Friday, December 7, 2012

Crossfire Hurricane V12

I recently sent the stand start to a longstanding steep cave line at Sugar Pine one. Anyone who has been there will instantly recognize it, and many of us have been trying it for years.

Crossfire Hurricane, V12 (stand)

Unfortunately, the climb has been moist with the recent storms and secondary to its aspect. There is an ultra classic V8 sit start that definitely adds a star and must be done. I did all the moves fairly easily, but the final move (the stand start) is a V11 move in its own right (for me.) This move is RADICAL. Climbing into this crux will likely add a grade.

IF you are 6'2", good at dynoing off small crimps into a full-span overhanging iron cross, from a bad heel hook and scrunchy position, well, this may be V11 from the stand. It is a surprisingly complex move; both technical and powerful. The crux can also be done with an alternative sequence that is likely V12-13. Jesse Bonin and I worked this line together years ago and he looked really strong on it (surprise surprise,) so I am sure there is beta for shorter climbers. Honestly, though, this thing is morpho and just sick if you are not a tall gangly bastard such as myself.

Huge hat tip to Isaac Caldiero who got us re-energized on this oft tried, seemingly impossible line. Also, Clay Josephy for helping prep/restore the line this year after freak natural events briefly obstructed the line.

This line is right near the Beast (and therefore Focal Point.)

It is about a 5 minute walk from Kyle O's amazing sloper testpiece: Polar Opposites, V11.

Here are some more pictures of the amazing holds and the climb itself. The sit will be legendary and is solid 12 bangs, although all of these grade speculations need consensus:

Massive hoss to an iron cross, or delicate slopey dead points for shorter beastly types.

The crux hold: Space peanut? Side pull crimp.

Sit start with two rad gastons.

Left hand side pull for the second move. Such a cool grip!

Amazing pinch jug halfway up the steep wall.

...There is a rock behind the problem; this is looking down on the line. The rock does not get in the way, and although I have fallen off of every move, I never hit the rock. HOWEVER* On the FA of the stand, I did dab the rock on my swing. It was inconsequential and did not help, but I topped the line out anyway for a tainted FA. The line really should go from the sit anyhow, and I will definitely be back ASAP, weather permitting to wrap this thing up.

Technically, and I believe this, the pure FA has yet to be done! Get after it!

Hopefully, we can snag a vid of this despo line.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

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