Thursday, April 19, 2012

Motion on Monzonite

Back from Joe's and feeling fit (but a little heavy at 190 lb!) I decided to cruise down to Bishop to hook up with my buddy Jon Thompson who has been living there. Jon has been capturing some super crushers doing there thing.

Here are some of them in a preview to Jon's new film, "Motion on Monzonite."

Nice work Jake! Such a cool line. I need to get on this thing.

Jon and I had a blast. We had the Buttermilks all to ourselves. Although it was a little warm in the sun, the shade offered nice temps. After a nice warm up session the night before, we headed up to Matt Wilder's epic line: "This Side Of Paradise" V10 Highball. Really highball.

This line is so good. I rapped down it and rehearsed the 5.7 top several times for a warm up. Then I did the long move at the transition. The climb favors a taller frame and I worked out the moves fairly quickly. I tried the rig from the ground several times, but mostly jumped off. We only had two pads, and now that I have a son, blah blah blah, yeah, I pussed out.
Mad props to Matt for his SOLO (ie. by himself send, and practical free solo) first ascent of this amazing world class line.

Here's Nalle crushing:

After TSOP, I went to try my hand at "A Maze of Death" V12. I had tried this beautiful line a couple times in the past, but I could never find beta that worked for me. I finally feel I made some progress and have a method that will work for me that involves long reaches bypassing the small sharp razors. I felt the session on it was productive. I was inspired to get back on it after Tahoe legend, Jesse Bonin sent the rig a few years back after posting up there and dedicating days to this amazing Dave Graham line.

Here is a bunch of dudes making it look doable nay easy:

Finally, the last day, Jon and I were beat and decided to do some moderates. The best of the lot was a newish V7 that Matt Birch apparently added to the Peabody boulder, although something tells me that the "Go Granny Ho" variation has been done many times before. It's kind of obvious and right there.

Here is Local Lisa and Jon demonstrating:


I did this problem as well, but did the long man first move instead of messing with the shouldery underlings.

Check it:


Doing this line made me want to piece together "The Mystery" which I have tried before. It was magical to have the Buttermilks all to ourselves and a nice way to end the Bishop season and get ready for the Tahoe spring season.

Now who wants to rally a crew to finish off "This Side of Paradise?!"

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

1 comment:

What are you thinking?