Sweden Baby and more
8 years ago
Thursday, June 16, 2011
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Motivation Photos - an addendum to the last post.
A big Crew at South Bliss attacks "Pure Bliss" V9, an Amazing, amazing compression arete. One of the true South Lake Tahoe Classics! After numerous days of effort by many strong local climbers, and with the beta super subtle and elusive, I roped down the thing, sussed it and bagged the FA. Jimmy Haden used the discovered beta later the same day to get the Second Ascent of this tall fun line. If you visit Tahoe to climb, you should put this one on the list.
Right next to "Pure Bliss" is an amazing tall and proud 5.12 (V4) near-solo called "Ignorance is Bliss." D Grif put this line up after top-rope rehersal. Jimmy Haden and I did quick ascents shortly after. We all agreed that it is also a perfect line on bullet stone.
Julie Otis enters the crux of "Pure Bliss."
Joel Zerr makes the first Flash of David Outcalt's fun compression line, "Foxy Lady" V8.
Siemay and lil Bruce going big on an easy line at a cool new Jay Sell spot in Nevada.
Noah Kaufman on a sweet super-hard project at the new spot. Development is underway at this cool area.
Videos to come!
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
PURE BLISS
It started getting hot in Tahoe.
Ughh. Time to do some routes... Siemay and I will be checking out Mill Creek Cyn in Utah for the first time. I've been hearing great things for years.
Around Tahoe, recent news is mostly around Bliss. Many a new line is going up and there are a few standout lines that are actually amazing 4 star lines! One such line is called "Pure Bliss." I will have a sick video up soon of Jimmy Haden doing the 2nd ascent of this mega line. This line is a Tahoe classic and one of the most aesthetic lines I have seen in a long time. I somehow managed the FA of this bad-boy. Another Sick Line is the "Houdini Roof," a D-griff, Jimmy Haden special. Imagine V8 overhanging crack to dihedral weirdness with recondite beta. I really need to try this thing... It looks amazing.
Video/photos to come.
QUICK HITS:
The assassins from the Bay came to town for a quick day-trip to dispatch:
Paul Barraza: Ground control v11, blitzenator v9, pure bliss v9, ignorance is bliss v4 highball
Lyn Verinsky: ignorance is bliss, getting close on pure bliss and looking strong!
Scott Chandler: blitzenator, pure bliss, ignorance is bliss, GC stand v5
Tim Medina: pure bliss, ignorance is bliss, GC stand
wow.
Joel Zerr and I repeated Higher Ground, an amazing Mike Newton (sp?) problem. Originally called v7 by Mike, out-of-towners thought it was more like v10. Joel and I thought about v7 or 8 after a quick few-go-each send sesh. sooooo good and technical!!!
...Newton and David Outcalt did Nubian Gods V9 on the job's peak boulder.
...2 new lines on the Ronin: "Seven Samurai" V9 dyno, "Eight Samurai" V7 to the right (with a sick potential V10/11 sit.) These lines are between year of the rat and secret weapon stand. My FA's. Joel did the "seven Samurai" right after me. Both of us are working the "Ronin" project which is likely V12 or 13 and is SO F__KING COOL. I will likely take Charlie to it this week. Despite Jesse, mine and Joel's attempts for a combined 8 days, the first move still has not gone down (although we are all close.) It feels like the Shosholoza move, only harder. It's almost exactly like the thunderbird v11 jump move on the peabodies in the b-milks. ...only harder. but it goes!! Just need to try a little harder, I guess.
...Red (John Thomas) of the North did Foxy Lady for his first V8 quickly and is super close to "Secret Weapon" V10 after 5 days of effort!!! Go Red! Skipping V9! He is also close to "Pure Bliss," so he may go in order afterall.
Dave Ficter put up a super proud FA at Bliss called the "Panacea" V7. The sit will be a cool 10. The problem could kill you though. Paul Otis and I have started working the overhang near "Pure Bliss." This will be another v11 or 12 and really cool moves, steep with techy feet.
Jesse Bonin strikes again with a send of "Avoid The Wart" V9 (yes, that's the name) at the Beavers. I did this Jarrad Wycoff problem as an FA last season. It is a really cool line. Jesse's beta, as usual, was insane. Joel also did this line.
Look for the Pure Bliss video in the coming days.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
Ughh. Time to do some routes... Siemay and I will be checking out Mill Creek Cyn in Utah for the first time. I've been hearing great things for years.
Around Tahoe, recent news is mostly around Bliss. Many a new line is going up and there are a few standout lines that are actually amazing 4 star lines! One such line is called "Pure Bliss." I will have a sick video up soon of Jimmy Haden doing the 2nd ascent of this mega line. This line is a Tahoe classic and one of the most aesthetic lines I have seen in a long time. I somehow managed the FA of this bad-boy. Another Sick Line is the "Houdini Roof," a D-griff, Jimmy Haden special. Imagine V8 overhanging crack to dihedral weirdness with recondite beta. I really need to try this thing... It looks amazing.
Video/photos to come.
QUICK HITS:
The assassins from the Bay came to town for a quick day-trip to dispatch:
Paul Barraza: Ground control v11, blitzenator v9, pure bliss v9, ignorance is bliss v4 highball
Lyn Verinsky: ignorance is bliss, getting close on pure bliss and looking strong!
Scott Chandler: blitzenator, pure bliss, ignorance is bliss, GC stand v5
Tim Medina: pure bliss, ignorance is bliss, GC stand
wow.
Joel Zerr and I repeated Higher Ground, an amazing Mike Newton (sp?) problem. Originally called v7 by Mike, out-of-towners thought it was more like v10. Joel and I thought about v7 or 8 after a quick few-go-each send sesh. sooooo good and technical!!!
...Newton and David Outcalt did Nubian Gods V9 on the job's peak boulder.
...2 new lines on the Ronin: "Seven Samurai" V9 dyno, "Eight Samurai" V7 to the right (with a sick potential V10/11 sit.) These lines are between year of the rat and secret weapon stand. My FA's. Joel did the "seven Samurai" right after me. Both of us are working the "Ronin" project which is likely V12 or 13 and is SO F__KING COOL. I will likely take Charlie to it this week. Despite Jesse, mine and Joel's attempts for a combined 8 days, the first move still has not gone down (although we are all close.) It feels like the Shosholoza move, only harder. It's almost exactly like the thunderbird v11 jump move on the peabodies in the b-milks. ...only harder. but it goes!! Just need to try a little harder, I guess.
...Red (John Thomas) of the North did Foxy Lady for his first V8 quickly and is super close to "Secret Weapon" V10 after 5 days of effort!!! Go Red! Skipping V9! He is also close to "Pure Bliss," so he may go in order afterall.
Dave Ficter put up a super proud FA at Bliss called the "Panacea" V7. The sit will be a cool 10. The problem could kill you though. Paul Otis and I have started working the overhang near "Pure Bliss." This will be another v11 or 12 and really cool moves, steep with techy feet.
Jesse Bonin strikes again with a send of "Avoid The Wart" V9 (yes, that's the name) at the Beavers. I did this Jarrad Wycoff problem as an FA last season. It is a really cool line. Jesse's beta, as usual, was insane. Joel also did this line.
Look for the Pure Bliss video in the coming days.
Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual
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