Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Maple Canyon & Captain Bullet

Wow.  Maple Canyon is the BOMB.  I love it.  We had such a rad 3 week trip!!!  Did so many amazing lines, mostly volume in the 5.12 range to get endurance up.  The best line by far was "Daddy" at the Cragganmore.  This amazing and very long 12d went down 3rd go, but you can really only give it one serious effort a day.  On the send, I actually broke the final jug and took a big fall!  I was standing up over the final roof, and I was not pumped.  The chains were at my face.  It was the first unintentional victory whip that I have ever taken!  Poor Siemay got yarded to the first bolt!  Fun!

Here is a rad 13b that I sent called "Captain Bullet."  This climb has been on my to do list since my draws were stolen off of it in 2002.  I left Maple Canyon disgusted at that time.

We met up with many friends, old and new.  Siemay led many 5.12's clean and took her first real lead falls.  I got sick of hearing "I'm not pumped at all!"  The Crusher.  Jeff Sutton fought valiantly on "Daddy" and is coming back to put it to rest in August.  Rich Meredick sent his full rope length tech-nightmare "The Wizard of Ozone" at the Box on lead despite a severe shoulder injury that had him sidelined for months.  David Labrosse also crushed, sending all of the hardest routes of his life.  His partner in crime, Pierre, got stitched up by me on a picnic table after a bad fall, but continued to climb despite a potential fractured patella!  Lastly, Tom Herbert and fam crushed as they always do...  Standout sends were from the Herbert children who dispatched their multi-day projects!  Little animals!

We had such an amazing time that we are going back for the last week in August before Burning Man.

More photos/stories to come!

Life is amazing!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual


  1. Thank God you had a spot when you were at the anchors!

  2. yeah, what was that all about?

  3. I actually hit the ground twice on redpoint burns, they were just low impact brushes thanks to a sick belay by David Labrosse, but ground falls nonetheless. Hence the crash pad! ...More of a confidence thing, I guess. The way the enbankment comes up, this thing is mostly a new-school boulder problem, and I am sure it has been bouldered (I considered it.)


What are you thinking?