Friday, December 21, 2012

Klem Time V10

Joel and I scoped a new zone it at Doyle, CA the other day and discovered a zone with about 50 new problems.

Joel got the ultimate score with his quick send of "Klem Time" V10. I pretty much did all the moves in the biting cold, but did not have the gumption to go for the link. Joel, on the other hand, manned up and got down in a big way! Dude dug DEEP! Screaming and cutting loose several times on horrible holds, rebating his way up the technical power face. Check it:

This is the position of the stand start (about V7). The sit adds 3 burly moves on bad holds with negligible feet smears and a lot of footwork. Sick!

Klem Time is definitely hard for the grade, and we contemplated slapping 11 points on it, but its nice to have solid grades... We shall see what others think. Either way it's a three star classic that pays homage to a climbing legend who has impacted our sport in such a positive way. Plus, you've really got to try hard on this one!!!

After the crux is a heady V4 top section over a so so landing. We only had two pads, but ideally, you should have 3 or more.

Here are some more pics:

One move in from the (crouch) start.

By the time you get up high, you are on oppositional holds that are mostly secure. Heady!

After this sweet line, we went and put up a nice crimper V8 with exceptional moves and enigmatic sequences. "Semi High Profile" is a must do V8! These problems and many others will eventually make it into a future Dave Hatchett Tahoe satellite guide.

There are still many problems to be done at the new spot, and of course there is the as yet unfinished "Diamond Project" which is likely in the V12 range. I can't wait to see this one. Doyle is a massive zone with mostly so so rock. The climbs are really great though, and there is so much rock that there has to be a ton of good lines... and there is!

Lastly, kudos to Jesse Bonin for taking down a really cool line in South Lake called "Solasit" ungraded. Jesse suggests V9 for this climb but is awaiting consensus. this climb is low down in the Mountain Beavers and has been waiting for a true first ascent (I had done a high start in summer at about V7, but the classic line starts on good holds down low. Nice one, Jesse! Weather and conditions permitting, This new line is high on my list!

That being said, I hear we are getting up to 6 feet of snow this weekend.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

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