Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Siemay continues to destroy

Siemay sends Fly Boy V6.  She also sent "Seven Spanish Angels" V6.  Both problems have long dyno moves for their finishing moves.  Siemay is quite short at 5'1" and dynoing is not her strength, so these sends were momentous for her.

I felt sick this last week and was unable to regain my highpoint on "Fall Guy" let alone send it!  I did manage to do the likely 2nd ascent of "A Grand Day Out" which I felt was about V7.  The guidebook has it listed as V10, but for my height, this is not an appropriate grade.  Wills is going to go try it and let us know his thoughts!

**CLARIFICATION: I started "Grand Day Out" by stepping onto the boulder from the natural start off the other boulder.  When talking about it with Wills, I realized that it is supposed to start 2-3 moves lower, from the start of a v4.  I actually went back pulled on to the v4 and broke the starting hold!  ...It didn't change much, unless v4 is your limit.  now it's a small(er) crimp. The opening moves were cool enough that it made sense to start where Wills describes it in his new guide to Bishop, but it only adds a v3 opening sequence which is more balance than tugging.  I think this is a 3 star boulder problem.

UPDATE: Siemay sent "Devoted" V8 and "Fly Boy Sit" V8 this last weekend.  CRUSHING!  Going to Joe's for 3 weeks...


Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.


  1. V7? maybe if you start at the beginning it'll feel harder! Ha ha, just kidding dude. It was great hanging with you guys last week. Looking forward to seeing you both in Joe's.

  2. hahaha! yeah, i went back and the first 2 moves were v3! don't worry!


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