Match ham-hock for a second to stabilize., go for the open hand finger bucket! v3 topout for desert.
I sent "Gription" V9 in about an hour after warming up. This line is beautiful and as a hard moderate is a true gem of the area. I worked on this with Anthony from Sonora, CA. He and his wife, Jessica, joined us for several sessions. Anthony topped out "Gription" in the rain the next day!
We finished off Day 1 by sending "Spectro" V7. This line looks exactly like a mini "spectre" a classic, Buttermilk testpiece. It was harder for me than Gription or Bazooka Tooth.
Day 2 I tried "Show of Hands" V11 and made good progress, but was unnmotivated working on it all alone. and stopped trying it after about 20 minutes. The rest of day 2 and 3 were doing tons of easy to hard classics , so much fun movement. We didn't climb much after this since we heard that a friend had broken a hold secondary to the rain.
So, we went mountain biking! This was a real eye-opener. As much fun as surfing, climbing and snowboarding.
Another highlight was the amazing BBQ place we found. UNREAL! Troy's BBQ, if you're venturing to/through St. George, is AMAZING! Take Bluff exit off I-15, go 3ish blocks, rith on 700 S. it's on your right. DO NOT MISS THIS BBQ. I have had BBQ all over the country: Miami, Chicago, TX (all over), NM, AZ, etc.etc. THIS IS THE BEST! (And you can sign the wall. FUN!) All in all, a great trip despite the weather.
During rainy days, we played "Settlers of Catan" with old firends from St. George (Isaac, Lauren, Jorge, Seth) before they went up to the trade show. They are developing some incredible new areas down in and around St. George. Thanks for the hospitality, guys!!! Here is Seth's website about St. George climbing (with rad pics/video.) http://desertratpro.com/
Also, Jesse Bonin has some new vid of super local Carson crag: Prison Hill: http://www.betabase.blogspot.com/
Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.