's always feel harder, and although neither Zerr nor Savage downrated this problem, I wonder if it will settle in at V10? Doesn't matter much, I guess. Come try and let me know! It's a sick line anyway. The problem that I do in this video is called "Secret Weapon." Jesse did this one last year and it is mega. A total Tahoe classic. Climbs like Hueco! This line is on the Ronin boulder; home to many sick lines of all grades and one undone super project. "Secret Weapon" and "Double Dragon" were both called V11 by Jesse. DD is a more direct exit to SW, but a more powerful move. SW is pumpy with no move really harder than V8. The first day I got on it, I thought it would go down super quick, however, it is PUMPY with many hard consistent moves. Felt like 13d to me.

Anyhow, if you are passing through, you should do this one too!

Soon, many of our dopest spots will be good to go. I have the go ahead to drive up to some amazing boulders in Tahoe on a road unaccessible until now (I finally have the connections!) We have several new areas in the works for this season, and of course, there is Sugar Pine, the truly best spot that we are all looking forward to another season of FA's! Sugar Pine has over 700 problems now on really nice granite. Logistics are tough though... you need a mtn. bike or 4x4 and a full day. many areas with a serious approach.


Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual


  1. Wooohoo!!! you just got me psyched!

  2. Nice send on Secret Weapon! Where is this boulder located? I might be in the Tahoe area this summer and would love to try it.



  3. @ BLOCHEAD: Ronin is down hwy 89/4 south of markleeville, CA; a few miles past monitor pass. it is on the East side of the road (left side if coming from Tahoe) 30 seconds from the road, up a small gully about 500 ft b4 the true value crag. this is the obvious chossy looking cliff with sport climbs 20 seconds from the road at a bridge. the boulder is fairly easy to find for the astute boulder hunter and novice alike. look for 3 big pull-outs above the river on the right side of the rd. (west side.) ...a guide is in the works.


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