Wednesday, June 15, 2011


It started getting hot in Tahoe.

Ughh. Time to do some routes... Siemay and I will be checking out Mill Creek Cyn in Utah for the first time. I've been hearing great things for years.

Around Tahoe, recent news is mostly around Bliss. Many a new line is going up and there are a few standout lines that are actually amazing 4 star lines! One such line is called "Pure Bliss." I will have a sick video up soon of Jimmy Haden doing the 2nd ascent of this mega line. This line is a Tahoe classic and one of the most aesthetic lines I have seen in a long time. I somehow managed the FA of this bad-boy. Another Sick Line is the "Houdini Roof," a D-griff, Jimmy Haden special. Imagine V8 overhanging crack to dihedral weirdness with recondite beta. I really need to try this thing... It looks amazing.

Video/photos to come.


The assassins from the Bay came to town for a quick day-trip to dispatch:

Paul Barraza: Ground control v11, blitzenator v9, pure bliss v9, ignorance is bliss v4 highball
Lyn Verinsky: ignorance is bliss, getting close on pure bliss and looking strong!
Scott Chandler: blitzenator, pure bliss, ignorance is bliss, GC stand v5
Tim Medina: pure bliss, ignorance is bliss, GC stand


Joel Zerr and I repeated Higher Ground, an amazing Mike Newton (sp?) problem. Originally called v7 by Mike, out-of-towners thought it was more like v10. Joel and I thought about v7 or 8 after a quick few-go-each send sesh. sooooo good and technical!!!

...Newton and David Outcalt did Nubian Gods V9 on the job's peak boulder.

...2 new lines on the Ronin: "Seven Samurai" V9 dyno, "Eight Samurai" V7 to the right (with a sick potential V10/11 sit.) These lines are between year of the rat and secret weapon stand. My FA's. Joel did the "seven Samurai" right after me. Both of us are working the "Ronin" project which is likely V12 or 13 and is SO F__KING COOL. I will likely take Charlie to it this week. Despite Jesse, mine and Joel's attempts for a combined 8 days, the first move still has not gone down (although we are all close.) It feels like the Shosholoza move, only harder. It's almost exactly like the thunderbird v11 jump move on the peabodies in the b-milks. ...only harder. but it goes!! Just need to try a little harder, I guess.

...Red (John Thomas) of the North did Foxy Lady for his first V8 quickly and is super close to "Secret Weapon" V10 after 5 days of effort!!! Go Red! Skipping V9! He is also close to "Pure Bliss," so he may go in order afterall.

Dave Ficter put up a super proud FA at Bliss called the "Panacea" V7. The sit will be a cool 10. The problem could kill you though. Paul Otis and I have started working the overhang near "Pure Bliss." This will be another v11 or 12 and really cool moves, steep with techy feet.

Jesse Bonin strikes again with a send of "Avoid The Wart" V9 (yes, that's the name) at the Beavers. I did this Jarrad Wycoff problem as an FA last season. It is a really cool line. Jesse's beta, as usual, was insane. Joel also did this line.

Look for the Pure Bliss video in the coming days.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

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