Our weeklong roadtrip was rad. We took the truck camper to a sweet little zone in Southern Cali that is privately owned. It has a reputation for being a fun spot with exceptional rock but a bummer of a situation in that it is privately owned and not open to the public. This is understandable though; if you had your own bomber area, you wouldn't want the worry of liability and trash and abuse. You'd want to enjoy it with your friends, much the way the owners of this great property have. Someday, after all the lines are done and the area is done being developed, the current owners plan on somehow giving the land to climbers everywhere. These are good guys!
Above is a rad 2nd ascent I did of a sweet Chris Sharma squeeze problem. It looks and climbs way better in person, but the video gives you some idea of the climb. I thought V9, maybe harder. Across from this climb is Klem Loskot's "Crowbar" one of the best V12s I have ever seen! 4 stars. The rock is very much like Rocklands in it's texture, but it is granite. It is very featured and textured with ergernomic holds.
Siemay also sent many of the classics here. She almost did the FA of a sweet V10 that none of us could touch!
I felt strong, but after this lucky non-injury fall (look at my right heel!!!) I decided to rest and try to come back and send the next day. BTW, Big Up to CRAIG GILBERT for an awesome extendo-hand spot on this fall that saved my hide!! Thanks homie!
When we got back to camp, we heard that a storm was moving in, so we rallied with our friends Keita and Kristine and went out on a night hike/bouldering sesh! I did a cool V9 called "Thin Lizzy" 2nd try and it felt like V8 to me, although it also favored a tall bastard... You decide.
Sure enough, the next morning it was pouring... In J-tree?? Yep. It rained all morning and got super windy. Horrible conditions. So, we bailed.
Last leg of our Journey was Bishop again where we hooked up with our close friend Justin Alarcon. Justin was keen on finishing off Matt Wilder's "Haroun and the Sea of Stories" V11. Yeah, he did it first go that day! I had never even done the stand start, a classic in its own right, "The Fall Guy" V9.
Here is a crazy video of me falling after pumping out. At least I have the beta and will finish it off soon!
Anyway, It was a mega-week. Super fun and good training for 3 weeks at Joe's which is right around the corner.
We'll be in Bishop this Weekend from Thursday to Sunday. I may do some ER work down there!
Lastly, a big shout out to my friend Daniel Woods. Daniel is getting married!!!
Hope everyone is healthy and well!
Noah as usual
Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.
11-6-17: Lower Yosemite Falls
1 year ago