Monday, October 19, 2009

Gladiator V10 First Ascent - An amazing Sierra classic!

Here's a rad series of pics taken at the recent Bear Valley competition that Siemay and I went to.  This problem, "Gladiator" is one of the most classic lines in the Sierras.  A true four-star line, Gladiator sat undone for...  billions of years!  I know of several strong climbers who tried this difficult line, but they always seemed to try it in the heat of summer.  I was lucky enough to figure out the abstruse beta and fire this line off earlier this season.  I called it Gladiator because I had to battle hard and this line is right near the road (Hwy 4) where gapers can stop and watch.  This line reminds me of "Thriller" in Camp 4, aesthetically.  The holds are cool and the movements are sublime.  Two weeks ago, I repeated the line at the competition.  Right after i sent, David Outcalt broke a small right hand sidepull off and stiffened up the grade.  I did not want to waste too much skin going for a repeat, but the hold is just as positive, and now fits 3 fingers instead of 4, and it sits 5 mm lower.  This could make the grade V11, but it felt about the same when I tried the move again.  This is the crux move.

This is the crux:  ...VERY aggressive.

Super dynamic into a gaston barn-door, but it's not over!  delicate ninja-foot moves where you can easily blow off and the foot dynos must be precise.  after this sequence comes a balancy slopey bit on bad holds, about V6 sequence.

Big gaston move, easy for taller climbers and then set up for final throw to the coolest final jug, V3ish dessert!  Amazing.
In other news, sick new lines are going up daily at the new Tahoe area.  Dave Hatchett is largely responsible for the addition of many new sick Tahoe lines!  I spent an hour repeating a sick technical V7 he put up called "Sky Grip" and love this new line.  It is an instant classic for sure.  Great job, Dave!  Inspirational!

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.


  1. there's a big empty space where I think the media is supposed to


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